Inconsistent curb idle and low power at RPMs

Tiny
HANG EM HI
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
Yep. Castanets are exactly what it sounds like.

The vacuum advance line is pulling from a port at the very bottom of the carb below the throttle plate. I set up my carb exactly like you told me to in the June 21st post above. So there are absolutely ZERO emissions controls junk hooked up.

This morning I noticed a small amount of knock during idle so I think it simply might be an issue of being to far advanced. I set to 8* at idle instead of at the recommended 1200 RPM (or something close to that). That might just be the problem. Perhaps I should set it to 8* at the 1200RPM like the manufacturer recommends.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 14th, 2012 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
LETS MOVE THE VACUUM ADVANCE HOSE --- TO A PORT JUST ABOVE THE THROTTLE PLATES. IT WILL NOW BE ON PORTED VACUUM

READJUST YOUR IDLE SPEED BACK TO 680 RPM ONCE YOU MOVE THE HOSE

THEN SEE IF THE 'LIL MEXICAN GAL STOPS WITH THE CASTANETS

LET ME KNOW THE RESULTS---NEXT STEP IS, I WILL EXPLAIN HOW TO CHECK BOTH ADVANCES WITH A TIMING LIGHT, TO INSURE THEY WORK AS THEY SHOULD

THE MEDIC

1-3 CJ-10 DIESEL

4-5 (MY)"WILLY"
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 15th, 2012 AT 3:38 AM
Tiny
HANG EM HI
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
OK here's what happened. Guess what? Another vacuum leek found and plugged. Here's the thing though, I really didn't notice a difference in performance or timing when I plugged the leak. Not sure what that means.

Changed the advance line to the ported vacuum. I noticed an increase in engine power, but she idles really rough now. She'll still get down to 680RPM but will bump and gurgle. The engine will also diesel every once and a while. Occasionally the engine will stall at idle. I backed off the advance by ear as far as I could go without loosing engine power. Let's say the mexican lady has been mortally wounded, but she's still in there. Under heavy load the engine will still click. Under light throttle I can get the click to go away. The advance is about 10* or so BTDC at idle.

Another thing to note is that the idle mixture screws are a whopping six turns out. They are in the sweet spot, a turn in or out will drop the RPMs. This may be a sign of a defective carburetor? I still have that old 79' Carter BBD sitting in my back room I can rebuild and slap into her to see if that helps.

Could the clicking be a valve issue? Maybe there are hot spots that are causing pre-ignition? Should I run a higher octane? When I replaced the spark plugs, I forgot to adjust the spark gap. Could this be the problem? Let me know. I'll be around tonight from 1700 to 2100. Feel free to call.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 17th, 2012 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
BETTER GAS MAY HELP

SOUNDS LIKE YOU STILL HAVE A VACUUM LEAK SOMEWHERE

MIX SCREWS WAY OUT MEANS IT IS TAKING MORE FUEL TO MIX WITH THE "EXTRA AIR" THAT YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE AT IDLE

CHECK THE INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS AND GASKET AND THE CARB TO INTAKE NUTS

THE PORT ON THE SIDE OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND A PIECE OF 3 FOOT HOSE MAY AID IN THIS POSSIBILITY OF FINDING A LEAK....THIS MIGHT WORK FOR YOU---HAVE A HELPER AID YOU IN THE SEARCH OR WITH THE SMOKIE!---SEAL THE CARB THROAT WITH TAPE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMok2y05jNE

GOOD HUNTIN'!

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 17th, 2012 AT 8:30 PM
Tiny
HANG EM HI
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
So remember that June 25th post where I pulled out the little prong thingies in the stepper motor? Well you were right. Definitely a vacuum leak. The ports for those prongs actually opens up to air on the back of the carb. So it was sucking a ton of extra air. I still have that old '79 Carter BBD. I swapped the float bowls of the '79 and the '85 and put the carb back in. No vacuum leaks. It did work for a while, but she wouldn't idle hardly at all. Super rough. Whenever the choke plate started opening, she would die. I messed with the timing a little but it still was super rough.

