Mechanics

VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE DISTRIBUTOR PROBLEM

1974 Volkswagen Beetle • 150,000 miles

Hello, I was driving my beetle down the hwy at 60 mph and it just cut off. It turns over but is getting absolutly no fire. It is not a gas problem as I am getting gas. I replaced the coil, points, condenser, distibutor cap. I am getting 12 volts to the coil but I am not getting a spark AT ALL from the coil to dist. I am completly stumped. I have replaced the high voltage wire as well to the distibutor. Can anyone help?
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Mkimbrell
December 30, 2012.



Electronic / magnetic points (do not require adjustment / do not wear out).

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=397477

Make sure the wire from the points to the condensor pin is not touching ground somewhere... or that the wire got crimped between
the distributor housing and the distributor cap.

Thomas


Tiny
Exovcds
Dec 30, 2012.
Found a picture of a ground wire in the distributor that I was talking about. Circled in red in the attached file below.

Thomas


Tiny
Exovcds
Dec 31, 2012.
LOL. You didn't hook the reverse lights to the coil negative did you?

The reverse lights get power from coil + (#15). I had a customer who connected it to coil neg. Engine died every time reverse gear was used.


Tiny
Exovcds
Dec 31, 2012.
Here are the pictures and no I don't have the type of points you are referring to. Does it sound as if my new coil is already bad?


Tiny
Mkimbrell
Dec 31, 2012.
If the test light does not light up when attached to the coil neg (nothing else attached) and the key is ON, then yes, that coil primary circuit is burnt
out / has an open.

Try the old coil.

Is the bare wire in the distributor (circled above) OK?
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Tiny
Exovcds
Dec 31, 2012.
Is your Idle Cut-off solenoid also on coil negative? That would be the problem!


Tiny
Exovcds
Dec 31, 2012.
If you would have not circled that ground wire I would have NEVER know what you were talking about. Lol. I did find it hadn it is attached and not caught up in a bind. It does look old but it is attached at both ends and not severed. Also, I can't guarentee that I have never hooked up the back up lights to the negatvie side of the coil, but right now the only thing over there is the wire going to the points/condensor and on the positive side is the igniition, the back up lights, carburator, and the choke. Um one thing I did check is the ignition wire is giving me 12 volts and then there look like a ground that splits off this wire and grounds or goes to the bottom of the engine. Now, that wire has 12 volts on it also UNTIL I plug it to the ground (or whatever) then it drops to like 2.75 volts. I don't know if this is doing anything but.


Tiny
Mkimbrell
Dec 31, 2012.
Sorry for the runaround.

Just talking it out to myself: Coil + Power side: - power wire from front
- backup light wire
- idle cut-off solenoid

Coil - Side: - condenser wire
- tach (if equipped)

Remove any wires on the + side except for the actual power wire and the cut-off solenoid.

I'm not sure what other wire you are talking about that goes down to the engine (back-up lights possibly).

Re-test the old coil in the same way.


Tiny
Exovcds
Dec 31, 2012.
Hey partner, good news! I did the test on the old coil that you recommended and I DO get a solid light. Let me install it real quick and then go through the testing procedures you suggested. I have tried the old coil before and it still would not start but maybe using it will help me diagnose the other issue. Hang tight


Tiny
Mkimbrell
Dec 31, 2012.
Bud, Finally its done and I know this is going to sound wiered as wierd can get but here is the deal. I replaced the coil (placed the coil in that was good), turned the engine on and I be dang if the dern test light WILL NOT come on again when I connect the to the negative side. What the heck? Lol


Tiny
Mkimbrell
Dec 31, 2012.
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