1970 Jeep CJ5 Repair Question
Why doesn't the bell housing fork center on my clutch?
I have rebuilt a 1970 CJ5, but after replacing the clutch, it is apparent the transmission fork does not center on the transmission.
The transmission is rebuilt and I even ordered a new bell housing and fork that was guaranteed to fit the T14, but it fits the exact same as the original; off center. The mechanic replacing the clutch for me brought this to my attention and says that is probably why my clutch wore out so fast.
Any help would be appreciated. The transmission printing says, Spicer on one side and 13 02 065 906.
The link is a picture of what it is looking like.
SPOTA SORTA LOOK LIKE MY '77 CJ 5 W/258 AND A T-150 TRANNY......I RECENTLY HAD TO PULL THE TRANNY 7 TIMES, DUE TO FUNKY SHIFTING....FINALLY WOUND UP BEING THE NEW 2ND-3RD SYNCRONIZER WAS MACHINED WRONG (1ST TIME OUT, I REPLACED EVERYTHING INSIDE WITH A FULL KIT)....I TOOK THIS PIC THE LAST TIME I PULLED IT
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR PARTS?
BELL HOUSING AND FORK ARE NEW?
GOT THE PART NUMBERS?
IS THIS YOUR FORK?.....3RD ITEM TO THE RIGHT ON THE TOP ROW
I'M STILL LOOKING FOR A SITE WITH THE BELL HOUSING AND A T-14A TRANNY
I'M HERE TILL YOU QUIT RESPONDING BACK.....I HAVE MORE EXPERIENCE W/ CJs '76-'86 AND WILLYS '41 AND UP W/ 134 FLATHEAD....ANY MORE INFO?
YOU'RE NOT DOIN' THIS YOURSELF?
HAVE YOU GOT ANYTHING FIGURED OUT YET?
Sorry for the late reply. I was out of town on business. In response to your previous questions, the mechanic ordered the clutch kit. It's a Sachs k1874-03. The second bell housing and fork were ordered online and are replicas of each other leading me to believe they are the correct part. The fork looks to be the same exact one you have pictured (top row 3rd from right).
ORIGINALLY, YOUR BABY DID NOT HAVE A "DIAPHRAGM TYPE" PRESSURE PLATE.....(MINE DIDN'T EITHER IN MY '77 W/258 INLINE 6, BUT THE DIAPHRAGM ONE THAT I RESEARCHED FOR A NEWER CJ FIT PERFECTLY)
MAYBE YOURS IS TOO HIGH?
MAYBE THERE'S ANOTHER HOLE FOR THE PIVOT IN THE HOUSING?
I'M GONNA SQUARE YOU AWAY WITH SOME INFO---SOME OF IT'S HARD TO SEE, AS IT LOOKS LIKE IT WAS MANUALLY SCANNED DIRECTLY FROM THE FACTORY MANUALS. NEVER THE LESS, IT IS THE BEST REPAIR MANUAL YOU CAN HAVE FOR YOUR JEEP. THEY SORTA JUST COPIED ONE MANUAL FOR EACH "TYPE" OF JEEP.
YOU WILL NEED TO SEE THE "1973" MANUAL FOR YOURS----LOOK UNDER "CLUTCH" THEN YOU WILL FIND THE "HEIGHT SPECS" IN THE PAGES
HERE YOU GO
KEEP ME POSTED ON WHAT YOU FIND....OR KEEP HOLLERING BACK WITH ANYTHING I MIGHT BE ABLE TO RUN WITH
Ok, turned out the remanufactured fork was a little shorter than what was needed. Solved that problem but the throw out bearing is still not engaging the pressure plate. It's a good 1.5 inches away. I've ordered an adjustable throw out bearing but it's still about an inch too short. We're thinking the fly wheel may have been worked on a bit too much. Thoughts?
KINDA CAN'T SEE YOUR THROW OUT BEARING WELL IN YOUR PIC
I'M GONNA SLING OUT A FEW (IN LINKS) LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU GOT
DON'T BUY NUTHIN' ELSE TILL YOU TALK WITH ME...I MAY CAN HELP IN THE SAVINGS DEPARTMENT
HERE'S A FULL SET...IS THIS WHAT YOU GOT?
HERE'S A THROW OUT FROM THE ZONE...JUST ONE CRAPPY VIEW
VIEW IS STILL CRAPPY IN THIS LINK
MAYBE YOU CAN SEND A PIC OF THE "SNOUT" ON THE FRONT OF YOUR TRANNY
SEND THE DIMENSIONS OF YOUR CLUTCH DISC
RIGHT NOW I'M GOING OUTSIDE TO TAKE A PIC OF MY TRANNY "SNOUT" ON "WILLY", MY 1946 WILLYS CJ-2A
I'M IN THE PROCESS OF REPLACING MY "TRASHED" 20 YEAR OLD THROW OUT BEARING
THIS SORTA HAPPENED A FEW WEEKS AGO....I ONLY CRIED WHEN NO ONE WAS LOOKIN'
OF COURSE---I'M GONNA CHANGE THE REST OF THE CLUTCH SYSTEM TOO. ALONG WITH A NEW GEAR RING, AND HAVE THE FLYWHEEL SURFACED. MY DISC STILL LOOKS REALLY NEW AFTER 20 YEARS (IT'S LEAVING TOO)
I'M GONNA REPLACE THE INPUT SEAL AND BOTH OUTPUT SEALS.
