1994 Dodge Dakota Repair Question
Mileage: No information provided.
Is there an easier method for testing the purge selonoid on a 1994 Dakota. My scan tool indicates DTC 31-purge valve selonoid. I have tested it for
Asked by dmel340Answer
When it gets hot and is setting code see if it works when you add power and ground to it with it unplugged?If its a intermintant problem you have to test it when its acting up.
do you want me to run the engine hot and when the code appears, to clear the code, keep the relay unplugged and use jumper wires to the relay to activate the relay and rerun it to see if the code reappears. Am I interpreting your answer correctly? the engine is cold now with no code and I want to do your recommendation correctly.
Were talking about the canister purge solenoid correct?If so i was saying to bench test it on the vechile same way you did it before but when its hot and the code is active or setting.If you have a intermintant code you have to test the system when the problem is happening.As far as testing i was say unplug the canister purge solenoid if you think thats bad and run power and ground to it and see if the solenoid works.Also what code is it setting?
Still working on the 1994 dakota mpi fuel injection. No codes are present at this time. Installed a new coil and the truck is still popping in the exhaust, down on power, dropping at least one cylinder. When the engine is cold it appears to be idling fine. I did not test drive it cold. I plugged off he vacuum lines for the egr valve, disconnected the power line to the egr with no difference. I didn't mention previously, this is a rebuilt engine with 100000 miles and I did a compression test and all cylinders are 150 psi. I even checked the flex plate to ensure there were no cracks that would throw of the crank position sensor. Any suggestions what to look for next???
Still working on the 1994 dakota mpi fuel injection. No codes are present at this time. Installed a new coil and the truck is still popping in the exhaust, down on power, dropping at least one cylinder. When the engine is cold it appears to be idling fine. I did not test drive it cold. I did test drive hot. I plugged off he vacuum lines for the egr valve, disconnected the power line to the egr with no difference. I didn't mention previously, this is a rebuilt engine with 10,000 miles ago and I did a compression test and all cylinders are 150 psi. I even checked the flex plate to ensure there were no cracks that would throw of the crank position sensor. Any suggestions what to look for next???