2003 Toyota Sienna Repair Question
Toyota Sienna Ticking Problem
When one locks up, loosen the steel lines at the master cylinder, or open that caliper's bleeder screw to see where the trapped brake fluid will release from.
17,290 answers provided
Thank you for the advice/feedback I Greatly Appreciate It... I'm gonna work on it tomorrow afternoon, if it's bleeding what other part do I need to purchase? Marveli
You need to perform tests before buying anything. It could be the calipers that are sticking, hoses or even the ABS system.
How would I determine if the ABS are faulty? Is it something I can check/repair myself, or taking it to the Toyota Dealership would be the only solution? - I'm already $200.00 into this repair, and I can't afford to pay more... Thx Marveli
I'm going on the assumption the calipers aren't the problem because they were replaced. That leaves trapped brake fluid that can't release back to the reservoir. Rather than type the solutions to the multitude of possibilities, it's easier to start at the master cylinder and work your way down to the calipers, opening the hydraulic system until you find where the fluid will release. Once we know that we can determine the cause and solution.
17,290 answers provided
When does the brake sticks?
Did you try jacking up vehicle ad testing each individual wheel to see if any is tight?
Was anything done prior to this occurring?
Was the brake caliper slider bolts and piston checked for sticking?
Was the brake caliper slider bolts and piston checked for sticking? Yes, they were checked for rust, and these are New Calipers...
When does the break stick?? Ass Soon As the pads, calibers, break lines were installed, I pumped the, breaks, put it in reverse and drove around the block. By the time I got back the two front breaks wereVERY VERY tight/sticking..
Did you try jacking up the vehicle and test each individual wheel to see if any were tight?? Yes I did, the tires didn't move (stuck).. While the vehicle was up I took the wheels/parts off again and put them back together again, and put it in drive. With No Gas on the pedal, The Wheels Would Turn Then Stop Turn Then Stop.. Then I would step on the gas and they would turn But as soon as I would leave it idle they would stop(like pressing the breaks )..
Was anything done prior to this occurr? Just the oil/filter/air-filter change on the same day...
The problem is either from the ABS or master cylinder.
Check the brake pedal and booster pushrod clearance. Gently shake the brake pedal and note if there are any little free play (abut 2mm) .
What was the initial reason for doing this repair was what I meant when asking what was done prior to this.
Do you have any warning indicators showing?