Power windows not working

Hello,

Here are some guides and diagrams (below) to help you do some testing on the fuses so you can get the problem fixed. It is the same fuse for windows, door locks and mirrors. You may also have to check the wiring harness that goes into the driver door, hinge side. With the driver door getting the most action, sometimes those wires break. For the power windows, under hood fuse box, fuse #f12 - 50 amp.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Also the TIPM can be out which is common and easy to replace because it self initializes, here are instructions and diagrams for that as well (below).

Check out the diagrams for the fuse location and the wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works. (below). Please let us know what happens.

I would check voltage and ground for any circuit that doesn't work. Check the wiring harness that goes into driver door. That harness gets a lot of work every time you open and shut that doors, broken wires are not uncommon.

Just to add, the wiring harness that goes into your driver door on the hinge side probably has protective rubber boot covering. Pull the covering back far enough to see wire colors. Orange wire with white tracer is voltage for power windows, hot all the time. Use a test light to check for voltage. The black wire is ground, check it also.

If window fuse has good power then check window switch with volt meter or test light to see if they work if they work and motor does not then check for broken wire in door jamb as that is pretty common. Also, see picture for a tip on windows not working.

I just tried to search out a post that people constantly add to over the years. There were other experts who also answered it.

I just got a notification that it was added to about a week ago (I did not reply, as it was just a "I had the same problem" and a "thank you") Without my replying, I was unable to look through my recent "My Replies" to find it quickly.

Next best thing though,

Maybe you did not check the black wire thorough enough, It seems that it has been the culprit in the many, many replies of that post of multiple pages, that I cannot find at the present time.

I was able to find a Sunday, July 10, 2011 off-shoot from that even older question/ Pay attention to the location of the problem/ see my link!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2000-jeep-grand-cherokee-has-lost-its-mind

Let's hear some good news!

The Medic

See picture for panel removal switch may be held in with springs/screws or clips.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken

Windows are considered a safety system, so they will use an auto-resetting circuit breaker, not a fuse. Look first for broken or frayed wires between the driver's door hinges inside the rubber boot where the wires pass from the body to the door.

See the attached guide for switch testing/replacement as well as the attached wiring diagram.

Let us know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/electric-window-repair

As far as the windows, did you check for voltage at the fuse? If nothing else, twist the wire ends together, solder, use electrical tape and shrink tubing. I do not know what type connector you were using? They make one that clips onto the wires and cuts into the wires at the same time.

The tan wire with lite blue tracer should be hot going into driver door. The black wire is ground.

If the applicable fuse has a bare spot over each leg, no need to pull the fuse. If the fuse circuit shows to be hot all the time, just use a voltage tester on the bare spot over each leg, if both bare spots are hot, you know the fuse is good and there is voltage on the fuse circuit. Even if the fuse is good, if no voltage to the fuse, the circuit is bad. If you already checked all this, we will try something else. The fuse in the diagram is for the power windows.