There's two version of the 2.0L engine. There is a very elusive problem with the single-camshaft engine that causes intermittent stalling, but it doesn't apply to the dual camshaft engine. Regardless, it sounds like you have something else going on. Looking at the combination of no diagnostic fault codes and wiggling a wire allows the engine to run intermittently, a good suspect is a bad connection in the wire that supplies the constant 12 volts to the Engine Computer to keep its memory alive. That's the red / white wire in the second connector drawing. If that is the case, losing that connection will erase the fault codes, and it will erase everything the computer has in memory. That doesn't cause a problem as far as learned sensor "personalities" or fuel trim data is concerned. That will all be relearned as soon as you start driving, without you even noticing, but there is one thing that won't be relearned until you're out on the highway. That is "minimum throttle". Until that is relearned, idle speed will be too low, often to the point the engine will not start or it will not stay running unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4".
You really need a scanner to be able to see what the Engine Computer is seeing and reacting to. Without that, there's no way to verify one of the 12-volt supply circuits is missing to the computer, or what else is affecting it, but we can do some of the tests manually. You can look at this article:
but for this type of problem it is better to leave the electrical connector plugged in at the computer, and to back-probe through the back of the connector where the wires go in. There may be a cover to remove from each connector to gain access to the wires. A voltmeter's probe can be too fat to squeeze in alongside the wire. Use a sewing needle or a stretched-out paper clip instead. Slide that in next to the wire, then touch the meter's probe to it. You might have to wiggle the needle a little to insure it is touching the terminal.
You should see 12 volts on the red / white wire all the time. It will only be on the dark blue / white wire when the ignition switch is in the "run" position. The third one, the dark green / orange wire is a little tricky. That one is only going to have 12 volts on it for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. Most digital voltmeters don't respond fast enough to catch that. A test light will work much better. In fact, for this type of problem, a test light can be more accurate than the digital meter for all of the tests.
You might be able to hear the hum of the fuel pump for that one second when you turn on the ignition switch. If you can, that proves the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay is working, but we still need to verify the 12 volts it switches on is making it to the Engine Computer. That's the dark green / orange wire. Besides it getting 12 volts for one second, what is important is if that voltage comes back when you crank the engine. If it does not come back, but it was there for one second, we have to go in a different direction.
Normally there's four 12-volt feed circuits, but I only see these three that I pointed out. The connector views are of the terminals, not the back side where the wires go in, so be sure to get the right wire colors. A break in the ground circuit can cause the engine to not run too, just like a break in a 12-volt feed wire can, but Chrysler has always used pairs of ground wires to insure that doesn't happen. For that reason failure is not likely and we won't worry about checking those at this time.
Images (Click to enlarge)
Tuesday, January 21st, 2020 AT 3:58 PM