Truck stalls when engine hot (after 15 min of driving 45+mph) and then slowing down or idling at stop sign

Just an update. I reached my limit of spending ($1K) on the truck for now. The truck has officially been put in hibernation. Someday I will tow it to the dealership. In the meantime, I feel like a disabled person who has lost his wheelchair.

Out of hibernation and back on the road again!
As you all recall, my truck would always stall while idling at stop signs and stop lights.
Running out of options, I played around with Throttle control sensor to see if it would effect idle performance and hopefully stop the stall problem. This action recorded two engine faults.
A) Throttle Control Sensor Fault,
B) Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Fault.

Set back Throttle sensor to original state and the error for this sensor went away but from here on, the Coolant temp sensor fault persistently remained. I replaced the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) and Halleluiah! I have driven it for 100 miles since and no stall and it passed California’s strict smog test beautifully. After spending $1300 replacing and or cleaning many parts, a $13 sensor fixed the problem. For 8 months that I was dealing with stall problem, the truck neither generated an engine fault nor the temperature gauge indicated anything other than the normal driving temp until I messed with Throttle control sensor. How and Why? Well, at this point I don’t care.
In any case, thanks to all those who made suggestions and recommendations.

My truck does the same thing when all warmed up it also bucks and gas gage goes to e I have changed every censor there is and still does it

If the gas gauge goes to E, I would take a closer look at the Fuel system. Have you replaced the Fuel filter?
(on the side: My truck is in hibernation again. After more than a year of driving smoothly, The fuel dampener is leaking gas. It is a less than $200 part but unfortunately it is cramped on the back of the engine, impossible to get to)

I had to replace my leaky fuel dampener recently. Yes, it's a pain to get to. Best thing is to remove plenum. While I was in there, I replaced pcv valve. Ironically, that fixed the "stalling when hot" problem, which is why I subscribed to this thread in the first place?

Thank you Mmmdave. Up to now I had not come across anyone who had to replaced the Fuel Dampener. I am not sure of your 4R but My Toyota 4R in 1990 model (3VZ-E engine). Firstly, I am short on vocabulary! By Plenum I assume you are referring to the air intake chamber. Because of the age of the car, and the fact that there are so many components hat have to be disassembled for this job, I have hesitated to start on this. I am scare of that one bolt or a nut that just may refuse to open or get damaged trying to open.
In any case, if you (or anybody else) can provide information on special tools if needed and the proper steps I have to take to replace the dampener I very very very much appreciate it.

Mine is also a 1990 3vze. Lots of vacuum hoses. Get a roll of masking tape and a sharpie and label everything. Take pictures. All so you can put it back together right :-)

Get get a new plenum gasket, and a pcv valve before you start. You'll have to disassemble fuel lines and throttle linkage too. I'd advise doing it in a well ventilated space. Those gas fumes will get to you big time. I didn't use special tools, just a good set of socket wrenches mostly. The usual.

There may be a YouTube video out there that would be worth 10,000 words.

Oh yeah, the plenum is the big silver thing that covers the top of the engine.

Good luck!

Thank again Mmmdave. By special tool I meant and was hoped there is a tool that would allow replacing the dampener without messing with the plenum. Any way, very busy now but I will plan and work on this and post the results though I can't tell when that would be. Regards.