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2000 LINCOLN TOWN CAR
180,000 MILES
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I have a 2000 town car signature series. Having issues with it overheating. Hard to crank and stay running at first, but after I drive for a few minutes then cut it off, I have no problems recranking. I will throw out some key issues. Any suggestions will be appreciated. (very much)

-Purchased a week ago n had no problems driving it from new Orleans Louisiana to brookhaven Missouri. owner was towing company n said it sat up 5 months.
-Ball joint was broke, so had to reset fuel pump switch.
-New alternator and serpentine belt, battery, thermostat.
-EATC self diagnostics test returns no dtc's.
-Radiator fan does not kick on in low or high, with or without heater or A/C on.
-Jump wire connected from radiator fan to battery proves fan motor is okay.
-Checked 4 fuses/relays, locations: 50 amp maxi fuse #3 (high speed cooling fan) and #26 which is low speed cooling fan 30 amp in main fuse box under hood . Both were blown so I replaced them. And 2 big relays in small box in between breather and main box, for low and high speed. Swapped relays around and horn still blew so relays are okay.
-Not showing power with test light to 2 15 amp mini fuses in main fuse box under hood, locations #20 (fuel injectors) & #21 (heated o2 sensors, transmission solenoid, evap canister vent solenoid, EGR vacuum regulator, evap vapor management valve) . Replaced both with new fuses, test light still wont come on. Is this normal or possibly an electrical issue? 
-Hoses from radiator n water reservoir have good pressure, so I don't think it is water pump.
-Have not seen any leaking hoses.
-Thinking a sensor could be the cause (coolant), but which one and how do I test it?
-Any ideas/suggestions? I have both owners manual and repair guide book, but I am female and am not a mechanic. Lol. So please be user friendly. :)

By the way, flushed radiator. Still overheats, even just idling. Check engine light is on.
Mar 28, 2013 at 11:13 PM
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ASEMASTER6371
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I would start by checking the fusible links because that what sounds like is wrong. THis is a common failure.
Mar 28, 2013 at 11:32 PM
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ASHLEYPOOLE1
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Like I stated above, with jump wire ran from fan to battery it works!
Mar 29, 2013 at 12:24 AM
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ASEMASTER6371
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do you have a low amp probe? if those fuses blew, i am concerned on how much amperage the motor is pulling.

Roy
Mar 29, 2013 at 12:37 AM
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ASHLEYPOOLE1
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I do not have one, all I have is a test light. There is nothing wrong with the motor. It runs like new. What does the motor have anything to do with the question I asked? I have not drove around after it started overheating for fear I might mess the motor up. There is no water in oil if you are thinking cracked head. I checked to be on the safe side.


Could sensors be the culprit?
Mar 29, 2013 at 1:07 AM
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CADIEMAN
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the fans should turn on high-speed when you turned the air on. Check for a fan control module. Are there the fuses still blowing?
Mar 29, 2013 at 1:30 AM
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ASHLEYPOOLE1
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The radiator/cooling fan is not working. Even with air on high. The A/C fan does. No, the fuses were blown when I bought it. Replaced fuses and they are okay. They have not blown since.
Mar 29, 2013 at 1:45 AM
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ASEMASTER6371
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the radiator fan works off the coolant sensor. check it to see if it is registering correctly.

Roy
Mar 29, 2013 at 1:50 AM
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CADIEMAN
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I understand the cooling fan is not working properly. There has to be: fan module to control the cooling fans. If not then replace the coolant sensor that's what controls the fans.
Mar 29, 2013 at 1:54 AM
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ASHLEYPOOLE1
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Do I need the cooling fan control for my car.
Do I need to just buy that or both that and coolant sensor?? Thanks
Mar 29, 2013 at 2:26 AM
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ASHLEYPOOLE1
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But I also read online that if the sensor is unplugged then fan will run on high. My fan didn't cut on. So it must be the fan control, then?
Mar 29, 2013 at 2:28 AM
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ASHLEYPOOLE1
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I used the actron obd ll pocketscan. Results came back. 0 codes. 3 incomplete inspection and maintenance monitors: catalyst,, evaporative system monitor , EGR. 5 ready: misfire, fuel system, comprehensive components, oxygen sensor , oxygen heater.


