Mechanics

SHOULD MY INTAKE MANIFOLD BE VERY HOT TO THE TOUCH?

1972 Volkswagen Beetle • 178,000 miles

My intake manifold is very hot.
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Buggylover
July 15, 2012.



It should be warm but not too hot. How does it run?

Roy


ASEMaster6371
Jul 15, 2012.
Runs fine no missing but sometimes it is hard to start after the engine gets hot.
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Tiny
Buggylover
Jul 15, 2012.
It could be vapor lock or something with the carb. Have you had it to a shop to check it out.

Off the top of my head, I would check the timing first.

Roy


ASEMaster6371
Jul 15, 2012.
Just had timing and carb set at shop. Could running the engine without the lid cause this problem?


Tiny
Buggylover
Jul 15, 2012.
TIMING PERFECT?

COULD YOUR MECHANICAL ADVANCE SPRING(S) BE BROKE AND NOW THERE IS NO ADVANCE?

MAYBE IT'S POINT ADJUSTMENTS?

RID YOURSELF OF THAT PROBLEM!

I INSTALLED THIS SET UP AND THEIR FLAMETHROWER COIL INTO MY '46 WILLYS JEEP---I HAVE SEEN OTHER VEHICLES USING THEM TOO....I WISH I HAD DISCOVERED THEM EARLIER, THIS SET-UP REALLY MAKES ME GRIN!

http://www.acmejeepparts.com/products/17612_007.htm

HERE'S A LINK THAT WILL GUIDE YOU TO THE CORRECT ONE FOR YOUR RIG--I MAY BE ABLE TO AID YOU IN FINDING THE LESSER EXPENSIVE DEALER, BEFORE YOU ORDER IT

http://www.pertronix.com/catalogs/pdf/ptx/2010/Pertronix2010.pdf

IT'S EZ AND QUICK TO INSTALL, I KEEP MY OLD "PLATE" W/ MY POINTS UNDER MY BACK SEAT, JUST IN CASE MY "IGNITOR SYSTEM" WERE TO FAIL.....I COULD HAVE IT BACK TOGETHER AND TEMPORARILY TIMED BY EAR IN LESS THAN 5 MINUTES

READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE NEED FOR A BALLAST RESISTOR OR RESISTANCE WIRE....MINE ORIGINALLY USED A BALLAST RESISTOR USING POINTS, I LEFT IT ON THERE, BUT JUST "PIGGYBACKED" THE OTHER TERMINAL, SHOULD I NEED TO REVERT BACK, I WILL MOVE THE WIRE BACK TO IT'S ORIGINAL TERMINAL

HERE'S SOME PICS OF MINE

WHACHU THINK?

THE MEDIC



Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Jul 15, 2012.
I RECKON I COULDA SAID THAT BETTER THE 1ST TIME

SPRING BROKE---STAYS ADVANCED (EVEN AT IDLE)

UNLESS YOU SEE YOUR TIMING IS OFF!---THEN YOU (UNKNOWINGLY) "RESET IT" CORRECTLY----REALLY, NOW,

. IT'S ADVANCED FULLY, BUT NOW IT'S SET BACK TO CORRECT IDLE TIMING. BUT STILL IS UNABLE TO ADVANCE MORE (THE WEIGHTS REMAIN SLUNG OUTWARD, UNABLE TO RETURN). AS YOU ACCELERATE IT WILL "HOLD BACK"

VERIFY YOUR ADVANCES WORK

IF YOU HAVE A VACUUM ADVANCE, PLUG IT OFF. TEST FOR ADVANCE BY THROTTLING THE ENGINE. YOUR TIMING MARKS SHOULD ADVANCE AS YOU GO HIGHER, OFF OF THE ORIGINAL TIMING MARK (WATCHING WITH A TIMING GUN)

YOU CAN ALSO HOOK MANIFOLD VACUUM (NOT PORTED VACUUM) EVER SO SLOWLY TO THE VACUUM LINE N. IPPLE ON YOUR DISTRIBUTOR. YOU WILL SEE THE TIMING MARK JUMP (ADVANCE) IF IT IS WORKING RIGHT

THIS CAN BE DONE WITH A VACUUM GUN TOO---BUT, WHY BUY ONE WHEN YOU ALREADY HAVE VACUUM AVAILABLE?

I'M NOT A VW KINDA GUY---I HAVE DEALT WITH THE MECHANICAL ADVANCE SPRINGS BREAKING ON OLD PRESTOLITE JEEP CJ DISTRIBUTORS MANY TIMES. WHICH WE USUALLY UPGRADE TO THE LATER MOTORCRAFT DISTRIBUTOR

AS FAR AS FUEL DEPRIVATION POSSIBILITIES

---WHEN IT ACTS UP, IMMEDIATELY GIVE IT A SHOT OF ETHER OR FUEL DOWN THE CARB, SHOULD IT BUST OFF NORMALLY OR EVEN TRIES A LITTLE HARDER THAN BEFORE. IT COULD BE A FUEL ISSUE AND NOT AN IGNITION ISSUE

KEEP US INFORMED

THE MEDIC


Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
Jul 15, 2012.

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