I double checked to make sure all the ports lined up for the '79 and '85 float bowls, but there must be something else different in the internals. I don't think she was getting any idle fuel flow really. I'll reassemble the '79 and put an entirely '79 carb in to see how that works. If that's not it either, I'll try and figure out a way to plug the holes on the '85 carb. Here's to trial and error!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 20th, 2012 AT 3:11 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
LET'S USE A FLASHLIGHT. NOT A CIGARETTE LIGHTER!

LOOK DOWN INTO THE CARB THROAT

THEN PULL BACK ON THE THROTTLE

ARE WE SEEING 2 REALLY NICE SQUIRTS (STREAMS) OF FUEL FROM THE ACCELERATOR PUMP? THEY SHOULD LOOK LIKE MINIATURE SQUIRT GUNS STREAMS. NOT A MIST AND NOT A DRIBBLE

THIS IS WHAT GIVES THE ENGINE A "KICK" WHEN YOU ACCELERATE, UNTIL THE VACUUM ACTION STARTS DRAWING FUEL FROM THE VENTURIES

THE PUMP ITSELF IS A TOY DART GUN DART. SUCTION CUP DEVICE INSIDE THE CARB.

IT MAY BE "SHOT" --- IT MAY BE OUT OF ADJUSTMENT -- YOU MAY HAVE ACCIDENTALLY DISCONNECTED IT FROM IT'S ACTUATOR

SOME OF THE PROCEDURES FOR IT CAN BE DONE BY REMOVING THE LID UP WHERE THE BOWL VENT IS. WITHOUT TEARING INTO IT

THERE ARE 2 PLASTIC CAMS IN THERE AS WELL AS THE METERING RODS. SPECIAL CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN TIGHTENING THE SCREWSYOU MUST HOLD DOWN ON THE CENTER OF THE METERING RODS TO KEEP THEM "IN THEIR CAMMED POSITION" AND NOT TO LET THEM JUMP OUT.

IF THEY DO JUMP OUT. THERE IS A HAIR LIKE SPRING THAT HOOKS TO EACH ROD---THEY MUST GO BACK INTO THEIR "HOLES" FREELY AND MOVE FREELY--THE ASSEMBLY MUST BE CAPTURED IN THE PLASTIC CAM-LIKE ADJUSTMENT. REALLY LOOK AT THIS STUFF AS YOU TAKE IT LOOSE. NOTHING SHOULD BIND, NOT EVEN A LITTLE BIT WHEN YOU ACTUATE THE THROTTLE GENTLY.I'VE SEEN THE METERING RODS BROKEN AND BENT OVER THE YEARS

BOTH THE ACCELERATOR PUMP AND THE METERING RODS MUST BE ADJUSTED CORRECTLY (SEE CHARTS). THEY ARE SEPARATE ASSEMBLIES THAT OPERATE OFF OF THE SAME AXLE/ OR ACTUATING ROD

"THE KNOWLEDGE BASE" SHOULD SHOW AND EXPLAIN THINGS WELL. ONE OTHER ADJUSTMENT IS A GAP ADJUSTMENT USING AN ALLEN SCREW ON TOP---USUALLY NO ONE MONKEYS WITH IT, LOOK AT IT WHILE YOU ARE IN THERE.

THE METERING RODS ARE VERY IMPORTANT IN LETTING THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF FUEL ENTER THE VENTURIES AT DIFFERENT THROTTLE POSITIONS AS THEY "OPEN" OR "BLOCK OFF" THE PASSAGE WAYS. THIS GIVES THE PROPER FUEL TO BE MIXED WITH THE PROPER AIR COMING DOWN THE THROAT. HENCE AIR/ FUEL RATIO, PERFECTION BEING AS CLOSE TO 14.7/1

THAT'S 14.7/1 (AIR/ FUEL) AT ---IDLE---ANY THROTTLE POSITION.

