Mechanics

CAR WONT IDLE AT MANUFACTURE SPECS

1988 Toyota Corolla • 200 miles

I have an 88-89 corolla that seems to just develop problems one morning for work, ive changed alternator, starter motor, distributor, carburetor, spark plugs and wires, oil pressure sw, water pump, battery, seals and radiator in the past since ive owned the car. Ive noticed since ive had it the chck engine light never came on at ignition, or any other way/ time, checked the bulb and its ok, the low fuel light used to come on then stopped ( just some history on the car). Now that morning two days ago the car started as normal on a single short crank, it idled really low so I left it to build, then it died, tried starting it again and it took about 10 min to start with a whole lot of cranking and gas pedal coaxing. When it started it idled high and stalled below 1.7rpms. So I being a diyer took the carb down cleaned and rebuilt it. Started little easier, but the rpm problem was still there, so I swapped out carbs and the car started fine and idled where it should be for like half of that entire day then I went and reved it high and the problem returned with the swapped carb.I then decided to put the rebuilt carb back in with hopes of things changing. But it was the same the car can only idle at 2k rpms anything lower and it stalls it will rev and everything but not idle below 2k and takes forever to start, now the battery light at ignition doesnt come on but it seems as tho the alternater is charging the battery. Then while having the car on I notice the heating gauge went up and the fans never came on, the car is equipped with a vaccum gauge which before the problem read 19 in/hg and fuel/air ratio gauge which read 15.7 to 17.4 while driving, tried unpluging the alternator to see if that was causing the issue but that didnt change the problem, the exhaust fumes burns my eyes but there is no smoke from the exhaust. Tried jumping the T and E1 connectors in the diagnosis box but check light didnt flash because it doesnt come on at all. Plz if you can help me. Because I really need my car to stay employed.

thanks again in advance
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Thekull7880gmailcom
September 9, 2012.




There is so much going on here and you have done so much replacing with no results, we need to back up.

What started this whole episode. We need to back to basics. Compression, fuel pressure and spark. Then we start to look at other areas.

What made you think the carb was bad?

Roy

Is this vehicle a California specs? Only they are equipped with the Check Engine Light.

FeedBack Carburettor (FBC) system, a system I hate to work on. There are too many vacuums and controls that can cause problems and diagnosing is never easy.

Symptom indicates a fault with the idle control and yes, the compression reading helps.

The vacuum readings etc does not help because at high rpms they don't tell you much.

Check and ensure the idling circuit is functioning correctly. The fuel cut solenoid should click when power is available and ensure power is getting to it when ignition is turned on.

Check for vacuum leaks, try using a circlip plier to clmp each vacuum lines to see if any makes any changes to engine speed, you need to keep engine running while performing such checks.

KHLow2008
Sep 9, 2012.
The car is a jdm model and carries alot of vaccum lines, lines are every where. I thought the carb was the issue because since I had that car over 15yrs and the engine check light has a bulb and the icon on the cluster but it just never lights up, the diagnosis box has the T and E1 one connectors in it with some others, I tried jumping them and still the chck light doesnt flash.I feel like replacing the ecu and harness and change the car over to EFI. If no one can help

For JDM models the CEL don't work if I got it correct.

I believe it is the carb that is the cause but only the ldling circuit. Have you tested the fuel cut solenoid? Some vacuum lines operated via thermal control and vacuum leaks during idling would stall the engine. I believe a solenoid or thermal valve is not working correctly.
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KHLow2008
Sep 9, 2012.
I thought it was the carb that had an issue because most times when I had similar idiling problems and I cleaned or replaced it the problem went away

Hey guys who helped, thanks soo much, greatly appreciate it I got the car to idle last night at 750 rpms I found the problem while probing the vaccum switches with a multimeter and realise none give 12volts whether crnaking or at ignition and my batt light wasnt coming on at ignition either, my solenoids were good on the carb tested them for clicks and I know the thermo valve will basically operate at a heated level so I doubted that out, my spark and ignition was good, only other option was to check fuses and so I did and found two fuses blown, they were ecu-b and gauge fuse in the kick panel, after reinstalling new ones the car kicked with a little more than 1 crank and idled lovely, the batt light came back and the cooling was responding so no over heating and revs really nice, so I do hope anyone with future issues like mine may know where to check and how. Thanks again soo much guys

Tiny
Thekull7880gmailcom
Sep 12, 2012.
You're welcome and glad to know the problem is fixed.

Have a nice day.

KHLow2008
Sep 12, 2012.

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