Wont crank up and start or just dies going down the road.

  • 1 POST
  • 1994 DODGE RAM
  • 0.9L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • 220,000 MILES

One day it will run fine, come and go. Next time ut may get us up the road then just shut of and will start back up while still rolling. Then again, we may sit 10 mins to an hour before it will crank again. Tried a new ignition coil pack, that didn't fix it. Any ideas?

Do you
have the same problem?
Saturday, August 27th, 2016 AT 6:05 PM

1 Reply

  • 29,782 POSTS

"Then again, we may sit 10 mins to an hour before it will crank again"

Not cranking is referring to the starter motor not spinning the engine which is different than stalling while driving. Are you sure that's what you were trying to say?

You need to list the correct engine size when you have an engine running problem because they have very different ignition and fuel supply systems. The 5.2L 318 was the most common engine but there are others. The first thing is to read and record any diagnostic fault codes. Chrysler made doing that yourself much easier than any other manufacturer. Cycle the ignition switch from "Off" to "Run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine, leave it in "Run", then count the flashes of the Check Engine light. You'll get a series of flashes for the first digit of the code, a short pause, then a series of flashes for the second digit. A longer pause, then that repeats for the next code if there is one. The last code will be "55" meaning it's done and that's all the codes there are. If you think you miscounted, turn the ignition switch off, then right back on one time and the sequence will start over. With some Engine Computers the sequence will keep repeating as long as the ignition switch is on until you engage the starter, even for a fraction of a second.

The most common causes of what you described are the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. Quite often the engine coasts to a stop before the computer has time to detect the missing signal. It knows there won't be a signal from either sensor when the engine isn't rotating, so it will not set a code after the engine has stalled. For that reason, you can't assume those sensors are good just because there's no fault code related to them. I have Chrysler's DRB2 and DRB3 scanners for my personal vehicles and those list the two sensors with a "No" or "Present" during cranking to tell you if the Engine Computer is seeing the signals from them. That's the fastest way to know where to start looking, but that only is valid when the no-start condition is present.

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Saturday, August 27th, 2016 AT 11:29 PM

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