Mechanics

CENTER CONSOLE (RADIO/AC-FAN CONTROLS) ARE DEAD, AS WELL AS AUTOMATIC WINDOWS AND SPEEDOMETER

2004 Toyota 4Runner • 165 miles

My AC stopped working this past week, so my Dad and I tried to troubleshoot yesterday. The compressor wasn't kicking in so I first checked the fuses(good). We then decided to check the refrigerant level but upon starting my truck, the center console(Radio/AC Fan Controls) were all dead? My automatic windows are also dead as well as my speedometer. The instruments on each side of the speedometer(gas/mileage) are working though, just FYI.

In troubleshooting since:

* I replaced the battery as it was found to be defective.

* I physically inspected each fuse under the hood and dash twice. I then checked continuity with a meter. All fuses are good.

* I purchased a new Relay "magnetic clutch relay" (90987-02022) and swapped it out with every like-kind. Some posts suggested this could be an issue due to the original noted part # being a known defect. This made no difference either.

The Radio/AC-Fan Controls/Auto Windows/Speedometer all remain dead.

Any suggestions?
Avatar
Ralph III
October 8, 2012.



As per your request and with pics: 1) I checked the #7 terminal and it does have power all the time. This is the large "Red" wire I was referring to in my last post. It isn't blue/orange as you referenced?

2) I then turned the ignition switch on and checked the #11 terninal. This is a small solid Black wire. No power showed but it does show to be grounded(continuity with chasis).

NOTE: This is a solid black wire and not black/red as you referenced? There is a Red/black wire in the #13 terminal however which I also tested. It shows 1 amp with the ignition switch turned on.

Ralph


Tiny
Ralph III
Oct 8, 2012.
Yes, terminal #11 is a black wire between a blue and green wire as you are referencing. It shows no power however. It only reads ground. I re-oriented the pics in my last post to show this better.


Tiny
Ralph III
Oct 8, 2012.
At the door the wire should be solid Black. The conneector at door pillar would be Red/Black. You do not have battery voltage to this wire which has its power source from the ECU-IG fuse in underdash fuse box. Ensure this fuse is good.


KHLow2008
Oct 8, 2012.
Just so we are on the same page as I don't know what you mean by "door pillar".

1) I'm testing the white "disconnect" wiring harness at the drivers door. This "disconnect" is hidden behind the door panel and attaches to the underside of the window switch(es) module, as you control the windows. It supplies power to the window switches, etc.

2) The only power reading I get on the "disconnect" is the #7 terminal which is a large Red wire @ 12volts. I haven't tested some of the smaller wires/slots as my probe is almost to big to get into those. I did test the #11 terminal though, see "3".

3) I do not get any power readings on the #11 terminal, which is a smaller solid Black wire and positioned between a Blue and Green wire.

NOTE: there is a larger Black wire(#18 I think) but nothing there either. I provided some good closeups of these wires for you.

4)The fuse is good under the dash, designated ECU-IG. There however is no power reading off of it? Several of the fuses show 12volt power on each leg (while still seated) whereas several show nothing?


Tiny
Ralph III
Oct 8, 2012.
Door pillar means the wireharness from the door that goes into the cabin. At kick panel to be more precise there would be a connector for this harness and that is where the color would change. Testing at switch connector is finished for now.

Have you checked the fuse I mentioned? You need to test both sides of fuse for battery voltage with igntion switch turned on.


KHLow2008
Oct 8, 2012.
Yes, I tested both sides of the fuse(s)for battery voltage with ignition turned on.

The ECU-IG shows no power at all. There are several other fuses under the dash that show no power either(either leg).

I've also tested all the fuses under the hood. Each one showed 12 volts(both legs) with exception of one row in the middle(Heater #2, Airsus, Seat Heater, Defog, Mir Heater). I could never read power to those.

Ralph


Tiny
Ralph III
Oct 8, 2012.
ECU-IG power source is from ignition switch. At ignition switch test the White/Blue wire for battery voltage with ignition off.

If voltage is available, turn ignition switch on and test Blue/Yellow wire for battery voltage.


KHLow2008
Oct 8, 2012.
I removed the bottom of the dash to get at the ignition switch; however, I do not see a white/blue wire nor a blue/yellow wire?

There is a large white wiring harness "disconnect" at the back of the ignition switch. There is also a small black "disconnect" which attaches on the bottom of the ignition switch. I've provided photos of each.

There is another large "disconnect" at the back/top but I'm not sure if it serves the switch and as there are only two blue wires running to it?

1) Which wires do you want me to test in photos?
2) Meanwhile, I have both driver side windows stuck in the down position. Is there any way I can short it to get those to raise up?

Ralph


Tiny
Ralph III
Oct 8, 2012.
The first pic is the one but color seems to be different and there should only be 7 wires used according to my schematics.

With ignition OFF, let me know how many wires have battery voltage, there should be 2.

To close the windows, get a fused 10 A wire, attach to the Black wire at window master switch and close the windows.


KHLow2008
Oct 8, 2012.
There are 8 wires with only the White wire showing any battery voltage, with ingnition turned "off". I removed it from the ignition harness in order to test this.

I provided some closeup pics as well as one showing ignition/wiring disconnect/wiring "female" harness.

Ralph


Tiny
Ralph III
Oct 8, 2012.
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