Mechanics

INTERMITTANT ENGINE STALL OR NOT STARTING

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Hi Bruce,
Even though I have a 1990 Acura Integra, everthing falls into the 1991 scheme. I looked a while for the E.C.U. before I relized that.

The one L.E.D. light for code output gave slow (1 sec.) flashes and also faster (1/2 sec.) flashes.
For detail instructions on how to read the light flashes see link below.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/92/b5/0900823d801a92b5.jsp

The "L" stands for the long flash, the "S" stands for the short flashes and the "..." stands for for one second per period.
My error code was (L...SSSSSS...LLLLSSS...)
Please tell me if you concide with my read of
Code 1- Oxygen Sensor
Code 6-Coolant Temperatue(TW)
Code 43-Fuel Supply System
I found a way to test the coolant sensor to determine if it is a broken wire or bad sensor.

I will replace the Oxygen sensor.

I have found that you can unplug the connection to the fuel pump and check voltage from the Yellow wire to ground to find if the pump is being energized.

I replaced about ten rotten vaccum lines which didn't solve this problem but needed to be done.

I have been convinced to remove the Throttle Body for cleaning, but have to wait untill tomorrow for a new gasket.
I'll post the results as soon as I can.
Avatar
Doug29681
December 15, 2006.



1990 Acura Integra RS with @ 174,000 miles. At first the car would not restart when hot. Coil was replaced and problem continued. Now sometime will not start hot or cold. Factory rebuilt distributor was tried and problem continued.
When car will not start the spark on every cylinder is blue and clean.
When the car runs, it runs well - great power and even when it stalls there is no sputtering - it just stops.
Other forums mention Coolant Sensors and Igniter as a possible fix.
Others still suggest a fuel pressure check at the injector rail while problem exists.
I would have to buy the fuel pessure gauge and if low then a fuel pump. Are there any alternative checks for fuel pumps?

Tiny
Doug29681
Dec 12, 2006.
Your problem could be fuel related but I doubt it is. Atleast a pressure issue. If the pressure should drop down significantly the car would faulter and die. Your problem is electrical in nature. Again it could be the sensors that are mentioned. I would not suggest starting to swap out parts. That is exactly what the shop will do and that is no big deal to me but I bet it would be to your pocket book. How about the check engine light, does it come on and has the system codes been reviewed?

Bruce Hunt
Dec 12, 2006.
1990 Acura Integra RS with @ 175,000 miles.
No Check Engine light during this problem.
The car is stranded now so I will have to obtain a loaner to read the codes.
Is the PGM-FI system a possible cause? My son's high school buddies all say that the throttle body assembly needs to be cleaned as carbon build up interfers with sensors in that area. With this auto being a manual trans. Will there be an EGR at that area?

Tiny
Doug29681
Dec 12, 2006.
I highly doubt it. The EGR valve will be located on the intake manifold.

That is true about carbon build up, but let's see what the codes are. Now I have not searched for this in a while, but there is a way to read the PGM-F1 codes. I did some searching on the web and this is what I found. I think there is more out there but I couldn't pull it off.

The ECU has a window with 4 LEDS inside. These LEDS are labelled 8, 4, 2 & 1 and you get the code number by adding the numbers up for any that are lit. As well as the numbered lights, the City has a PGM-F1 lamp (in the dash) which may also be lit.

To get the code you need to run the engine and then check the lights BEFORE turning off the ignition.

I believe there is a jumper that can be applied to a terminal which is a loose wire under the dash. Jumpering this terminal will activate the computer and read out the codes in a series of flashing lights.

Code 0: PGM-F1 lit (no other lights up) Control unit failure, short circuit in combination meter. Engine won't start.

Code 1: Shorted or faulty O2 sensor

Code 3: (lights 2 & 1 lit) MAP sensor - disconnected or open / shorted MAP sensor wiring. Poor pick up, engine tends to stall.

Code 5: (lights 4 & 1 lit) Disconnected MAP sensor vacuum line

Code 6: (lights 4 & 2 lit) TW sensor faulty / disconnected / open circuit - Difficult to start when cold

Code 7: (lights 4, 2 & 1 lit) - Throttle sensor - disconnected / open circuit (or incorrectly set when throttle is shut we found when we rebuilt throttle body! Output needs to be 0.48 - 0.52V - you need a high impedance DVM to measure) Poor pick up if not correct.

Code 8: (light 8 lit) TDC sensor - open / shorted wiring or disconnected - irregular idle speed, poor pick up

Code 9: (lights 8 & 1 lit) CYL sensor

PGM-F1 lit and Code 10: (lights 8 & 2) TA sensor - irregular idle when cold

PGM F1 and Code 11: (lights 8, 2 & 1 lit) - IMA sensor (influences mixture richness)

PGM-F1 & Code 13: - in CRX is the PA sensor. I don't believe the City has one - maybe MAP2?

Bruce Hunt
Dec 12, 2006.
Hi Bruce,
Even though I have a 1990 Acura Integra, everthing falls into the 1991 scheme. I looked a while for the E.C.U. Before I relized that.

The one L.E.D. Light for code output gave slow (1 sec.) Flashes and also faster (1/2 sec.) Flashes.

The "L" stands for the long flash, the "S" stands for the short flashes and the "." Stands for for one second per period.
My error code was (L. SSSSSS. LLLLSSS.)
Please tell me if you concide with my read of
Code 1- Oxygen Sensor
Code 6-Coolant Temperatue(TW)
Code 43-Fuel Supply System
I found a way to test the coolant sensor to determine if it is a broken wire or bad sensor.

I will replace the Oxygen sensor.

I have found that you can unplug the connection to the fuel pump and check voltage from the Yellow wire to ground to find if the pump is being energized.

I replaced about ten rotten vaccum lines which didn't solve this problem but needed to be done.

I have been convinced to remove the Throttle Body for cleaning, but have to wait untill tomorrow for a new gasket.
I'll post the results as soon as I can.

Tiny
Doug29681
Dec 15, 2006.
I found during testing the Coolant Sensor, that it would not react properly and give a max temp reading on the dash gauge.
So I moved to the fuel pump and found that there were two yellow wires. With ignition on one wire gave 6.5 volts and the other yellow zero. When I jumpered the first one and a ground it was discovered that it was the return from the sending unit and the fuel tank was half full, thus 6.5 volts.
All this means no power to the fuel pump.
After 30~40 min I got the Main Relay out and tested it according to a Haynes manual and found all three curcuits within the relay were bad. I opened up the relay and man did it smell of burned curcuits.
Now everywhere I check for a new Main Relay give me a RZ-0063 for replacement while the one that I removed was a RZ-0067 Mitsuba.

I don't know where to find a cross reference chart to see if this is O.K. I guess I'll call the dealership to ask about that

Tiny
Doug29681
Dec 16, 2006.
Installed a Mitsuba RZ-0063 relay and turned the key on and off. I could now hear the fuel pump pressurizing the lines. It started and ran great. I had to follow a precedure to recalibrate the fuel position sensor because I had removed and cleaned the throttle body.
Car runs great now and I really appreciate all the help you gave Bruce. Things are tough for me right now at Christmas and my job of 15 years is ending with a layoff at the end of January. You guys have helped me save money that I didn't have.
I will remember and repay you guys --- I owe you one!
Thanks again and Merry Christmas

Tiny
Doug29681
Dec 22, 2006.
Merry Christmas back to you. You do pretty well with the testing and seem very diligent at getting to the bottom of the problem. Good luck with the job hunt and I hope your 2007 is spectaculark!

Bruce Hunt
Dec 22, 2006.