1995 Blazer Not Starting

Check fuel pressure / regulator. Also, make sure the crank sensor is clean and not covered in mud.

Where is the crank sensor located??

Near the harmonic balancer (bottom crank pulley).

Took off plenum and drivers side is clean with a pool of gas sitting in the chamber while passenger side dirty with small pool of oil sitting in chamber. Also one of the lines has gas leaking around it on drivers side inside plenum. Spider??

Checked and both fuel lines inside plenum were leaking. I replaced those, turned the engine over to activate the fuel pump...no leaks. Cleaned everything up, changed the oil and put evrything back together. Tried to start and there was a loud backfire and the engine just puttered for a few seconds wanting to start. Each time I try the engine putters almost starting and then quits. I changed the spark plugs prior to all of this, so I rechecked them and found there is still spark to the plugs. Could the plugs be fouled? When I took off one of the plug wires and cranked it, the engine would putter and then quit. There is still a gassy smell on the plug I took out and it looks black on one side of the tip and clean on the other.

It could be the plugs. Even though they are new, they may have fouled. The loud backfire was most likely the result of a build up of fuel. I hate to say it because I can't be 100% sure (not being there), but recheck spark to all plugs to make sure it is a hot snapping blue spark. Make sure none of the wires got mixed up going to the plugs. If the spark is orange, white, or something other than blue, and isn't arcing between the plug and electrode, the plug is most likely bad. (I don't want to suggest spending more money on plugs if you don't need to.) If you do get new plugs, get the OEM brand (AC)and type.

Checked spark coming off two wires and there was no initial spark. Checked the coil and it is sending good spark to distributor. Took the rotor off but dont see amy burn marks or anything. Plug wires are new....Going to buy new rotor and cap sometime this week.

Remove the ignition module from the distributor and have it checked.

I called around but no one seems to be able to test it, going to try a few more places tomorrow. Any way to test ony own? Going to call my friend at dealership too. Noticed spark off the coil was weak.

Called around and no one can check the ICM. I took spark tester to coil and it showed spark, no spark coming off the plug wires. New rotor and cap installed still nothing. Checked the ohms off the coil with meter set to rx1000. Don't really know anything about ohms or how much should be there. Straight off coil at 2, attached wire to coil and off wire coming from coil was reading 5. At spark plug wires 0. 12v going to coil wire and 12v going to ICM. Going to look at rotor and cap again.

The problem does seem to be in the distributor. Is there any way you could get a different distributor to try?

Took the cap off last night and noticed that I can turn the rotor 180 degrees in both directions before it gets tight. Have to look into that further... Any ideas?

Oh and with the cap off the rotor moves when I try to crank the engine.

That doesn't make sense. Check the rotor. There should be a notch that slips onto the top of the distributor shaft so it can't move that much. It sounds like the rotor has broken or the distributor gear is broken. Either will totally knock the engine out of time. If you remove the rotor, can you spin the distributor shaft that it attaches to?

Ok... New rotor, cap, wires, distributor, coil... Getting spark into distributor but nothing coming out to plugs. Checked ohms on cap, rotor and wires all look good. There is about 12.3 volts going to coil and it drops a little during cranking. The spark looks a little weak off the coil though, so got another new coil and still that same spark