Person hit us in driver's door. We brought it to Vin's, a State Farm approved vendor, to repair. They pulled our door off, and doing so cut all the wires. First, there is no need to cut ANY wires as the door switch will fit through the hole. Secondly, they went under the dash and cut the wires to the alarm that had nothing to do with the door. The wires do NOT GO THROUGH THE DOOR, therefore did not need to be severed. They did not know how to put it back together and requested State Farm pay for another alarm which they denied. So Vin's Jerry rigged the wires together with no connectors, just twisted wires and electrical tape, and sent us home without even telling us of this issue. Immediately electrical disaster : lights coming on/ off by themselves, truck cranking by itself ( remote start alarm ), door locks not work
ing and leaving us stranded in the vehicle with no way to get out except to have a locksmith slimjim the door, trouble starting, etc. Brought it back, semi-fixed issues, really only lights. Still alarm going off all the time, cranking, and now i am going through battery after battery, starter, alternator, lock switches. A second person hit us in rear and we brought truck back to them for the repairs, mainly to get the electrical issues fixed. Electrical still unchanged. After complaining to the Beaumont garage the son's owner, got involved and that is when we learned of the alarm issues. He admitted they messed it up, and had it sent to Performance Car Audio in Beaumont to install a new alarm . But they never tell Performance of the issues and tell the owner to install a basic alarm....no remote start. So we start having e
ven MORE issues. Next I have shifting problems. I pull the trans, put in another one.....same exact issues: when under acceleration rev out in 3rd or fourth, fine if you ease into it. So I call two dealors and three garages and am advised it is an electrical problem, more than likely from the alarm wires incorrectly ran and stealing power from a wire that is designed to provide a certain amperage to a sensor or switch. I call Rick, he has it towed to Performance where I am lied to by the owner, that he has paid a trans mechanic $ 40/hr and says it's a trans problem. Told later by Rick it was an alarm installer, not a mech. Second opinion from "diagnostic specialist " that says he watched the info come from computer to trans and it didn't shift, so my radiator is the problem. I rebuilt the trans, flushed radiator, now in limp mode....Concerned system shorted to frame so I call Rick who comes to my house. Through his own investigation with his meter concludes there is a short and takes my computer with him telling me to dealer. A few days later I go to dealer and learn the truck has never been there, it's at a personal friend of Rick's. They replaced the wiring harness that isn't even the one that they cut into ( under dash/ column ) and then call to tell me that now my airbag light is on and they can't figure out why, and can't get lights to work.Has wrecker tow our truck and drop it off. Find ANOTHER alarm on it, partially put back together, huge hole under seat with exposed wire to airbags and I don't even know if they work. Took all third alarm out and matched wires, checked fuses, reset ecm, touch disconnected pos/ neg cables, still limp mode. With test light between neg post and neg cable shows short...10 seconds a buzzing and light goes out. Traced that to instr. panel dimmer module or wiring to it. Now ABS light stays on.
ing and leaving us stranded in the vehicle with no way to get out except to have a locksmith slimjim the door, trouble starting, etc. Brought it back, semi-fixed issues, really only lights. Still alarm going off all the time, cranking, and now i am going through battery after battery, starter, alternator, lock switches. A second person hit us in rear and we brought truck back to them for the repairs, mainly to get the electrical issues fixed. Electrical still unchanged. After complaining to the Beaumont garage the son's owner, got involved and that is when we learned of the alarm issues. He admitted they messed it up, and had it sent to Performance Car Audio in Beaumont to install a new alarm . But they never tell Performance of the issues and tell the owner to install a basic alarm....no remote start. So we start having e
ven MORE issues. Next I have shifting problems. I pull the trans, put in another one.....same exact issues: when under acceleration rev out in 3rd or fourth, fine if you ease into it. So I call two dealors and three garages and am advised it is an electrical problem, more than likely from the alarm wires incorrectly ran and stealing power from a wire that is designed to provide a certain amperage to a sensor or switch. I call Rick, he has it towed to Performance where I am lied to by the owner, that he has paid a trans mechanic $ 40/hr and says it's a trans problem. Told later by Rick it was an alarm installer, not a mech. Second opinion from "diagnostic specialist " that says he watched the info come from computer to trans and it didn't shift, so my radiator is the problem. I rebuilt the trans, flushed radiator, now in limp mode....Concerned system shorted to frame so I call Rick who comes to my house. Through his own investigation with his meter concludes there is a short and takes my computer with him telling me to dealer. A few days later I go to dealer and learn the truck has never been there, it's at a personal friend of Rick's. They replaced the wiring harness that isn't even the one that they cut into ( under dash/ column ) and then call to tell me that now my airbag light is on and they can't figure out why, and can't get lights to work.Has wrecker tow our truck and drop it off. Find ANOTHER alarm on it, partially put back together, huge hole under seat with exposed wire to airbags and I don't even know if they work. Took all third alarm out and matched wires, checked fuses, reset ecm, touch disconnected pos/ neg cables, still limp mode. With test light between neg post and neg cable shows short...10 seconds a buzzing and light goes out. Traced that to instr. panel dimmer module or wiring to it. Now ABS light stays on.
Dec 20, 2011 at 4:19 AM