A NEW COMPUTER VEHICLE W/ INJECTORS CAN KEEP THIS RATIO CLOSE AND CONSISTENT

A CARB CAN'T COMPENSATE (WITHOUT A COMPUTER AND INJECTORS) TO KEEP EFFICIENCY HIGH. THE CARB AND OTHER SYSTEMS WERE DESIGNED TO BE REALLY EFFICIENT FOR "THEIR DAY", AS LONG AS THINGS ARE ADJUSTED A PERFECTLY AS POSSIBLE AND THE SYSTEMS ARE "IN SYNC"

I HAVE TRIED ALMOST ALL OF THE "GIMMICKS", FROM OPPOSING MAGNETS ON MY FUEL LINE--TO--THE OLE "TORNADO"

I BECAME OBSESSED WITH "MPGs"

I DID NOT CARE HOW MUCH THE COST WAS. EVEN IF MY "SAVINGS" NEVER WOULD "OFFSET" MY "GAIN"

.I HAD TO HAVE THE BRAGGING RIGHTS OF "I GET THIS MANY MPGs WITH MY 258 CJ 5!"

ON ONE OCCASION, I WAS ABLE TO SQUEEZE 16.7 MPG OUT OF A '79 BBD.W/ NO GIMMICKS. CONSISTENT 16 OR SO, WAS NOT UNCOMMON

THE "WEBER DGEV" PROMISED "UP TO" 20% MORE. IT WAS EZ TO JET AND CHANGE STUFF.I RECKON I JUST COULD'NT FIGURE OUT THE COMBINATION TO GET IT RIGHT. EVEN THOUGH I BOUGHT LOTS OF JETS AND OTHER GOODIES

ENTER "HOLLEY 390"

I GET ABOUT 18 MPG W/ MY HOLLEY, WHEN I DRIVE "NORMAL". THE O2 SENSOR AND AIR/FUEL RATIO GAUGE I INSTALLED AT THE SAME TIME AS THIS CARB, MADE JETTING EZer TO FIGURE OUT THAN THE WAYS I HAD TRIED WITH THE WEBER (HECK, LOOKING BACK, IF I HAD USED THE AIR/FUEL GAUGE W/ THE WEBER, IT MAY HAVE WORKED OUT A LOT BETTER)

ALTHOUGH I HAVE GOTTEN WHAT I WISHED FOR. YET

HERE'S MY "BRAG"---I GET 18 MPG! (NORMALLY)---I WAS ABLE TO "JET" REALLY FAST USING THE O2 METHOD

DOING THIS WITH A BBD IS PROBABLY NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE AS YOU MUST DISASSEMBLE THE WHOLE THING TO GET TO THE JETS AND AVAILABILITY OF METERING RODS AND JETS (WEBER AND HOLLEY, BASICALLY HAVE ACCESSES TO GET IN THERE)

I'M NO CARB MAN AS FAR AS THE "ENGINEERING END"---I STILL LEARN ALL THE TIME MYSELF
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, August 20th, 2012 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
HANG EM HI
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
Well I suppose you deserve an update. The jeep is running better than ever! Switched in the 79' BBD carb and she purrs like a kitten. I knew it was a good thing when I backed off the idle screw all the way to where the throttle was closed, and it still idled. I ended up putting in mid grade gas and actually timed the distributor more by ear than by the timing light. The engine will just barely click if I open the throttle all the way, but for the most part it doesn't click at all.

I drove her 200 miles to the beach with three friends the other weekend, and she did incredibly well. Was able to hold a steady 60-70mph with no shaking or wobble. Beautiful weekend too.

Once I get the cash I'll move onto the next thing, but for now, I'm just enjoying driving my well running CJ. Thanks again medic.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, September 5th, 2012 AT 3:53 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
WONDERFUL!

