Code P0449

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You can do the voltage test etc like it says in the trouble tree I know you cant command the veny solenoid like it says unless you have a tech2 scan tool with the correct software. Most likely its not bad new parts its just something else wrong. Its gong to be the wiring terminal tightnes corrosion or the module. If you actual do the steps that you can do without using the scan tool that would most likely find your problem. You say the wire looks good but wire can be bad under the insulation broken copper strands corrossion etc. Also loose open terminal tightness. You can test the new parts with a ohms test if they list the values there supposed to be in the service manual. They have gotten away from that though as you can see by the trouble tree they just have you check everything till you narrow down to the failed part. So if you unable to follow my and the service manual instructiins then your just going to have to take it in to be reapaired.
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Saturday, May 26th, 2012 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
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Thank you very much. I am going to take my time and do the test as you mentioned. Hopefully I will figure out what is the problem there.
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Sunday, May 27th, 2012 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
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Keep me posted I will help you out with any questions etc.
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Sunday, May 27th, 2012 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
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Thanks, I checked the voltage on the wires that goes into the "EVAP canister vent solenoid valve". The readings are as following:
Ignition key ON (engine running): red wire: 0.05 Volt, white wire: 0.38 volt
Ignition key OFF: red wire: 0.05 Volt, white wire: 0.38 volt

Both readings were the same. I guess there is brake somewhere, but where? I have no idea. The wires are inside a black hoes which goes up inside the body and is not traceable. Please let me know what is the next step or place to look?
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Sunday, May 27th, 2012 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
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Key on engine off you should have battery voltage to the A terminal at the vent solenoid connector whats the reading you have?
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Monday, May 28th, 2012 AT 12:42 AM
Tiny
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I am not sure what "A Terminal" is but I did the reading again with the key on engine off and result was the same:
red wire: 0.05 Volt, white wire: 0.38 volt measured on the vent solenoid connectors (male)head
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Monday, May 28th, 2012 AT 1:02 AM
Tiny
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Dear saturntech9, I appreciated if you could tell me whether you can help me further?
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Friday, June 1st, 2012 AT 3:59 AM
Tiny
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The orange wire should have power key in the run position of it doesnt look in the under hood fuse box. See if the prem aud fuse has power to both sides of it. That feeds power to the vent solenoid.
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Friday, June 1st, 2012 AT 5:01 AM
Tiny
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Thanks, I have attached an image of the fuse box and the description of the fuses under the hood. Could you point out which fuse I need to check?
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Friday, June 1st, 2012 AT 4:48 PM
Tiny
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The wire diagram I was looking at was wrong it appears. You want to check the emiss fuse for power to both sides with the key in the run position. It looks like the third fuse down in the diagram.
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Friday, June 1st, 2012 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
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The 10A Emission Fuse seems OK. It reads 12.13 volt in both side. The only broken fuse in the box is the 20A Sunroof (My car does not have sunroof). So what should I check next?
Thanks
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Friday, June 1st, 2012 AT 11:22 PM
Tiny
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Now you have to figure out why theres power at the fuae but not at the connector.I would start at the bottom of the fuse box that wire splits off the fuse one wire goes straight to the vent solenoid.
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Saturday, June 2nd, 2012 AT 12:09 AM
Tiny
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I tried to find the shortage but wasn't successful. I brought the car to GM dealer today. It took them three hours to spot the shortage and fix it. It was a corroded wire (the orange wire) inside wiring harness at right rear shock area.
Thanks again for your help I learned a lot about fixing this kind of problems.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2012 AT 2:05 AM
Tiny
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Your welcome glad to hear you got it fixed.
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Tuesday, June 26th, 2012 AT 4:04 AM

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