1993 Chevy S-10 re:engine jerks and stalls

Check the throttle position sensor (TPS). The coolant temperature sensor (CTS) may be bad too. Testing the CTS requires an ohm tester and a thermometer --just replacing it may solve the problem.

i replaced the throttle position sensor also i replaced engine coolant temp sensor
it runs a little better
it stoped cutting out when running at freeway speeds but it still jerks real bad in first and second gear also it is harder than hell to start on hot days especialy when you park in the sun
but it pretty much runs like i mentioned before
but it does run a little better
also the check engine light stays on all the time now
when it used to come on when the engine cut back on the freeway then went off when the engine started running again

Your check engine light is on. This means that there is a code stored in the computer. Have your computer scanned with a scan tool. Autozone or a place like that will do this for free. Let us know what the code is --and I mean the exact code (not what autozone says). It will start with a letter and followed by some numbers.

Tell me what your transmission fluid looks like. Have you ever made any adjustments to the bands?

There are no bands to adjust on this tranny -- It's a manual shift 5 speed -- LOL! tech level 5??

Sorry I didn't see manual trans. Your dog collars or the dogs themselves may be worn if you are having trouble in individual gears. A fluid change might make an enormous difference if you haven't done so in 30,000 miles; of course this can really depend on what it looks like. Try a synthetic.

Maybe I should be more blunt. IT IS NOT THE TRANSMISSION -- neither auto or manual ! Let us know your ENGINE codes are and we will go from there --- PLEASE !! BTW -- If this truck had an auto tranny (which it does NOT) The tranny would be a 4L60E or 4L80E. These trannys DO NOT have ( and never have had) adjustable drum bands.

"on hot or cold humid I E (foggy or real hot and sweaty days) the trucks jerks real bad almost bad enough to tear the rear end out in 1st and 2nd gear and barely runs smoothly in 3rd to 5th gears"

hmm wonder why he stated that....

definatly not a transmission problem huh....

he has more than one problem in his drivetrain....

Well, a SES code will tell us --won't it.

[quote:a5a181472b="amajorcrushertoo"]i replaced the throttle position sensor also i replaced engine coolant temp sensor
it runs a little better
it stoped cutting out when running at freeway speeds but it still jerks real bad in first and second gear also it is harder than hell to start on hot days especialy when you park in the sun
but it pretty much runs like i mentioned before
but it does run a little better
also the check engine light stays on all the time now
when it used to come on when the engine cut back on the freeway then went off when the engine started running again[/quote:a5a181472b]

sorry for procratinating on reading e-mail
i thought i would get an auto update that would allert me

i will get or rent a machine to find the code for the check engine light asap
it still jerks on the freeway when you keep the throttle constant i think its the fuel pressure is fluctuation
also here is a list of parts i have changed
fuel filter
fuel pump
spark plugs and wires
thermo stat
engine coolant sensor
throttle position sensor
axel oil (i checked the rear axel for missing teeth on the gears because it makes a big clank all the time but the teeth looked fine)
i also noticed that the radiatior had been replaced and the air induction (the thing that connects to the air filter and directs air from the grill to the air filter is missing could that have something with it vapor locking on hot days it runs good on cold days

i think i know what it is
i keep adjusting the timeing and it works good for a few days then goes back to running poorly
it has to be the auto timeing or something is wrong with the ECU
do you have a list of all the sensors that send signals to the ECU to advance or retard the timeing
i haven't figured out why the computer won't give a code on the check engine light either

yea it has to be the automatic timeing i can adjust the timeing and it runs better for a few days or hours sometimes then it the timeing get out of whack and it backfires and stops running unless you punp the gas pedal repeadatly especialy on hot days
what are the part that controll the auto timeing