I'D STILL TIME IT WITH THE LIGHT---I THINK WE WENT OVER THE WHOLE DEAL. DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE AND PLUG THE VACUUM ADVANCE AND BE AT THE RIGHT IDLE SPEED. THEN RECONNECT THE LINE WHEN YOU ARE DONE!

CONTINUE TO WAVE AT THE OTHER "REAL JEEPS". AND THE WRANGLERS TOO. WAVING AT THE "STATION WAGON MODELS" IS OPTIONAL (THEY MAY BE DECEIVING--MANY ARE ONLY 2WD)

WANT ME AGAIN? COME BACK TO THIS POST AND KEEP ADDINGI MAY NOT SEE YOU IF YOU START A WHOLE NEW QUESTION

UPDATE ME FROM TIME TO TIME. PICS ARE NICE TOO!

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, September 5th, 2012 AT 7:43 PM
Tiny
HANG EM HI
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
Well, I suppose it's about time something broke again. I'm getting a metallic rubbing noise at low to mid speeds. It changes frequency/pitch when I rotate the steering wheel, and it goes away when I brake.

You guessed it. Time to overhaul the braking system. I think the rubbing is just the little metal warning pins telling me that I need to replace the brake pads. However, the shoes (and probably the drums) on the rear need to be replaced as well. Last time I tried bleeding the brakes, I couldn't get the bleeder screws out of the calipers on the front disc brakes because that whole assembly was rusted up like the titanic. So there is still a little air in the brake lines. Not the safest way to operate a jeep. I figure I should just give the whole system a restore. Might as well change the oil and rotate tires too while I'm at it.

I'll post pics and keep you updated when I start. Step one is just taking the wheels off and having a look-see. I'll post preliminary pics soon.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, October 8th, 2012 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
MAKE ME A LIST OFF ALL YOU WANT

DON'T BUY NUTHIN' YET. LET ME SHOW YOU THE $$$ SAVING TECHNIQUE

GIVEN?---SHOES / HARDWARE (SPRINGS--SELF ADJUSTERS--ETC)/ PADS/ L CALIPER/ R CALIPER/L WHEEL CYLINDER/ R WHEEL CYLINDER/ MASTER CYLINDER/ 2 LARGE CONTAINERS OF DOT 4 BRAKE FLUID

POSSIBLE NEW DRUMS AND ROTORS. ARE YOURS TURNABLE?

LIST ANYTHING ELSE YOU MIGHT NEED---SUBTRACT WHAT YOU DON'T NEED

ALL THE ABOVE ARE ITEMS (THIS IS EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF---FOR BOTH SIDES)

THE TOTAL RIGHT NOW IS.$344.66

IF YOU DROP STUFF LIKE THE DRUMS AND ROTORS IT WILL BE LESS

AS IT STANDS NOW. WE MAY CAN SAVE $40 PER HUNDRED. THAT'S $120 KNOCKED OFF OF THE $344

WANNA KNOW MORE. MAYBE I ALREADY HAVE? (I DID SORTA SKIM THRU YOUR POST AND DID NOT SEE IT)

GET YOUR LIST TOGETHER. REPORT BACK. WE'LL MAKE THE CHANGES AND GO FROM THERE!

RIGHT NOW, I HAVE ALL OF YOUR ITEMS IN A SHOPPING CART.I PICKED OUT DECENT PARTS (NOT NECESSARILY THE MOST EXPENSIVE)

WAITIN' ON YOU

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, October 9th, 2012 AT 2:02 AM
Tiny
HANG EM HI
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
That's a darn good deal. I'm in the process of moving. Finally. (I'll have a car port too, no more working on tarp covered dirt!) Once I get settled I'll jack her up and take a look and see what's needed. May not need drums, but probably everything else. Driving her yesterday (i know I know probably shouldn't with the brakes like this but couldn't help it), but the brake peddle would pop and make a noise every time I had to brake relatively hard which was every time I pulled up to a light. I think the rotors/calipers/pads are toast.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, October 9th, 2012 AT 2:53 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
TIME FOR YOU TO DO SOME ADDING/ ARRANGING

THE IDEA (WITH NEW DRUMS) IS TO ARRANGE THIS INTO 3 SEPARATE ORDERS--BARELY OVER $100 EACH....IF A FOURTH ONE IS NEEDED, SO BE IT...WE'LL (YOU'LL) SAVE ON IT TOO!

