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No starter operation engine not cranking over?

Tiny
RVDORNBUSCH
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 SATURN AURA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 178,000 MILES
My car was having problems to where it would start to stall while driving and the service traction and engine power reduced light came on. It would cool down and then start up again but after a few minutes it would have issues again. I took it to a garage and they said it could be the engine fuse box. And also in a few forums people have described the same issue and said once, they changed the fuse box it would work fine. So, I bought a fuse box from eBay, it was used, thinking I could test the theory. I replaced the box but now the engine wont crank. The lights come on and dash lights also but not starting. And now the power steering light is on along with service traction and no traction light. Could I have bought a bad fuse box or could it be something different. Again, before it was changed it out the car started. Now nothing.
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Tuesday, September 10th, 2019 AT 5:18 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

That can be caused by several things, a bad fuse box, bad fuses, pins in the new used fuse box that are corroded and not making contact, a bad ground, and the list goes on.

Lets start easy. I need you to first check the starter fuse in the under hood fuse box. Also, check the starter relay and the ground. See pic 1.

If the box came with all the old fuses and relays still in it, remove the ones I mentioned and check for power at the starter fuse and switch the relay with one that has the same part number. If there isn't one, here is a link that explains how one is checked:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Here are a few additional links you may find helpful or may not need based on your knowledge:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find or if you have other directions. Please keep in mind, if it did come with all the fuses and relays included, make sure they are the same and all are present. Compare it to the old box. Keep in mind, it may have been out of the vehicle for a long period of time and outdoors. Make sure corrosion isn't an issue.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, September 11th, 2019 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
OEGIRL29
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2008 SATURN AURA
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 161,800 MILES
Recently suffered flood damage. Car would not run, replaced BCM and car was fine except air would not work. In the process of getting the air repaired the mechanic did something to cause the car to stop running again. Here are the facts: while checking fuses for AC controls under hood and in BCM he unplugged the battery, and when he was testing the fuses he connected the battery back and I noticed a message saying "reduced engine power " So we tried to crank the car and it would not start. You can hear the engine attempting to start and crank but it will not. Car had all power inside, radio, windows, dash lights etc. So he returned back to the battery and under-hood fuse box where we heard a clicking coming from an unknown place under the hood, the clicking sounds like the clicking of an ink pen -click, click. Like one click per second. After testing all fuses we discovered the clicking would only stop after unplugging the "power train control" fuse, battery has been checked and seems fine. Any ideas?
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,787 POSTS
Hello,

In flood situations its best to unplug all sensors and the computers and let is all dry out. If this has been done and the battery replaced the main PCM has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Here is its location and you will need to have it programmed.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CUTOPLE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2008 SATURN AURA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
My radio come on but my window barely roll up. My lights come on so im thinking its not the battery, when I try to crank the car it just clicks but dont crank. The lights cone on and I see a securty light that shows the car with a lock by it on the light. This has happened before but I git a boost and no more problems until now. PLEASE HELP
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Just because your head lights work doesn't mean you're battery is good. Your window takes more power then your lights and your starter takes more power then both those. make sure your battery cables are clean and tight? Lets start with that. These guides can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMIKA CRUZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 SATURN AURA
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 209,000 MILES
When putting the key in the ignition, the car does not crank or start. However, the anti-theft light and engine light come on. What could be the reason for this? How can I fix it?
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,935 POSTS
The anti-theft light being on means it does not recognize the key you have. You could try a security reset but it is doubtful that is the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

More likely the antenna that reads the transponder key has failed or the reader module in the BCM has failed. A shop with a dealer level scan tool can run tests to determine which is the issue. Without the scan tool there is not much that can be done but to sure what you need please visit this new guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please run down these guides and report back.

Cheers
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+1
Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MORRIS
  • MEMBER
  • 0 POST
Thanks for this post. I found out from the guide the battery cable was loose. All fixed not charge! Lol love it.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLAKE SMITH
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 SATURN AURA
  • 3.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
When hot no crank, no starter signal from start relay, relay test 83 ohms, power and ground at terminals in fuse box, ECM shows crank request-yes in pid, purple/white from 26 in ECM connector c1 shows a voltage drop to.034 when the no crank occurs this voltage gradually increases to.470 at that voltage the car starts again (5-10 minutes) peak voltage is about 1 v during start up. Pretty sure this is a ECM failure, but the flow chart I have access to has no information on what the spec is for this wire.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RENEE L
  • ADMIN
  • 1,257 POSTS
This sounds like a security module problem, I will have our Saturn guy help you.
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-1
Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
If you unplug the ecm and the relay and measure the resistance of that wire end to end you should see 2 ohms or less. Also the first thing I would have done was do a full code scan of every computer on the car.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HAROLD ESTABROOKS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 SATURN AURA
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Okay my car will not start from the ignition I thought it was the starter nope. Checked all fuses all good. So now I ran a wire from starter to the battery and it started. My gauges on my dash work for about fifteen minutes and then stop. Could it be bad ignition switch? I was told by the dealer that the car should not be running the way I have it now. I get code p1682 from my code reader. Please help.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,787 POSTS
Yes that code is for an ignition switch failure.

Here are some diagrams (below) of how the job is done:

Remove the instrument cluster.
Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder.
Remove the ignition and start switch bolts (1).
Separate the ignition and start switch (2) from the instrument panel.
Disconnect any electrical connectors.
Disconnect the park lock cable from the ignition and start switch.
Remove the theft deterrent control module.
Remove the ignition and start switch bracket bolts.
Remove the ignition and start switch bracket.

Please let us know what happens and upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LMYOUNG
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 SATURN AURA
  • 3.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Our car would not start this morning. When we turned the key it acted like it wanted to turn over but couldn't. So we replaced the starter and now that the new starter is in it won't even crank over. If you're standing by the engine you can hear a clicking sound coming from the engine when the key is turned over to start the car.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good evening,

Can you upload a video of the noise so I can hear it?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

I would start with basics and check the battery voltage.

Beyond that, we need to do some voltage checks.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANGSAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2007 SATURN AURA
  • 3.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 199,500 MILES
Before battery died completely, starter seemed to run on, solenoid stayed engaged. Changed battery, afterward car won't make any attempt to start. All lights come on, key fobs do not work. Mechanic stated wasn't getting power to starter.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,117 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

This could be the result of a bad relay or fuse. I attached two pics below. The first shows the wiring schematic for the starter. Also, it indicates which fuses power the relays. The second pic is of the under hood fuse box near the battery. I highlighted the fuses and relays that I need you to check.

Here are links that will help with the testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

________________________________

Now, I'm basing this on the idea there is no power to the S terminal on the starter. That terminal should only get power when the key is in the start position. Take a look through this link. It explains how to test a starter for power.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please keep in mind, if everything checks good, it could even be related to the neutral safety switch. So, see if it cranks when the vehicle is in neutral.

I hope something here helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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Thursday, January 14th, 2021 AT 8:24 AM (Merged)

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