What exactly does this mean???
Mar 29, 2013 at 4:14 AM
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CADIEMAN
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first just buy a cooling sensor and replace it. Start here
Mar 30, 2013 at 12:13 AM
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ASHLEYPOOLE1
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Thanks for your help I finally looked and ound a bad fusible link, installed a new one all fixed.
Mar 30, 2013 at 12:19 AM
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MIKE316
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put new battery in,new terminal posts,turn key to start every goes dead , swicted ignition switch under sterring column.stillwont start.everything goes dead when iturn key tostart let go of key everything on dash comes back on lights stay on when key is turn on to start
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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Sounds like you need to adjust the psition of the ignitin switch, it's either too far forward, or too far back, just loosen the mounting screws and slide it back and forth until the right spot is found. this is by the Lincoln book:
Removal (Cougar, Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, Sable, Taurus, Thunderbird & Town Car) Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove upper and lower steering column covers. Disconnect ignition switch connector. Turn ignition switch to RUN position. Remove retaining screws and ignition switch. Installation Set ignition switch to RUN position by turning ignition switch shaft to START position, then releasing shaft. Install ignition switch. It may be necessary to move ignition switch back and forth to align switch mounting holes with lock cylinder housing holes. Install and tighten switch retaining screws. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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ERCO67
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Electrical problem
1994 Lincoln Town Car V8 Automatic 70000 miles

I have no interior lights or powerlocks unless the engine is running. Someone told me that it may be a bad relay. I wanted to know if I can change the relay and where it may be located in the car. The car is totaly power dead and shuts down electricaly unless the ignition is running.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Hi erco67,

Thank you for the donation.

Symptoms indicates a possible power supply interruption.

Check Fuse # 17 ( 10A) in underdash fuse box. Use test lamp to check if power is available at both ends of the fuse. If power is not available, you would need to check the sullpy from battery to the fuse.

You mentioned it is totally power dead, what are the other components that are not working ?
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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ERCO67
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To answer your question. Once the car is turned off. There is no power to any component. The lights don"t work, the remote control doesn"t work either. The combination door access panel doesn"t have power. even the trunk switch doesn"t work. Everything works though once the car key is turned on the ignition.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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ERCO67
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I checked the fuse and it works fine. Literaly nothing is operational when the key is not turning it on. Even the headlights dont go on. Nothing at all. Its like all the electrical power is totally shut off. I don"t know if there is a relay, but the fuse is fine and even if the fuse was not, none of those components would work when the car is operational.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Vehicle system uses 2 power supply sources, one when the ignition is OFF and another is when the ignition switch is turned ON. If the power source is missing from the circuit when ignition switch is OFF, you would not be able to operate them until you turn on the ignition switch.

With so many items not working, it definitely is a power supply fault and when checking fuses, they might look good so a test lamp or volt meter would be the best way to go about checking.

No relays are used for power suppy of these circuits.

Check the following fuses for battery voltage: Fuses might be good, but I need to know if battery voltage are available at these points to understand the location where the power supply is missing.

Fuse # 1 ( 15 A )
Fuse # 10 ( 30 A )
Fuse # 17 ( 10 A )
Fuse # 11 ( 20 A )
All above in underdash fuse box.

Fuse A ( 50 A ) in under hood ( engine compartment ) fuse box.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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ERCO67
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Hi. I checked all the fuses you mentioned and they are all in good shape and carry 12 V voltage on both sides. Do I have to do it when the ignition is on or off. It just doesn"t make sense that it would be the fuses, otherwsie the components would not work when the car is running if the fuses were bad. There seems to me that whatever supplies power from the battery to the lelectrical components is not working when the ignition is off. Unless I am doing it wrong. Do I have to have the ignition on or off. What else could be blocking the power source when the ignition off besides the fuses. Thank you.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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You need to test them with ignition switch turned off.

I don't think it is those fuses mentioned but I need to know if battery voltage is present at those fuses to understand the problem.

It should be the main power supply to these fuses but if all fuses have battery voltage, then the main supply is good and you have to test the power supply to the components concerned to check if any connectors are not secure.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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ERCO67
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Would the power supply to the components be located under the hood. Is it nextt o the battery.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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The main power supply is from there, the fuse and fusible link box.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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ERCO67
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Ok. with the ignition off, none of the fuses have voltage. I took out the fuses and read the ohm resistance and the fuses are all good.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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ERCO67
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If the power supply or mainsupply when the ignition is off is bad. Can you please tell my where I can trace it in order to find where the problem is. Do I start from the battery? Thank you.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Check Fuse A (50A) and Fuse H (30A) in underhood fuse box for battery voltage and fuse condition.
Apr 25, 2020 at 3:15 PM (Merged)
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