Alternator not charging battery?

What colors are the alt plug wires? What motor is in truck?

So it has seperate volt reg like picture in ad page? I was thinkin it was inclusive alternator?

I'm still confused. The white/black should plug back into alternator if reg is on alternator. And there should be a yellow/white wire that accompanies 2 large blk/org wires. Can you take alternator in and get it tested?

We want to help, things you have said sorta do not make sense

Can you send pics of stuff like your voltage reg, backside of alternator, solenoid, use a pointer and point at stuff, like a "fusible link"?

Pics are ez to post. These pertain to my '46 jeep

The medic

Fixitmr got the wiring end of this going with you---he might be able to get you a diagram, if '89 shows up in mit i

I got just 2 more questions, then i'm spent

1st pic---ammeter wire--is that a fusible link near your arrow?

Back to external regulator----did you slightly bend the spades to make better contact to the connector?

With jeep cjs they use a ford module (not related to this problem!) On 2 separate occasions (years apart) I replaced the module, as the old one tested badafter extensive testing and really going crazy with the wires for 2 days.I took the new module back. It too was bad.2nd time this happened, I was alert. Now my policy is test a new one before it leaves the store! (Yes, they think i'm crazy). Could it be your regulator is laughing at you now?

The medic

Have you run continuity test throughout the wire?

It might be a good idea to disconnect the battery first.

If you can get to the very end, you can always stick a straight pin in it.

We'll be waitin' on you

The Medic

And the deal with mr. Voltage regulator?

The "remove a cable, while running" is not a good practice! Especially w/ a computer car!

Battery test---key off--test at battery terminals with a voltmeter

Alternator test is exactly the same, except engine is running

I did not watch this completely--you determine if it is like your set-up

Http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjdatypqj6o

Changing my seach words may give you more hits

The medic

This is supposed to be a 4.9l 1988 f-150

See what you can find with this

I do not know how it looks at 2carfellers till I post it---let me know if you cannot read it well--i can safely get it to you without you blurting out your email address

The medic

Does yellow white wire show 12v?

Are we sure alt body is grounded?

Well sir,
If what you are asking is how to test the actual alternator housing to insure it has a ground

Then test the yellow/ white wire from it's connection at the alternator ("a" in the diagram) all the way back to the battery (where it finally winds up)

This can be done using "continuity"----basically this means you are sending out low voltage (like 1.5 volts) from the battery inside of the voltmeter. Down one of the leadsthen through whatever you want to test---then back up the other voltmeter leadthus completing the circuit

Disconnect the vehicle's battery---this will keep you from frying your meter by accident

The voltmeter is set on "ohms"--any ohm setting is fine for this application

If there is no circuit (or a break in in whatever you are testing) the meter reads "1" on a digital--or "0" on a analog (meter w/ a sweeping needle)

Suppose you are testing a 6 inch copper wire, placing a lead on each end of the wire "should have continuity" and a digital voltmeter will read "0" or "0.00"----on a analog voltmeter the needle will "max out". This means there is a complete circuit or the circuit has "continuity"

Sorta another variation to this is if there is resistance in the system---you will still have "continuity" except the voltmeter with give you a measurement of the resistance, instead of "0.00"----refining the exact resistance value is the reason for the different ohm settings on the voltmeter. Basically doing a "traditional continuity test" (looking for breaks) you need not worry with this.

So basically "1" means no continuity and "0.00 or a value" means the circuit got completed, and may or may not show some resistance----same goes for if the "needle has not moved"--moved partially or swept all the way across on a analog voltmeter

Some digital meters have a "beep" feature that can be used for continuity--this lets you "get on with it", without having to look at the meter face constantly.

This is useful if you are crammed under your dash---checking your fuses, without removing them, just by touching the little metal test port "windows" on the fuse itself, with both leads. Just remember, disconnect the car battery 1st!

So applying this in your question/ case

Test 1) one lead on alternator case, the other on your neg battery clamp (removed from battery)

Test 2) one lead on "a" at alternator connection, the other on pos battery clamp (removed from battery)

If this ain't what you are talking about---disregard all of this---and let fixitmr attempt to aid you!

I made some pics to help out my jeep cj guys---bear with them/ I made 'em a long while back, my 1st months having ever used a computer

The medic