Want to know its a safe buy

Tiny
CODY97
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 117,000 MILES
I am looking to buy this 2003 chevy silverado it has thunder racing 220/220 cam, cam dual valve springs, trick flow push rods, 706 heads, 42 lb injectors, pacesetter ceramic coated 1 3/4 primary long tube headers, pacesetter 3" y pipe with 3" exhaust and hooker earochamber muffler with k&n intake. It also has 4L65e 5 pinion planetaries with a tci torque converter that has a slightly higher stall than stock. It has b&m transmission cooler, with 8000miles on rebuilt tranny. Than it has. 3.73 gears and new seals and bearings in front differential. I just want to know if it would be a good buy and if it would be a good everyday drive
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Wednesday, February 12th, 2014 AT 11:16 AM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
You have got to be kidding. The owner is selling it for a reason. Cold air intake systems are counter-productive. The idea is you can pack more air into the cylinders if it is cooled and condensed, but you have to add more fuel to take advantage of that air. The rest of us accomplish the same thing by pushing further on the accelerator pedal. The only time they provide a benefit is at wide-open-throttle. Engines can already reach red line without hitting wide-open-throttle. How much more do you want?

Also understand that liquid gasoline does not burn. It has to be turned into a vapor, otherwise it will go out the tail pipe, wasted. With older cars with carburetors, we added a choke to draw in a lot of fuel in hopes a high enough percentage would vaporize in cold weather so the engine would run right. That is done today with computer controls that are programmed to provide the perfect mixture under all conditions. Why would you want to do away with that with a cold air system? The goal of intake systems since the beginning of engines is to warm the air.

Headers usually mean the catalytic converters and oxygen sensors are gone. Even if the Engine Computer can be reprogrammed to not look for the oxygen sensor signals, with them missing it will suspend any self-tests that use them for comparison or reference. A minor problem could develop that results in a hesitation or stumble on acceleration but it would not be detected or set a diagnostic fault code. Without a code to indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis, you will never figure out where to start looking. No mechanic will want to work on it because being not stock, no one will have any training on it or know how things are supposed to work. A lot of minor problems turn into serious ones if they're ignored long enough.

The Engine Computer fine tunes fuel / air mixture based on the oxygen sensor readings. You need the exhaust of all four cylinders grouped together when it goes through the catalytic converter and that has to be done as soon as possible so the gas doesn't have time to cool down. Oxygen sensors don't work until they reach 600 degrees.

I have no clue what a 42 pound injector is. Most multi-point fuel systems run around 50 to 55 pounds of pressure. Injectors have nothing to do with building or maintaining fuel pressure.

Stronger valve springs are used at very high engine speeds to prevent "valve float". We use them on race engines that are run for long periods at more than 6,000 rpm. How often do you plan on driving with the pistons and connecting rods flying around that fast, and how long do you expect the engine to hold up?

A higher-lift camshaft gives you the ability to allow more air to get into the cylinders but you're still limited by the volume of the cylinder. Once the cylinder is filled with air, no more is going to go in regardless of how long you hold that valve open. Changing the duration and overlap of the valves changes the personality of the engine and the rpm range with the greatest torque. You can do the same thing by changing cam timing two degrees with offset dowel pins, offset keyways, or offset cam sprockets. Think of "T" for "top", and "tight". If the timing chain is too tight, (or advanced) two degrees, you'll increase torque on the top end. That's what they do on race engines. Think of "L" for "low", "loose", and "late". With a loose timing chain or one that is late, torque increases on the low end. That's what they do on motor home engines to help them get going at stop signs. Lots of torque on the low end but you'll need miles on the highway to pass someone. I have a 440 c.I. Out of a police highway cruiser. It goes from 0 to 60 like any little six cylinder car, then it comes alive and will tear the seats off the hinges. That's with no other special camshaft or headers or any other modifications.

If you want a truck that can tear buildings off their foundations, test-drive a Dodge Cummins diesel. I have a friend who specializes in rebuilding smashed one and two-year-old Dodge products. He currently owns three Dodge dually diesels. The last one is a 2012 that he put together 60 percent each of two frames to make an 8' box Mega Cab. The truck is too long to fit in his garage. He has an '07 with oversize turbo and oversize injectors, with a chip, for pulling a three-car hauler and his 32' camper. The cruise control will maintain 70 mph up steep hills with those trailers as he blows by the other trucks struggling to keep up. AND, when driving normally with no trailer, 24 mpg is easy to achieve. You won't get close to that with any gas engine in any full-size truck.

I can pretty much guarantee once the "wow" factor wears off, you're going to be disappointed with this truck. The days of modifying and customizing engines is long gone thanks to your politicians and the tree-huggers. Stick with the stupid-looking skinny wheels and fake dual exhaust. This is not a truck for daily driving. It isn't going to do anything for you that a non-modified truck can't do.
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Wednesday, February 12th, 2014 AT 12:46 PM

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