Ignition timing is off?

How do I check if the timing is right on my 1996 honda accord and how do I change it if it's wrong. Yes, I have a timing light and I cannot figure out how to adjust the distributor. All I can find on the distributor are 3 anchor bolts that connect it to the engine. Thank you

I loosened the 3 bolts and the distributor would only move about a 1/16 of an inch, which equals about the rest of the opening for the bolt to go thru. When I looked at the marks on the crankshaft, there are 3 of them. The firstone being TDC [ I Think ' and then one to left of the about 1/2 inch away and then the third one being to the left of that about another 1/2 inch. The one that is all the way left has the red paint on it and that one is roughly and I have to say roughly because I can't see it, almost right under the needle. I had to disconnect the wiring that went to the distributor inorder to get to the third bolt and now I have a Check Engine Light . Do you know how I can get rid of it?

Also, when I slowly ease the engine rpm's up to 1500-2200 I hear what I would call larger bearings knocking or floating or rattling, until the rpm's get to 2300. I can almost ALWAYS hear what sounds like valve chatter to me, which is what made me want to look at the timing in the first place. HELP. Thank you.

Hello, I'm sorry that it took so long for me to get back to you.

Autozone doesn't do the engine check light test here anymore, so, I went ahead and bought the little scanner. It's a cheap one, but it did tell me that it was a P0118 trouble and it allowed me to clear it.

I also look at a friends 1991 Honda today and his distributor had holes that were oval, which allows him to adjust the timing, where as mine has holes that are just slightly larger than the bolt that goes thru them. Meaning that there is no way for me to adjust it back and forth.

I was told that I can't adjust the valves, so no I haven't pulled the valve cover off to check them. During idle it sounds fine, it's not until I raise the rpm's up that I can hear them and I do mean hear them, until I get up to about 55 or 60 mph. In other words I hear them ALL of the time, when I'm in town and driving around. It sounds like they're not getting enough oil to me.

Now I really feel stupid, because the only thing I can find about what kind of an engine it has in it, is under the hood where it says that it's in the THN2 family. And another place on the door that says that it was made 1/96. It does tell me that the valve lash is.026 on the intake and.030 on the ehaust on the first sticker. And that's all I can find. It also says that it's a VTEC on the valve cover.

F22B1
3454290

Hello,

Thank you very much for helping me and being so patient with me. I had a friend look at it and now it sounds a lot quieter.

Take care and God Bless.

Car failed emissions test and timing is set at 29 btdc

Ever since I had the water pump and timing belt changed on my 93 accord I have ALOT of trouble getting it started was told its prolly my timing. If the timing is off culd it cause the car not to satrt? And where are the timing marks located

It could be the timing. Question is, has it been like this since the second you had the work done, or did it happen later. If it happened later, chances are that it jumped time. You can attempt to adjust the timing first, following the below procedure. If that doesn't work, you will have to remove and reset or replace the belt. Some techs do not correctly tighten the timing belt tensioner, so you may want to look into that, if you are able to get it back into time. I also attached some images for aid.

1. Remove the rubber cap from the inspection window of the cylinder block.

2. Start the engine and allow it to warm up (cooling fan comes on).
3. Connect the ORN/RED and GRN/WHT terminals of the service connector (BLU) with a jumper wire.

4. Connect a timing light to the No. 1 ignition wire; while the engine idles, point the light toward the pointer on the flywheel (for M/T), or on the drive plate (for A/T).

5. Adjust ignition timing to: 15 +/- 2 BTDC @ 700 +/- 50 RPM

6. Adjust as necessary by loosening the distributor adjusting bolts, and turn the distributor housing counterclockwise to advance the timing or clockwise to retard timing.

7. Tighten the adjusting bolts and recheck the timing.

8. Remove the jumper from the service connector and replace the rubber cap to the inspection window.

I know that you have to disconnect the vacuum hose to the distributor because it's the fuel injected model, but which timing mark do I place the distributor at? There are three marks and then 1 mark above those. The 3 look like a T.

I have a 89 accord with 2.0L and Auto trans. 170K miles. I just bought it. Gross poluter has carb problems but when I was having it checked out the shop could not adj timing below 24 degrees. Specs show 13-17 degrees btdc in drive. Could the timing belt have slipped enough to cause this problem without damaging the valves or could it be that someone put the belt on incorrectly. Unknown if anyone previously tried the repair. It runs ok and I don't hear anything that seems like it is hitting inside the engine. I am in the middle of taking off the timing belt covers and pulleys in the way and wonder if there is a good way to hold the crank pulley to remove the crank bolt. I tried a 1/2" impact gun and it won't budge. Also I can't find any timing pointer, any ideas where I shoul be looking? Thanks for any help, Ted