Mechanics

DOOR HINGE PINS

1998 Jeep TJ • 6 cylinder 4WD Manual • 105,000 miles

I recently purchased a '98 Jeep Wrangler (TJ so I'm told) that has a rag top and 1/2 doors which appear to be original equipment. At 64 yoa my hearing is failing so a I purchased on Craig's list a pair of '02 Wrangler doors with chrome hinge w/pins. After paying for them a going home I noticed the chrome hinge pins are not threaded that they appear as tapered spikes. I'm puzzled. The Haines manual which came with the Jeep indicates and the vehicle appears to have a threaded nut on the original equipment hinge pin. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Also what is the correct wrench size to remove the OEM nut presently on the vehicle hinge pin?
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Robert.m.marsden
April 19, 2011.




Sorta-Kinda maybe see where you are coming from!

Imma CJ Kinda Guy

My doors are "Soft Top Doors"---But even CJ (1955-1986) Hardtop doors too, are "QUICK REMOVABLE". Old stuff had no nuts or bolts!

Swing the door open, lift up, they are off!

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF JEEPING!

Click on me. Send my your Email in "Messages", (not here, for the world to see!) I will send you some Jeep Pics to view!

See my doors?

1/2 the hinge stays on the Jeep--soft or hardtop.

Please respond. Is this what you are speaking of?

The Medic
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CJ MEDEVAC
Apr 19, 2011.
Thanks for the quick response. In my original question, I failed to indicate that the recently purchased '02 doors are full steel doors. I'm concerned that to remove the OEM 1/2 doors and just 'drop' the tapered pins of the full door into the other half of the hinge would result in a loose fit and a lot of rattling. I suspect I'm going to need to purchase new hinges.


Tiny
Robert.m.marsden
Apr 19, 2011.
On the CJ doors (either kind) My doors may not just, "Interchange" with another feller's Jeep. They were not built "Super Precision".

They will, however, "Adapt" to the situation!

On plain ole soft doors, you might have to slightly bend the angle of the "Made On Door Pin" on the door, to get it to EZily slide in both "Body" hinges simultaneously as not to bind, and be able to side back out without fighting it.

Now, with Steel doors, the hinges on the doors, are somewhat, what needs to be LEFT ALONE!

On the CJs (More than likely, as with yours) IF YOU WERE TO REMOVE THE HINGE HALF (Don't!) The holes on the body are large, where the bolts go thru.

If you just kinda loosen the bolts up a little (Maybe start with the bottom hinge) You can sorta "TWEAK" the hinge half, so that It will "GEOMETRICALLY" get in line with the "SWING AXIS" of the upper hinge. (That did sorta sound scientific, Didn't It?)

It may turn out that you loosen both, install the door, into proper fitting position (Body wise), Push up on the Body hinges (taking out the "Drop Down Slack", Then have your buddy tighten up one bolt, closest to the door, each hinge, from inside.

Swing it gently out and closed, to verify fit. Then tighten the rest up permanently.

Your doors may interchange, without moving the hinge half. But if they do not, you must "Tweak" for each swap over.

Thanks for responding, few people do. It's nice to know, if my info helped at all

The Medic

My Other Jeep: 1st pics (last answer)--My 1st Jeep '77 CJ5 (V-8 304, Blue stripes on hood, taken in '83)

Then I had 4 more CJ5s, Now I have another '77 CJ5--"Mr. Jeep"(258 [4.2L] 6 Cyl; other 2 pics up top) And I rebuilt/ still have "WILLY" '46 Willys Jeep. Never had anything else, as primary, reliable transportation!

Only Manly Names For Proven, Strong, Manly Vehicles! They are not "Sissy-Like". No need to label 'em that way!


CJ MEDEVAC
Apr 19, 2011.

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