I THINK THE DRUMS ARE COUPLED TOGETHER AS 1 ITEM....SPLIT THEM UP IF YOU NEED TO, TO GET THE ORDERS "JUST OVER" THE $100 MARK

IN ORDER DO GET IT ALL ON HERE...I MADE 4 "SCREEN SHOTS" EVERYTHING THAT SHOULD SHOW, DOES SHOW IN THE SHOTS

THIS IS FROM ADVANCE AUTO----"FABU" IS STILL THE PERFECT PROMO TO DO THIS...YOU GOTTA USE IT FOR EACH ORDER!

OK---HERE'S HOW IT WORKS.....SEE MY 7th AND 8th ANSWER IN THIS POST

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1977-jeep-cj7-front-wheel-wont-into-4-low

I HAVE DONE THIS 3 TIMES IN THE LAST 3 WEEKS MYSELF---4 OTHER FRIEND DID IT TOO----ALONG WITH SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLE I TOLD AT THE STORE.....I HAVE SAVED $120 ALTOGETHER.......THE CODE DOES NOT WORK ON OIL PRODUCTS

NOW GET TO WORK---LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU COME UP WITH

TH LAST SHOT REFLECTS "REGULAR PRICE" IF EVERYTHING WAS BOUGHT IN ONE ORDER

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, October 9th, 2012 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
HANG EM HI
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
Hey Medic,
It's been a while, I know, but I finally got the brakes all shiny and new. However, that grinding sound didn't go away. While I was replacing the rear drum brake components, I noticed that the passenger side axle shaft had about a quarter inch of play back and forth. In other words, I could grab the shaft and pull it in and out just a hair. When I had it yanked all the way out, the bearings didn't roll very smoothly. They didn't roll all that smoothly with the shaft pushed back in either. I pulled the brake backing plate off and sure enough, the bearing was toast. Either it was a POS bearing or we didn't install it correctly. I knew that a flawless axle rebuild was too good to be true. Picture of the bearing below. Note the ridge that has been ground into the bottom part of the bearing. Hence the grinding sound. Reordering another set of bearings.

Think I installed it backwards? Hope you had a good Christmas season.
T
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 21st, 2013 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
CHRISTMAS WAS GOOD

DID NOT GET A BUNCH OF TOYS. DESPERATELY LOOKING FOR ANOTHER SERVICE ORIENTED PLUMBER TO WORK UNDER. I'M JUST NOT READY TO GO OUT ON MY OWN, I THINK THE HEADACHES MIGHT OUTWEIGH THE BENEFITS. BESIDES I HAVEN'T GOT ENOUGH CAPITAL UP TO START UP. THIS PART TIME AUTO PART JOB HELPS WITH SOME "NEW VEHICLE LEARNOLOGY". BARELY GETTING A LITTLE OVER MINIMUM WAGE IS FOR THE BIRDS. WIFE WANTS ME TO TAKE ON ANYTHING--NO MATTER WHAT."MEAT CUTTER" WAS THE LAST ONE SHE WANTED ME TO PURSUE. NOT ONLY WOULD BEING IN THE COLD MUFF ME UP (MINUS 5 DEGREES DURING RANGER SCHOOL BROKE ME FROM COLD ENVIRONMENTS) I WEAR LONG SLEEVES, MOST OF THE TIME, EVEN IN THE SUMMER---YOU WILL FIND NO LESS THAN TWO JACKETS AND/ OR COATS AND BLANKETS IN MY VEHICLES.I DON'T THINK I COULD KEEP MY HANDS "GREASE AND DIRT FREE" ENOUGH TO HAVE A JOB LIKE THAT.I NEED A MECHANICAL JOB IF I CANNOT FIND A JOB DOING WHAT I HAVE BEEN SCHOOL TRAINED FOR, I'VE BEEN PLUMBING SINCE 1989.

