1984 Chevy Corvette horns not working

Hello, it looks like there is a fuse also, 15A, labeled under Ctsy/Clk. Check that and see. Also, from the other attached pics make sure you have the correct relay. Since the horn does work with 12v right from the battery, we know that is good. Check this and let us know.

I would take a test light and follow the horn button wire and track it down and see where the power is being lost. First are you getting power to the horn relay? The way a relay works it it has continuous power and switched power the horn button provides the switched power. Some where in the circuit the power it being lost. So use your test light and check for power at the relay first and go from there.

Yes on wire has constant power need to know it that power is there.

So use a test light or voltmeter and check all the wires at the ralay and make sure one has power when you push the horn button. Let me know what you find ok.

Here is what you are looking for one wire has power when you push the horn button.

Hello James
We apologize for not providing the answers you need. Let's go over what we have looked at again, plus I was able to find another wiring diagram.
You don't have any horn when you press at the steering wheel. According to the wiring diagram you have a low and a high pitch horn.
You said when you run a wire from the battery to the horns, they work. That means the horns are good.
You will not have current to the ends of the horn wire unless the horn is pressed inside the car. It makes contact there, goes through the relay to the horn. There is a hot circuit from the fuse through the relay, to the steering wheel and the horn switch completes it back to the relay to the horns.
If it were me, I would take an ohm meter, remove the fuse, #40 I believe it was, and check the fuse for continuity. If that is good then put it back. Sometimes a fuse can look okay, but not be. I think it is okay since the other items in the circuit are working. But let's be safe and check it. Next, it looks like the pink wire with a white tracer is hot at all times to the relay from that fuse. Pull the relay and make sure it is hot. The positive end of the DC volt meter will go to that wire and put the black ground wire on a metal part of the car. It should read 12volts.
As for the horn switch in the steering wheel, it appears that the black wire going there is hot. If possible send a pic of the steering wheel horn area if you are not sure how it works there. I don't have a diagram showing me that. If you are able to jump the switch right there and close it, the circuit should close and the horn work. That would mean it is not working at the relay.
As for the relay area. I don't have a diagram of the relay itself. Still looking. Having some computer problems so will continue to look. However, if it were me I would try this. I would remove the relay. You know it is hot from the pink/white tracer and the hot to the horn is dark green. If it were me I would take a wire and jump it from the pink/white tracer right to the dark green. The problem is I am not sure if the relay also acts as a ground. Now if the horn works, then you know it is either the relay or the horn switch at the steering wheel. If you got 12 volts at the relay from the steering wheel when you press the horn, then you know it is the relay. If you press the horn and do not get 12v at the relay, that black wire, then you know it's the horn switch.
Now PLEASE understand. I don't want to be responsible for shorting out anything on your car. So if you do this, please accept the responsibility. I am telling you what I would do on my vehicle that I was able to see, tough, feel and look at and be responsible for. We are not there to see what it looks like etc. I will continue to look for the info on the relay. That should tell us what's hot etc if I can find it.
Do the checks that are safe for now, testing voltage at the different locations etc unless you want to try that last one. Did you ever replace the relay with a dealer one since the prongs were different?
Okay, with the pic- hope this is better of what you need. Let us know what all you did from this and if this helps so we know where to go from here.
Again, we apologize for not providing a complete answer to your satisfaction. It was not meant that way. Please understand we deal with thousands of people with numerous levels of experience. It is really hard not to offend someone. Some that have lots of knowledge may get offended if we provide too much and they take it as though we don't think they have any knowledge. The same the other way, not enough causes problems. Also, some are stronger in say, electrical areas but not in the mechanical side. So when we go into detail in one area that offends, but not in the other they need more.
Thanks James, let us know what you find.

Hello James

Thats great it is working. One of the rules of troubleshooting is to always start with the first step....fuses depending on the problem of course and work your way from there. They are hard to see sometimes and can blow and you can not see it. For the cost, as you did, a swap is great. If you have an Ohm meter, a quick check to both ends will tell you also.
You are very welcome. We thank you for using 2carpros.
Have a great day and enjoy driving that corvette around!

Hello James

You are very welcome. This time it was simple. Sometimes no. Rookie. . ...no. . ..you did just fine.

I am not sure what type of meter you have, but mine when checking continuity I can select where it has an audible tone. That way as I check things I can keep my eyes on what I am doing and when it is good, I hear a tone. One, you never have power on when doing this. I gave you several pics to show you what I mean. Pic 1 I select the audible tone for continuity checks. Pic 2, I put my test leads together and I should hear a tone. Pic 3, when I put a lead on each end of the fuse, if the fuse is good, I will hear a tone. If I do not hear a tone, fuse is broken since the current can not move from one test lead, through the fuse to the other test lead.

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