WHILE I'M AT IT, THE BELL-CRANKS AND ALL PIVOTS ARE GONNA BE MODIFIED AND ROLLER BEARINGS INSTALLED (A MOD I DID TO MY '77 CJ 5--LITTLE FRICTION, AND THE RODS AND THEIR "FEMALE ROD HOLES", WILL NO LONGER "SAW" THRU EACH OTHER)
WHEN THEY DO SAW THRU EACH OTHER...THE CLUTCH ENGAGES AND YOU CRASH INTO WHATEVER IS AHEAD OF YOU OR YOU ARE LEFT STRANDED...OR YOU ARE FORCED TO CRANK UP "IN (A) GEAR" AND DRIVE UNTIL YOU FORCE THE SHIFTER INTO NEUTRAL TO STOP.
I'VE DONE THIS WITH BOTH OF MY JEEPS. THE CJ 5 (MR. JEEP) NO LONGER HAS THAT PROBLEM..."WILLY" WILL BE MODIFIED REALLY SOON
"WILLY" HAS A T-90C TRANNY AND A L-134 (FLATHEAD)---THIS SAME CLUTCH SET WAS USED FROM 1941--INTO THE '70s, FOR SURE, ON THE L AND F HEAD ENGINES
MY EXPECTED SPENDING
1) CLUTCH SET--- DISC, PRESSURE PLATE, THROW-OUT BEARING, AND AN ALIGNMENT TOOL...........$84 + TAX....USING MY NEWLY FIGGERED OUT METHOD OF BUYING
2) GEAR RING-- $25
3) FLYWHEEL MACHINING--$25
4) SEALS---APPROX $15
5) MODIFICATION BEARINGS + STUFF FOR THE BELL-CRANKS--LESS THAN $40
6) PAINT & MISC--- $10
A FEW OF MY PICS OF THE '77 CJ 5 BELL-CRANK MODIFICATION WITH BEARINGS
1) END CHOPPED OFF--RING CONTAINING BEARING WITH RETAINER CLIP CENTERED AND WELDED OVER OLD ROD HOLE
2) CLIP AND WASHER REMOVED--YOU CAN SEE THE ROLLER BEARING INSIDE THE RING
3) CLUTCH PEDAL WAS REMOVED, THE OLD HOLE WAS "HOLE-SAWED" OUT LARGER, RING WELDED IN NEW HOLE--BEARING INSTALLED--ROD INSTALLED---SAME SET UP AS THE BELL-CRANK END
4) THIS IS THE CRAPPY ORIGINAL SET UP...THE NYLON PIVOTS DO NOT LAST LONG...ROD AND HOLES SAW EACH OTHER IN HALF.....THE "Z" CLOTHES HANGER ROD REPRESENTS THE 3/8 ROD BETWEEN THE PEDAL AND BELL-CRANK ("REAL ROD" NOT SHOWN IN MY PIC)
5) SPHERICAL PLANE BEARINGS TAKE THE PLACE OF THE "NYLON PIVOTS"----THE ANGLE IRON "STUDS" WERE GROUND AND KNOCKED OUT---GRADE 8 BOLTS WITH THE THREADS CUT OFF ARE WELDED IN PLACE OF THE OLD STUDS...THE SPHERICAL PLANE BEARINGS RIDE ON THE BOLT'S SHOULDERS
6) USING PAPER--I BLANKED OUT WHAT WAS CHOPPED OFF--SORTA SHOWS MY NEW SYSTEM...IF YOU CAN FIGGER IT OUT......SMALL BRASS TUBES ON THE BOLT SHOULDERS SPACE THE SPHERICAL PLANE BEARINGS INTO THE BELL-CRANK TUBE
7) THIS IS HOW THE BELL-CRANK LOOKS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FIREWALL
OK--HEADED INTO THE GARAGE TO TAKE THE PICS---I'LL POST 'EM IN THE NEXT 30 MINUTES----I WANT YOU TO SEE "MY" THROW OUT SET UP
OK HERE THEY ARE
1) MY BABY, "WILLY"
2) TRANNY AND TRANSFER CASE
3) THE BEARING IS PRESSED ONTO THE CAST IRON (SHUTTLE?) THAT SLIDES ON THE SNOUT---SPRING IS ON THE OTHER SIDE---THE BALL PIVOT IS ON THIS SIDE FOR THE FORK TO PIVOT ON...WHAT'S YOUR SET UP LOOK LIKE? COULD THIS BE WHERE YOU WOULD MAKE UP THE LENGTH YOU NEED (THE SHUTTLE PART)
4) FORK INSTALLED (IT WILL HAVE TO REALLY BE INSTALLED THRU THE FOOTBALL OPENING ON TOP OF THE BELL HOUSING)
5) LOOKING STRAIGHT DOWN ON IT
6) 15 DAMAGED TEETH (STILL CRANKED FINE) SOME ARE WORSE THAN OTHERS
7) DISC--20 YEARS OF MODERATE USE
8) LOOKS AS THICK AS IT DID NEW
9) BELL-CRANK I'M GONNA PUT BEARINGS IN IT AND IT'S LINKAGES
10) I MARK EVERY NUT AND BOLT STUCK INTO THE CARDBOARD---THEY ALL GO BACK EXACTLY WHERE THEY COME FROM
THE "THUMB ONE" WILL COME UP IF YOU CLICK ON IT
Thanks for staying with me on this. I travel for a living hence the delayed responses. I'll hopefully be picking up the jeep from the mechanic tomorrow. He didn't sound too confident in his work though. The last issue was that the throw out bearing wasn't reaching the pressure plate with the allotted play from the fork. We ordered an adjustable throw out bearing that gave an additional .5inches but it is still short. I've never installed a clutch, but could it have been improperly installed? I was not having this problem when I took the jeep in. Just baffled at this point.