1985 Chevrolet Truck ignition

It depends on the type of ignition switch used on your truck. If it's down on the steering column, there is a linkage that goes down to it but it's less likely the switch is out of adjustment, and more likely there's a worn bushing or pivot pin that is letting the upper part of the column move. You may be able to compensate for that by readjusting the switch. They typically have two 5/16" screws that have to be loosened.

If you have the ignition switch in the upper part of the column, the wires going to it flex when you tilt the steering wheel. One is likely broken and it is still making contact when the wheel is tilted just right. That won't last long before it breaks completely.

If the switch is on the column, tilt the wheel down so it doesn't crank, then loosen the two mounting screws and shift the switch one way or the other a little until it cranks. Most push rods push the switch down to crank so you'd have to adjust it closer to the steering wheel.

If the switch is in the column, the assembly has to be removed and new wires fed through to the connector under the dash. If a new harness is available you can feed that down from above after the steering wheel is removed. On older vehicles you may have better luck using the old wires to pull new individual wires up, then you have to solder them. It's often easier to cut the old wires a few inches from the connector, then splice and solder the new wires to them and seal the connections with heat-shrink tubing. Never use electrical tape because it will unravel into a gooey mess on a hot day.