Won't start if engine is warm?

pressure cap and hoses are always pattern failure items in a cooling sys.....and items like these are not too much money ...i seriously doubt they were rippin u off... maybe just not enuff time for then to catch the cooling sys acting up....u need to tell me ur over heating condition is occuring at all speed or just stop & go driving...let me know and i'll follow up... msg me back

You seem adamant that the car is really not overheating. What is your basis for that? How much did the neck replacement cost? Are you losing coolant? The system is very simple. How about when you did the hoses, etc. did you basically burp the system? You need to purge the air from the system. There is a bleeder on the top near the head where the top hose connects. Engine warm and running, open it slowly and let out the air or steam. Do this several times.

Thelast time the car overheated it was in this situation- 25mph up to 40mph up to 55mph down to 45mph down to 35mph. There was not a whole lot of stop and go but a little bit.

My basis for saying the car is not overheating is no smoke, no funny noises etc. the only thing indicating overheating is the water temp needle. I am not loosing coolant. Getting the radiator cleaned and the new neck was a total cost of $65. I did open up the bleeder bolt on top of the engine. I did forget to check the fluid after I ran the car (oops!) But after reading other forums I asked my dad to check the level because it is over at his house at the moment.

For the whole radiator service that they were going to do- they were going to charge me a total of $133 rounding + $7 for clamps.

Stat-did they check that out-could be the idiot gauge out of calibration

That could be a few different things. First need to have the ECM scanned to see what the code/codes are. That will give us an idea of what direction to head in. Autozone will scan it for free.

Autozone only scans ODBII. Another parts store only scans ODBII also. Shorted diagnostic socket to ground and got a code twelve, which is normal. Manual said if it had other codes it would list it after the code 12 flashed 3 times. It only flashes code 12. Car almost didn't start today after work. Runs great down the road. I need some ideas. I did change all my spark plugs. They did need it. I also installed a new Oxygen sensor. Manual Said it should be changed evey 30,000 miles.

Well not much response on this list. Vehicle is now dying while driving. It died driving home from a friends with all my kids in the car. I had a spare spark plug. I plugged it into a plug wire and had my daughter crank while I watched the spark. Engine started up but spark was yellow. Tried another with same results. Pretty sure my spark module is finished. It has a DIS . If it was just a coil pack it should still spark on the other four cylinders. The module is about $92.00. The spark should be blue right? I really feel I wasted the $10.00 donation. THe only response I get is have my ecm scanned at Autozone?

try the coils if the spark is weak, not the module. Sorry you feel your money was wasted, I know how frustrating car problems are, what you dont realize is how difficult some are to diagnose when we actually have the car to test, not doing it by PM with whatever input we can get from the vehicles owner, who most of the time doesnt have the correct equipment for a decent diagnosis in the first place (no fault of their own)

All three coils? They're about 30 bucks a piece. The car totally quit when I was going about 30 miles per hour. I can't see all 3 coils going out at once. After I coasted to a stop I put the jumper in the diagnostic slot and all I got was the #12 code with none listed after it. I took out jumper. It restarted immediatly when I had my daughter turn it over so I could see spark. We took off again and it died again a block later.It restarted and I was able to get us the rest of the way home. I wish I had access to equipment to diagnose the problem. But I can hardly afford to buy the parts to fix the problem. Can also not afford to buy parts I don't need either though! :-) I am going to pull the coil/module pack off this morning and test coils with my fluke. Check and see if the wiring to it is ok. I have to pull cooling fan off. Maybe I'll be able to see something. The module controls the ground for the primary side of the coil. If I am reading the diagram right. If the module is starting to have a problem couldn't it cause a weak or no spark condition? When I was trying start it Friday after work it wouldn't even run on ether. After intermittently trying for a half hour it started and ran. It ran good until I parked it. If I had the money I would replace the coils and the module. Thanks for getting back to me. I am in the middle of filing bankruptcy due to divorce and child support issues. This car is my only transportation. So I am a little stressed with my problem.

I removed coil pack with spark module. I tested coils and one is bad. Secondary coil has an open. From post to post it has infinite resistance. It is the one for cylinders 2 & 5. Cylinders 4 & 6 were the ones I checked for spark. I think I am going to change all 3 coil packs and the module. I believe it is the original. It does have 193,000 + miles on it. It is rather a pain to get on and off.

Those did have problems, probably due mostly to heat from where they are mounted

Changed spark module and all 3 coil packs and so far so good.

fingers are crossed

Just replaced my intake manifold gasket and resealed end gaps with silicone. Oil was leaking down spark sensor harness. Worked all day on it. Broke a few plastic vacuum lines. Fixed using rubber vacuum line. Also found a broken detent cable housing. Someone had marine texed it. I had to do a temp fix. (maybe permament) using 5 minute epoxy. Still shifts kind of hard into O.D..
Might have to buy new detent cable. Been starting and running every time. Figured I had better fix oil leak. Old intake gasket appeared to have been leaking vaccum also. 194,000 and still going!