Mechanics

HEADLIGHT WON'T WORK DESPITE CHANING BULB

2005 Volvo S60 • 5 cylinder AWD Automatic • 77 miles

HELP headlight issue Volvo s60 2005 - Replaced bulb still won't work.

The light comes on and quickly goes right off. I have checked the fuses and they are fine. I even swapped them. It is occuring on the passenger side.

Thanks
Joe
Avatar
Kilmerj
January 19, 2011.




Is this a regular hologen bulb or bi-xenon?


JIS001
Jan 19, 2011.
It is a regular halogen


Tiny
Kilmerj
Jan 19, 2011.
Also it is an H11 bulb not an H7. So it has a twist in connector vs. The clip in that is stated in the owners manual.


Tiny
Kilmerj
Jan 19, 2011.
This is also occurin. If I follow this sequence the light will come on.
1. Unplug the harness - shown in the picture
2. Start the car
3. Count 15 seconds
4. Plug the harness in

The headlight works but it it still shows bulb failure on the dashboard warning light.


Tiny
Kilmerj
Jan 19, 2011.
Here are some other photos.


Tiny
Kilmerj
Jan 19, 2011.
Can you take a picture of the front whith the lights on so I can see what type of headlight assembly you have? I am looking at my wiring diagram and see you do have bi-xenon? The bi-xenon circuit is on pin #5 and see pin #5 on your connector is present? So pin#3 would be your low beam. Now there looks like there is an option for daytime running lights so during the day that light comes on and at night it should switch over to bi-exenon? For now check fuse #20 in the engine compartment. When the light stops woring, with a test light verify that you have power going through on both sides of the fuse. If you do, remove the verify and visually inspect it. If it is burnt just a little it can be causing an open circuit as soon as it gets hot but just barely making contact that the test light may pick up as being ok. If that is ok, remove the sound proof panel under the dash on the drivers side and check fuse #23 as well. Also while under there, check above and you will see the central electronic module. Make sure there is no sighns of water intrusion or water marks around or near the connections. If you do then that can cause evem more problems? Let me know what you find and post the picture of the right side headlight assembly with the lights on and a picture of the left side to have something to compare please.


JIS001
Jan 19, 2011.
I have the pictures attached. Pretty sure they are not bi-xenon
Are you saying the pin positions are in this harness I have pictured? I should look at #3 for the low beam with my voltmeter?

I checked #20 fuse. It has 11.9v - I haven't been under the dash yet. Thanks for your help!
AD


Tiny
Kilmerj
Jan 20, 2011.
Just a note the left light is not working it is just the parking light.


Tiny
Kilmerj
Jan 20, 2011.
On the picture it does look like a regular hologan bulb. Also I read your connector backwards so I took a closer look and see pin #5 is missing. I attached a wiring diagram so I hope it comes out clear? Component 10/2 is the right side headlight assembly. Above it you will see component 54/23 which is the connector you took a picture of. A2 on the connector for 10/32 is the power to the dip beam (low beam) which comes from connector 54/23 pin #3 which is a blue with yellow strip wire. With an ohm meter measure that wires resistance from pin #3 to pin A2. Set your ohm meter to its lowet scale. Normal you should see around 0.5 ohms to about 0.7 ohms. If that is ok component 4/56 is the central electronic module which you should be looking for any water damage. There are a bunch of different connectors on here and there is "A connector" "B connector" "C connector" etc. B connector pin #4 you should measure the circuit from there to you connector 54/23 pin #3 for the same resistance. F23 is actually the fuse for the high beam which if you follow the diagram it ends at pin # A1 "high beam connector" You can plug connector 54/23 and take a circuit measurement from connector "B" pin #4 all the way to the low beam connector pin # A2 and take a total resistance measurement as well to see what you get as well. I am going to be honest here, that CEM is hard to access and the letters are very hard to see since you actually need to unplug the harness and look inside for the letter? Also the pin numbers are not visible unless you actually now where to look at? If the fault goes away and the light comes back on when you unplug connector 54/23 then your fault may lie in the headlight assembly? How does the bulb connector look? Is it starting to melt? The harness at 54/23, has it being rubbing near the serpentine belt? Also measure your circuit from pin #10 on 54/23 to chassis ground as well. There should be resistance there also. Check for a short from pin #3 to pin #10 and check for resistance from pin #3 to chassis ground. There should be a reading of infinity there. If all that is ok then you could have an issue with the CEM. If you need some guidance for the measurements you can email me at jsolis001@yahoo. Com and you can leave me a contact number or I can email you back my cell number? I am in Los Angeles, Ca.


JIS001
Jan 20, 2011.
Wow great info! Do you know anything about a shunt trip resistor that plugs into the cem. I read in a forum the xeon lights have them and they sense
ohms upon start up to allow the light to function.

Thanks
Joe


Tiny
Kilmerj
Jan 20, 2011.

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