WE HAD THE--- "WHICH WAY DO THE BEARINGS GO" -- DISCUSSION BEFORE----I LOOKED BACK THRU THE POST.I THINK I SCANNED AND SENT YOU THE "MOSIER" (sp) INSTRUCTION SHEET FOR THE ONES I STILL HAVE IN THE BOX, ALONG WITH ALL NEW SEALS, AND AN EXTRA SET OF BEARINGS (BOUGHT LONG AGO [MAYBE 1994], NEVER INSTALLED)---THE AXLES ALONE WERE ABOUT $500

.I SENT IT TO YOU VIA EMAIL?

I COULD POSSIBLY STILL "SPIN" A HUB

IT'S ABOUT TIME FOR ONE OF MY REAR BEARINGS TO SHELL OUT

AMAZING HOW I HAVE DRIVEN THIS JEEP SINCE 1992--NEARLY EVERYDAY---MILES UNKNOWN---2 ENGINES---2 TRANNY REBUILDS--1 TRANSFER CASE REBUILD. THIS REAR END. AXLES. AND BEARINGS HAVE NOT BEEN TOUCHED

WHEN IT NEEDS THE BEARINGSIT WILL GET THE NEW ONE-PIECE AXLES!

AT THE SAME TIME I MIGHT DO THE DIFF. JUST FOR GIGGLES!

SO. DO YOU HAVE THE CORRECT INSTRUCTION SHEET FOR THE CROWN ONE-PIECE AXLES?

I'D MUCH RATHER HAVE THE "REAL INSTRUCTIONS" RATHER THAN "FREDDIE FREE-LOADER'S" OVER THE PHONE INSTRUCTIONS. AS HE TEXT--ES TO HIS NEWLY FOUND BAR HOPPIN' BABE THAT HE MET AT THE WATERING HOLE LAST NIGHT ON HIS GLOBAL SPACE STATION READY CELL PHONE

. MAYBE THAT'S WHAT HAPPENED LAST TIME WITH THE INFERIOR CELL PHONE HE DID HAVE?

I SEARCHED YOU TUBE FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES PRIOR TO REPLYING----COULD NOT FIND INFO ON THE AXLES

I MAY TRY "GOOGLING" TO SEE IF I CAN HELP YOU WITH THE CORRECT WAY

YOUR REAR SEEMS TO BE IN SUPER SHAPE. OTHER THAN THE AXLES. MINE WOULD FIT PERFECTLY!

. SHOULD THE WHOLE REAR TURN UP MISSING.I HAVEN'T SEEN IT!

KEEP ME POSTED FREQUENTLY WHILE HE IS SICK.I CAN'T BEAR TO KNOW ONE OF 'EM IS NOT ROAD WORTHY. TELL ME WHAT I NEED TO DO.

THE MEDIC
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 22nd, 2013 AT 3:02 AM
Tiny
HANG EM HI
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
Hang in there brother. You'll find that right job.

My bearings didn't look as bad as that guy's, but they could have gotten that bad if I had kept driving on them. Starting to make me think that either I have a bad set of axle shafts, or a bad axle tube. I found the original installation instructions for my set of axle shafts here.

http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/36659.pdf

Looks like we installed the bearings the right way. However, I didn't check that the bearings had the correct clearance pocking out of the axle housing. Methinks that's the problem. I hope it is. Sure is a lot better than ordering a brand new axle and having to do the whole darn thing over again. I called up Quadratec, and they're shipping me a set of bearings for free since they're still under the warranty. Once they get here, I'll check and see if they have the right clearance. In the meantime, I'll go ahead and see if I have a bent axle housing. That's not hard to do. Attach two meter sticks on either end of the tube and measure the distance between each side. The original manufacturers book gives the tolerances they're supposed to have.

