1997 Chevrolet S-10 • 6 cylinder 4WD Automatic •

How hard is it to replace a heater core on a 97 s-10 4x4 6 cylinder?
November 23, 2010.

It is a somewhat big job. Here are the directions I was able to find for you: Disconnect the negative battery cable and properly drain the engine cooling system to a level below the heater core.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the core tubes near the cowl.

The instrument panel carrier is designed not only to provide access to parts through removal of the carrier components, but the carrier will also tilt downward as a complete assembly to allow access from the top. If this is desired, remove the retainer screws along the top and bottom of the carrier assembly (refer to the figure). The instrument panel will then tilt as an assembly into the cab. It is necessary to unbolt and lower the steering column from the carrier to allow for maximum movement of the instrument panel.

The instrument panel must be removed or repositioned for access to the heater core case. Unbolt and either tilt the instrument panel forward or disengage the instrument panel components and remove the panel from the vehicle. In most cases, tilting the panel forward should be sufficient for the necessary access, but if necessary remove the panel refer to Body & Trim in this guide.
Unfasten the heater core rear case retaining screws, then remove the rear case for access to the heater core.
Loosen the retainers and remove the heater core retaining straps.
Remove the heater core and seals.

To install: Install the heater core and seals, taking care not to damage the core tubes when inserting them through the cowl.
Install and secure the core retaining straps.
Install the rear case and secure using the screws.
Reposition and secure the instrument panel and components. Tighten the cowl screws to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm) and the lower instrument panel screws to 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm).
Connect the heater hoses to the core tubes.
Connect the negative battery cable, then properly refill the engine cooling system.
Run the engine at normal operating temperature, then check for leaks.

Thank you! Wow that seems like a lot!The whole dash has to move, damn. Guess I couldn't get away that easy. This is gonna take awhile : )~

Nov 24, 2010.
Honestly, nothing is easy anymore.

Let me know if you run into trouble.

So far so good. Takin the rest of the night off lol. Been workin on it for 5 1/2 hours already. Everything is diconnected as far as I think on the inside of the cab. Except for the parking brake cable (don't know how to disconnect that, got me confused). All thats left is to drain the system, finish unbolting in engine compartment, pop cores cherry, and reinstall everything. Question: Do I have to remove the balck box lookin thing that houses the core or can I just remove the front panel and get to it?Thanks for your input!

Nov 24, 2010.
You should be able to get to it by just removing the front panel.

Five and a half hours. They are a pain!

Let me know how it works out for you and if you have other questions.

Happy Thanksgiving.


Woohoo! Finally done. Total of 8 1/2 hours. Had a buddy come over and help me put it back together. The speedo didn't work but now I've got that all figured out. Thank you, thank you, thank you for the help that you posted for me =)appericate it. Hope you have Happy Holidays. Yard.

Nov 30, 2010.
Glad to help and good job. Let us know if you have questions in the future, happy holidays to you too.

Take care,