have you had success before with this car?

Answered by fixitmr
24 questions asked

you may just have a bad/no connection.

Answered by fixitmr
24 questions asked

this is a new customer. car has been sitting aprox. 8 to 12 months. replaced alt. due to overcharging. 13.5 volts at idle, 18.0 volts at 1500 rpm. I think I just answered my own question. did that fry the ecm. i hadn't considered that since the car runs fine all sensors seem to be working. or is the system in limp home mode?

Response from lindale778
1 question asked

To obtain an output of the diagnostic codes, proceed as follows:

The following initial conditions must be established:

Battery voltage above 11 volts.
Throttle valve completely closed.
Transmission in Neutral position.
Accessory switches off.

Answered by Wrenchtech (expert)
14,713 answers provided

reading my response triggered another thought. if the over voltage did damage to the ecm the car probably would not run, which suggests that the ecm is fine. therfore, is it probable, that there is a short in the insterment panel that is keeping the light on? if i remove the ecm and the light stays on my therory would be correct. we'll see

Response from lindale778
1 question asked

oh so your sayin your turn key on light is on you start car light is on you jump diagnostic light is on steady.

Answered by fixitmr
24 questions asked

i unplugged the ecm, the light went out. plugged it back in jumpered T&E1 and it started binking out codes first code four blinks (code 4?) next 11 blinks is that code 11 or the end of the list? it keeps repeating 4 then 11 continously until i remove the jumper. still can't disable spark timing to set timing the obd that i have is supposed to be the 2 digit style based on year, so why do i get code 4?

Response from lindale778
1 question asked

The thumb of rule for ECM is that if codes are not as listed, you need a replacement ECM, at least for testing.

Answered by KHLow2008 (expert)
39,806 answers provided