2000 Ford Mustang wont accelerate

Tiny
BOOTHCODY
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  • 2000 FORD MUSTANG
The car runs fine when you first start it up and if you drive it short distances but if you drive down the interstate or really get on the gas the car will eventually quit accelerating right you have to push the a fourth of the way to get it to go anymore than that makes it shake and its really bad trying to go from first on up. The car is a v6 3.8l manual it throws a code after it shakes enough p0040 something about 02 sensor swaped ive changed spark plugs wires and the air filter oh and if you turn it on and off while its acting up itll drive normal for a little bit about a minute or two it starts again
Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 11:49 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
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Here a pic of the engine if that helps also the car has a rebuilt title and was in a flood
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
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Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and clip it under the windshield wiper arm or to the radio antenna so you can watch it. If the pressure drops when the problem occurs, suspect a plugged or collapsing pickup screen on the fuel pump.
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
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I changed the fuel filter and it looked like mud water and I checked the pressure before at idle it was 49 but I havnt tryed it when the problem occurs ill try to get a gauge soon
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
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If it is the pickup screen can I get a new one or do I got to get the whole fuel pump
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
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Ok so took the car for a ride the fuel gauge I had wasnt long enough to see but I would stop and check and it stayed at 30 the whole time and would go to 50 if you turned off the car I did notice the the fuel pump (im guessing its the fuel pump) there was a clicking noise from the rear and my buddy says he dont think my fuel pump is resetting when I turn on the car cause it dont buzz
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
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Sorry to take so long. Feeling lousy and internet stopped working for a while.

The strainer is available separately. I replaced it on two different Chrysler products I owned in the '90s. Those cost me three bucks each. I replaced it on my '88 Grand Caravan about ten years ago and just three days ago for the second time. I had a fuel pressure gauge tied to the radio antenna for the last year. Normal pressure runs around 50 psi. It has dropped to as low as 20 psi and the engine still ran fine with no symptoms. It sputters at 15 psi. The problems were I couldn't reach 80 mph on a hot day which equated to not being able to drag around a big tandem axle enclosed trailer that's bigger than the van. I figured out that if I just let off the gas pedal a couple of seconds, the pressure would pop back up and I'd be able to pull the trailer another half mile or so before it occurred again.

The symptoms are different between a carbureted engine and a fuel injected one with a return line to the tank. With a carburetor the highest volume of fuel flows when the engine works the hardest, meaning accelerating or pulling a load. During periods of light load the float bowl has time to fill up so it can take a while for symptoms to appear. With fuel injection systems the largest volume of fuel is pumped during coasting. Intake manifold vacuum goes up and pulls the gas through the injectors harder. To prevent a rich mixture the fuel pressure regulator drops the pressure to hold the difference in the two forces steady. That means it's easier for the gas to pass through the regulator and back to the tank, so more volume is pumped. That's usually when the problems show up.

Those strainers can also collapse. That typically occurs after driving ten to fifteen miles, then you sputter to the side of the road for lack of fuel. It will stretch out again in a minute or two, then you can drive a few more miles.
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Saturday, June 29th, 2013 AT 11:04 PM
Tiny
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Alright ill try to replace that and see if thats helps thank you very much
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Sunday, June 30th, 2013 AT 11:07 AM

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