1988 Toyota Corolla Repair Question
Car wont idle at manufacture specs
thanks again in advance
Asked by thekull7880gmailcomAnswer
there is so much going on here and you have done so much replacing with no results, we need to back up.
what started this whole episode. we need to back to basics. compression, fuel pressure and spark. then we start to look at other areas.
what made you think the carb was bad??
Roy
Is this vehicle a California specs? Only they are equipped with the Check Engine Light.
FeedBack Carburettor (FBC) system, a system I hate to work on. there are too many vacuums and controls that can cause problems and diagnosing is never easy.
Symptom indicates a fault with the idle control and yes, the compression reading helps.
The vacuum readings etc does not help because at high rpms they don't tell you much.
Check and ensure the idling circuit is functioning correctly. The fuel cut solenoid should click when power is available and ensure power is getting to it when ignition is turned on.
Check for vacuum leaks, try using a circlip plier to clmp each vacuum lines to see if any makes any changes to engine speed, you need to keep engine running while performing such checks.
the car is a jdm model and carries alot of vaccum lines , lines are every where. i thought the carb was the issue because since i had that car over 15yrs and the engine check light has a bulb and the icon on the cluster but it just never lights up, the diagnosis box has the T and E1 one connectors in it with some others , i tried jumping them and still the chck light doesnt flash ...i feel like replacing the ecu and harness and change the car over to EFI..if no one can help
For JDM models the CEL don't work if I got it correct.
I believe it is the carb that is the cause but only the ldling circuit. Have you tested the fuel cut solenoid? Some vacuum lines operated via thermal control and vacuum leaks during idling would stall the engine. I believe a solenoid or thermal valve is not working correctly.
i thought it was the carb that had an issue because most times when i had similar idiling problems and i cleaned or replaced it the problem went away
hey guys who helped , thanks soo much, greatly appreciate it i got the car to idle last night at 750 rpms i found the problem while probing the vaccum switches with a multimeter and realise none give 12volts whether crnaking or at ignition and my batt light wasnt coming on at ignition either, my solenoids were good on the carb tested them for clicks and i know the thermo valve will basically operate at a heated level so i doubted that out , my spark and ignition was good , only other option was to check fuses and so i did and found two fuses blown ,they were ecu-b and gauge fuse in the kick panel , after reinstalling new ones the car kicked with a little more than 1 crank and idled lovely, the batt light came back and the cooling was responding so no over heating and revs really nice, so i do hope anyone with future issues like mine may know where to check and how ....thanks again soo much guys
You're welcome and glad to know the problem is fixed.
Have a nice day.