If the new bearings don't have the right clearance, I'll buy a set of shims. Superior axle and gear's AMC 20 article said that this was a lot easier than grinding down the bearing like it recommends in the crown guide. If the tube is straight, the bearing clearance is set, and there is STILL end play, I'll just buy a new set of axle shafts.

And if that doesn't work!? Then I guess I'm buying a new set of Dana 40's. Hope it doesn't come to that. I'll keep you posted.
T
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 22nd, 2013 AT 4:43 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
THE 1ST SET I EVER BOUGHT---FROM?????----BACK IN ABOUT '85?

HAD ONE PIECE ROLLER BEARINGS, NOT TAPERED ONES......I NEVER HAD A PROBLEM, THIS WAS BEFORE "THE NET", SOLD THAT JEEP A FEW YEARS LATER........HEARD THRU THE GRAPEVINE, OTHERS (NOT THE JEEP I HAD PREVIOUSLY) HAD LOST THE REAR WHEEL AND AXLE, WHEN THE ROLLERS SHELLED OUT.........LOOKS LIKE IT WOULDA MADE A HECK OF A RACKET, LONG BEFORE IT COME OUT........SOME PEOPLE DON'T CARE, DRIVE IT ANYWAY, DESPITE OF THE "SCREAMS FOR HELP" GENERATING FROM THE REAR

THIS COULD BE THE REASON THE DESIGN IS NOW USING TAPERED BEARINGS

I'M NOT "MR. ON TOP OF EVERYTHING"---I'M NOT FACTORY TRAINED OR NONE OF THAT GOOD STUFF!......I TRY TO HELP ALL I CAN THRU MY OWN EXPERIENCES....I DO ATTEMPT TO LEARN ALL I CAN, USUALLY FROM NECESSITY, OR EVEN WHILE AIDING SOMEONE ELSE......NOT FROM SEARCHING ALL OVER AND SOAKING IT IN, LIKE IT WAS A HOBBY!.....................I DON'T RECKON MANY CAN SAY THEY HAVE HAD A CJ FOR A PRIMARY DRIVER.....THEIR WHOLE LIFE!

BEAR WITH ME ON SOME OF THIS STUFF

THE "MOSER" SET I STILL HAVE IN THE BOX, HAS TAPERED BEARINGS AND PRESS ON COLLARS.....THEY ARE AT MY M.OTHER'S HOUSE, IN MY STORAGE BUILDING....I'D PROBABLY HAVE TO LOOK AT 'EM TO SEE HOW THE BEARINGS GET PRELOADED (AS YOU KNOW WITH THE DIFF, CORRECT PRELOAD IS IMPORTANT)

TO SAVE ME A SEARCH (I RECKON YOU COULD CALL ME A EMAIL HOARDER, IN MY INBOX)--GO TO "MESSAGES" AND GIMME YOUR EMAIL AGAIN

NOW---ACTUALLY LUBING THE BEARINGS (ALL WHEEL BEARINGS AND ANY OTHER ONES THAT REQUIRE GREASE)----ALL BUT 90 WEIGHT LUBRICATED ONES (INTERNAL TRANNY/ TRANSFER CASE/ DIFF ARE EXCLUDED)

IF I HAVE NOT SHOWED YOU THIS ALREADY--HERE IT IS

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_cone-type-universal-bearing-packer-lisle_22982559-p?searchTerm=bearing+packer

WORTH IT'S WEIGHT IN GOLD!---

KEEP IT COMING

THE MEDIC

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 22nd, 2013 AT 5:46 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links