what causes the motor to run fine for 10 or 20 mins then die?

It could be an ignition or fuel problem. Does the car start righ back up? If not, when it doesn't start, check to see if there is spark and fuel to the engine. Also, check fuel pump pressure.

it doesnt start back up untill it's completely cooled down, I changed the spark plugs and the old one which are only a few months old had really bad carbon deposites, before I did it wouldnt start at all, Im thinking its bad gas bu Im not for sure, could it be he ignition coil packs? or does it sound like bad gas?

It sounds like either a bad crank sensor or fuel pump. When it doesn't start, check for spark and fuel to the engine. One will be missing. Then we will know what circuit to focus on.

ok that narrows it down, I did two different diagnostics and no code came up at all, whats the best way to check for spark or fuel? If a code doesnt come up does that mean the crank sensor is fine?

no, it could still be bad. Go to our homepage under the DIY section for detailed instruction for checking both. There is also a video for checking fuel pump pressure.

Let me know what you find.

ok, thank you so much for your advice, it does sound like a crank sensor to me but before I assume that I will check the fuel pressure and check for spark, and yes I will definitely let you know what I find out, again thank you

Sounds good. Make sure you check for both when it won't start.

Look forward to hearing from you. Also, if you need a fuel pressure gauge, most parts stores will lend or rent them.

ok, I did a spark and fuel test, and I found spark to the plugs but theres no fuel coming from the test valve on the motor, not even a little, so does that sound like a fuel pump?

Either a bad pump or a plugged fuel filter. Disconnect the filter and connect gauge there to see if there is pressure. If none before the filter, then the pump is most likely bad.

awesome, thank you, I shall do that and see how it turns out.

Sounds good.

I have one more question, some one told me a relay sounds more likely than a pump because he said fuel pumps dont work then not then work then not, but if hes right how could I tell if I have a bad relay? Or do you think hes wrong?

First, pump do go in and out working. However, you can simply check the relay by switching it with a different relay in the relay box with the same part number. I'm sure you will find a match. Switch them and see if there is any difference.

I would bet on the i.c.m. which is your ignition control module.it's underneath the three coils,remove it and take it to your local auto supply store and they should be able to test it for you and it's usually free. Then go from there.this is a very common issue with these cars/engines.and you have all the symptoms

ok I had another theory, I tried changing out the fuel pump relay which on my car is under the passenger side glove box next on top of the secondary fuse box and it fired right up and ran the whole time but it idled at 2000rpms and didnt go down, then I turned it off and it wouldnt start back up, so does this still sound like a fuel pump problem?

I successfully installed a new fuel pump and that didnt fix the problem, and it gets adequate spark, so the only other thing I can think of is the throttle, what do you think?

Make sure proper pressure is making it to the fuel rail and the injectors are getting power.

would that indicate a bad icm if no power reached the injectors? and I checked fuel pressure again and the test valve shown no pressure but I disconnected the feed from it and fuel blasted out, but I wanted to hear your opinion before concluding anything, could that mean a bad regulator?

I think I have found the problem, the check engine light did not light up untill the car died again, so right then and there I did a diagnostic, trouble code 58 came up and it said fault with anti-theft system, can you tell me what to star looking at like the module itself or a relay?