No Start after replacing crank position sensor

Tiny
TURBODREMZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 254,000 MILES
About a week ago my truck died, and will restart and run for approx 5 min before throwing a P0336 Crank Position sensor code and dying again. I have since replaced the sensor with a GM AC Delco crank sensor, and now I have a no start issue. I have read that the PCM needs to go through a relearn process, but would that actually keep it from starting at all? PCM is still showing the P0336 code even after resetting the PCM. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Monday, May 12th, 2014 AT 8:30 AM

27 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Hello,

Sometimes the crankshaft sensor must be relearned here is a video of the job being done and instructions on how to do the job below.

https://youtu.be/sKo7xRWVNqY

IMPORTANT: While the learn procedure is in progress, release the throttle immediately when the engine starts to decelerate. The engine control is returned to the operator and the engine responds to throttle position after the learn procedure is complete.

1. Connect the scan tool.
2. Apply the vehicles parking brake.
3. Block the drive wheels.
4. Close the vehicles hood.
5. Place the vehicles transmission in Park (A/T) or Neutral (M/T).
6. Idle the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches 65°C (150°F).
7. Turn OFF all the accessories.
8. Apply the brakes for the duration of the procedure.

IMPORTANT: If the CKP System Variation Learn Procedure cannot be completed successfully, refer to DTC P1336 Crankshaft Position (CKP) System Variation Not Learned for additional diagnostic information.

9. Use the scan tool in order to enable the Crankshaft Position System Variation Learn Procedure.
10. Slowly accelerate the engine speed to 4,000 RPM.
11. Immediately release the throttle when the engine speed decreases.
12. Turn OFF the ignition for 15 seconds after the learn procedure is completed successfully.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Monday, May 12th, 2014 AT 9:04 AM
Tiny
MICHAELBARCO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I had this problem and had to have the relarn done cost me $130.00 FYI
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:26 PM
Tiny
KARWERNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I installed a new 5.7 L engine in this vehicle. The subburan is running but is giving me a prom code of 1345. Installed new ckp and checked prom - for ground [ black wire or"B"] This is good. Checked prom+ for voltage=11.47 volts[pink wire or"C"]. Checked pulse or yellow wire while cranking vehicle over this 4x pulse signel sending to ECM is good. Also did relearn on ckp, Still comming up with the same code. Where do I go from here?
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KARWERNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Would timing being off at the distributor give me the same code 1345?
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KARWERNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Checked dist. Rotor not moving, shaft tight, changed pick up in dist. Same code 1345. Do I need to reflash the ECM?
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Ok the code is telling us that the cam and crank sensor do not agree with each other. So what needs to be done is this. You will need a scan tool. You will plug in the scan tool and then start the truck and monitor the rpm does it go up and down twice? If not the crank sensor is bad. If the rpm does go up and down twice then you will need to check timing with the scan tool. So again plug in start engine and raise rpm to 1000 rpm and monitor the timing does it retard 2 degrees and then advance 2 degrees? Let me know what this brings and we will go from there. Also check for timing chain strech. What you do here is remove the distributor cap and turn the crank manualy till the rotor starts to move now turn it back the other way and till distributor moves not how many degrees of timing did it take the rotor to move from one direction to the next. Get back to me.
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KARWERNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
The chevy 350 or 5.7L has no play in the timming chan this is new GM crate engine. I am replacing the distributer for this came out of old engine.
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Ok let me know how it goes.
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KARWERNER
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ended up reflashing ECM, took care of problem
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Great glad to hear it. It must have been in need of the updating.
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOOGERRED
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 212,000 MILES
Vehicle was running fine and then started missing. Woild run rough after first cranked and then would clear up as it ran a little while. Finally got to where it would not crank at all. Replaced crank sensor, replaced distributor module and rotor. Checked fuel pressure. If you spray starting fluid in it it will crank for a moment. Found that the injectors are not firing, the spider is getting fire. Not sure where to go from here
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,606 POSTS
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure this need 60-66 psi to operate.
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LRWILDHEART
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 10,600 MILES
Will a cranshaft sensor that is bad cause the engine not to fire during start up and will it cause the engine to burn alot more fuel and is this something that I can change out my self.
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
A problem with the CPS will cause a no start and misfires
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
68CHEVYSSPU
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
The answer is yes

I have the 2500 with the 8.1 and when it went bad it would just shut down intermittently without warning. I never noticed any difference in fuel mileage but then it's hard to tell with an 8.1 because it's so bad anyway. It wasn't expensive but it was a hassle. It was located on the back of the engine block above the transmission. To get to it I had to loosen the left side body mounts, jack the left side up a few inches (2x4s under the running board worked nicely) and remove the left inner fender well (a few of those pesky plastic pushpin thingys pulled out from the under side). I think I remember having to remove a heat shield from the firewall too. None of that is too bad but it still was barely reachable and I scratched the back of my arm up a bit by the time I was finished. There is a electrical plug, and one bolt straight into the block. Remove the bolt and plug and the sensor pulls up out of the block. Mine was broken about half way down. The casing on the shaft was broken but the wire was intact so it came out in one piece. If it doesn't, you're screwed, but chances are you'll be okay as I don't know why the wire would break anyway. The new one slipped right in place and the truck was all happy afterward.
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCOTTSBRAT
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
99 chevy suburban V8 5.7 about 50,000 on new motor. Hi this may be long as it has been a problem for awhile and I need great help. We are a large family with 1 income and 1 family car the suburban. We had to change motor in it, the motor we used had been in fire not related to motor, we used mystery oil in it to free anything up and motor turned great so we put in, all we used was bottom motor and our stuff we already had on top. Longer story shorter after we took back out cause of pinched wires we got her running and moving, I was never so happy as I have been home bound for month. Now it will run rough like she isn't getting enough of something or is missing when I 1st start moving but once I get going like on interstate she is fine, put on machine and codes came up for #5 misfire, crank shaft censor, 1 of the o2 censors. This is what we have done:all new ac delco plugs, new plug wires, new rotory button and discribertor cap, o2 censor, crank shaft censor, fuel injector cleaner, mystery oil in the oil itself, drove it over 300 miles tring to let it work problems out. My engine light is still on and it is still running the same. Check codes yesterday and it is still showing #5 misfiring, changed that plug again and still no better. What else can it be or what should I do, I am lost the machanics friends I have are lost.I haave already spent house payment on these things and need my truck running good as I have 5 kids and just don't know were to go from here. Can't afford to keep playing guessing games.I don't have money right now to make donation but would be loving glad to in next week after payday if you can help us fix this with your advise thanks so much
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TEBEAUWHITE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
You indicated that you used your old top end(heads, manifold)so 1st check your compression on #5 cyl. If it is to low you may have adjusted the valves to tight, kinda of what it sounds like. Hope this helps
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
P0305

Check the sparkplug, compression and injector for no.5 cylinder and then get back with me-
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RUTTDADDY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
Electrical problem
1999 Chevy Suburban V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 1ook miles

how do I reset the computer, after changing the crank sensor?
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
You should not have to. Are you talking about a crankshaft variation learn procedure then you need a scan tool.
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Wednesday, March 27th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)

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