Stalls intermittently

Have you scaned the computer with an OBD2 scanner? Also, have you checked fuel pump pressure?

I am not a mechanic nor do I have an OBD2 scanner. I thought that's what the mechanics did that I took the car to. They said they checked the codes with a computer.
I do not know if they checked the fuel pump pressure.
The one mechanic acted like a know it all, but found nothing. The other would really like to figure it out, but has been unsuccessful. I would like to give him some ideas to help solve this issue.

Have him check the fuel pressure and check for vacuum leaks. If the computer was scanned and there were codes, ask him to tell you the codes and then let me know so I can look them up for you. The engine codes should start with a P... for example, PO300.

Thanks for your reply. No codes when he scanned. I talked to him about the fuel pressure and vacuum leaks. He will check next week. I'll let you know. Any idea what to expect in repair costs if it turns out to be either?

If there is a fuel pressure issue, it will matter what the cause is. Same with vacuum leaks; how quick they find it and what is leaking.

Fuel pressure okay and no vacuum leaks. Recommends to replace Idle air control valve based on past experience with a Dodge van with same issue. BTW... there are no codes because there seems to be an interruption in power, which is resetting the codes, if any. I had been having a problem of the odometer and tach not coming on right away since last year, but no one had the time to find the short, loose wire or whatever. Does IAC seem like a reasonable explanation? He feels we're at the point of trial and error because the codes keep resetting.

The IAC can be removed and cleaned. Tell him to check the fuel pressure right as it stalls. Also have him scan for live data.

Had the IAC replaced. Didn't help. There were no pressure or vacuum leaks. No codes. Everything was checking out ok. But it still stalled. They then found oil in the spark plugs. Valve gasket seal was leaking. Replaced it along with plugs and wires, which crumbled as the took them out. Car stalled two weeks later. They found a small hose cracked. Fixed it. So far, so good, but it hasn't been driven much since.

Keep us apprised.

Car stalled twice on acceleration up a hill. Then the third time while steady speed on level surface. But before it stalled, it bucked, tack went to zero; stepped on gas, but car wouldn't go. Still had power. Pulled to the side then it stalled. Wouldn't restart. Had it towed to mechanic. Next day it started right up and he was unable to recreate the problem. Does anyone have any other advice?

Check primary and secondary resistance on the ignition coil, both hot and cold.

Thanks for your reply. They are checking the coil resistance right now. They said the 1997 Stratus ES model does not have a cam sensor, rather a distributor. I thought it had a cam. Please advise.

coil resistance checks out. Cam sensor or crank sensor... or get rid of the car.

Some cars have cam sensors, some don't. It's just what the engineers decide to use to help the ignition system decide when to fire the plugs. Every engine has a camshaft of one type or another. That decides when the valves open and close.

Did they check the coil resistance both hot and cold? Some electrical problems will only show up while hot and can't be diagnosed cold.

Check continuity and power to and from the crank sensor.

This may or may not help but,, I have a Jeep grand Cherokee 1996. And i had a similar issue which this one is a big one on these Jeeps. At first i replaced my gas cap... no solve... Then I did all plugs and wires, This one had a distributor cap replaced that and the cam and crankshaft sensor. And It started to do better then I replaced the coil thinking that was this issue. checked all the ground wires poitive lead and batter for corrosin. Checked my fusebox and fuses inside and under the hood. all good still shut off on me sometimes, turned out to be the wires that connect the PCM computer, So find the computer on you car while someone starts it. and wiggle the connectors to the PCM and hold it in different spots if it stalls at anypoint while doing this the Sodering points inside the PCM have a break or something inside there causeing a stalling issue. Mostly More common in Jeeps and A few other Chrysler Products. But mostly Jeeps. But that may not be your issue. Just thought i'd throw my experience in here.

Thanks for the heads up.

So what was the answer?

Hi,

For some reason this came to me today. If you haven't had the problem resolved, it does sound like a crankshaft position sensor and this vehicle does have one. I don't know which engine you have, but if you look at pic 1, it shows the sensor for both the 2.0L and 2.4L 4 cylinder engines and pic 2 is for the 2.5L V6. Since the rpm's dropped to nothing, this is my first suspect. Also, the idea that it wouldn't start when warm adds to the diagnosis.

When these sensors start going bad, the commonly will fail when warm and then work again once they cool off. Also, when the engine doesn't start, if there is no RPM signal, it usually indicates there is no crank signal.

Take a look through these two links:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Now, the V6 sensor is mounted in the transmission bell housing near the distributor. Is that what they meant? Also, do the symptoms in the second link seem to mirror what you experience?

Let me know.
Joe