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Rear brakes

Tiny
MAXEKONG
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 BUICK CENTURY
  • 80,000 MILES
Hi guys, back brake would lock up. Took the drum off, adjusted star wheel. Back to normal. Couple days later same thing. What would cause the adjustment to kee tighting that drum up. Everything looks good, baffled. Thank you
Thursday, September 8th, 2011 AT 4:41 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Both shoes free to move? Both pistons of cylinder move? Any contamination on shoes? See diagram
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Thursday, September 8th, 2011 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Best thing here is to make sure all the springs are in the correct place and the operational parts aren't on the wrong wheel. Especially ifit keeps on doing it. Or one of the actuators aren't working right by a springbeing in the wrong spot and hitting it.
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Saturday, September 17th, 2011 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
NATETHIB
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 BUICK CENTURY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
2001 Buick Century. Rear brakes are sticking, just got a quote of 445 to repair. Shop said all new rear brakes, leaking fluid was the cause of the sticking. Does this sound right?
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 6:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JALOPYPAPA
  • MEMBER
  • 467 POSTS
I don't know what the standard labor is on that, but it sounds a bit high, plus I'd question whether you need all-new brakes and hardware on both sides. Every time I've had a leaking wheel cylinder, it's just on one side, and I've been able to just rinse the shoes off with brake cleaner, replace the cylinder and go on. Doing it myself, the cost is less than $20. They say the shoes may need replacement if they get fluid on them, but in my experience they don't.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 6:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DADDYBAG
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 BUICK CENTURY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I replaced the rear brake shoe on the left side. Upon completion I took it for a spin and noticed a slight grinding or rubbing. I'm thinking it needs adjustment. How do I adjust the brakes or are they self adjusting?
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 6:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JALOPYPAPA
  • MEMBER
  • 467 POSTS
They are self-adjusting but often benefit from a manual adjustment. Some cars, but not this one, have an opening in the back of the backing plate that allow adjustment. Without one, you just have to pull the drum off, adjust, and check for tolerance. If you can't get the drum back on, the shoes are too tight. Once you can, push the drum firmly against the hub and turn it back and forth. It's okay if you hear a slight scraping noise as long as you don't feel any friction or resistance. For it to be loud enough to hear while driving, it's probably too tight, or something else with the hardware is out of whack.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 6:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
I attached the process from the manual. Unfortunately that is not extremely detailed so with this guide I am sure you will be able to figure it out. If you still are having issues get some pictures of what the specific thing you are struggling with and we can figure out what to do with it. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-shoes-and-drums
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 6:04 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAEDMALOY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 BUICK CENTURY
  • 150,000 MILES
I have reassembled the drum brakes and the shoes arent in the right position to allow installation of the adjuster assembly.

Is there a tool to spread the retractor spring or something?
Do you have any tips on the reassembly steps that Chiltons doesnt include?
A flat screwdriver isnt really helping.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 6:05 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,727 POSTS
Ya gotta hand it to the engineers at General Motors. When they have a reliable and effective brake system perfected, they still keep looking for a solution where there's no problem. Guess that's how they justify their need to be there.

If you're just trying to install the adjuster mechanism between the two shoes, you just have to pull hard on one of them. An easier alternative is to put the adjuster and spring in place before installing the shoes. That way you can bring the tops closer together to relieve tension on the spring, then use the shoes as levers to pull the spring apart when you place the assembly on the backing plate.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 6:05 PM (Merged)

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