Engine starts then dies.

Tiny
JCENTRP
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 VOLVO S40
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • MANUAL
  • 74,000 MILES
My Volvo sporadically has problems starting. When it does happen, I start the car and just before it seems to really start up it dies. I have to shut it off and then restart and it starts up just fine.
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Friday, June 18th, 2010 AT 3:28 PM

29 Replies

Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
Is this the old body style or new body S40? If it is the old body style, then check the fuel pressure regulator hose at the intake side for fuel. Usually it is better to let it sit overnight and just before you start it up pull the hose off to check it. If there is fuel then that is the cause of your starting problem. What happens is that fuel leaks into the intake causing it to flood out. Replacing the fuel pressure regulator will take care of the problem. If that is OK then the other culprit is the idle air control valve could be dirty causing the valve to stick. Remove it and clean it up with some carb cleaner and make sure the sliding valve moves back and forth freely. Let me know what you find and get back to me please.

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Saturday, June 19th, 2010 AT 12:17 AM
Tiny
AHOFFE42
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I had this problem and it was a vacuum leak I found by using this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

I love this site.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:00 PM
Tiny
COTTONEYEDJOE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 VOLVO S40
Engine Mechanical problem
2003 Volvo S40 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Went out to warm my S40 up this morning and the car started fine. On my way back in the house for the coffee, the car stalled. I went back to restart and all it did was turn over. No prior warning something was wrong. I pulled 2 codes. P0508 ( Idle Air control system Low circuit) and P0015 Cam position B Timing over retarded bank 1.

Everything I have seen here regarding Idle air control valve is the car will start if you depress gas peddle, not mine. Any help will be great!
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Bad or misaligned timing belt
should check timing belt 1st


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_1_53.jpg

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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COTTONEYEDJOE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Timing belt is new, I did the work. Oh no! I did look at it mark or left gear 12 o"clock, mark on right gear not quit at 12 0"clock but about 1/8" before 12.

Is there another mark on the crank? How do I see that?
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COTTONEYEDJOE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Timing seams to be correct. I am in question about the belt tensioner, I'm wondering if this is correct. Could this have loosed?
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
You will need to check your timing marks. The crank has 2 dimples one on each spline. On the oil pump there will be a mark as well loks like a groove sticking out. That groove needs to be in between the 2 marks on the crank. Then you will need to make sure the cam marks line up properly as well. If for some reason you removed the exhaust CVVT hub then you will need to get the special tool to lock the cam in place to reset the timing.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JSSZAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 VOLVO S40
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 151,000 MILES
I have a 2002 S40 turbo. Recently, the electrical system starting doing strange things. First the radio would just change stations or get loud.

Then some of the "idiot" lights would flash on and off.

Now when I come to a stop, the car randomly stalls. All the dash lights will go off and then come back on. There is no warning. When I try to restart the car it is completely dead. I don't even hear the clicking noise of the starter trying to turn over.

After turning the key several times or trying to put the car in nuetral, it will start.

I have a mechanic looking at it and they have not come up with anything when the run the diagnostic tests and they can't recreate the problem.

Another thing, the positive battery cable seems to be hot as the insulation around it is discolored. I put two new batteries in the car in less than 2 yrs. When I had the car serviced, they said the current battery needed to be replaced.

Stumped in Memphis
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Honestly, this sounds like a problem with a ground. Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. Also, check the ground where it attaches to the engine block. Make sure it is clean and tight. Finally, check for ground straps to the body (under hood, under vehicle.) To make sure they are clean, tight, and not broken.

Let me know what you find. Once you get it running again, take it to a nationally recognized parts store and have them check the amprage draw from the starter. Most will do it for free, and then you'll know if that is causing the terminals to overheat and the battery to fail.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRISTINMCD19
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2002 VOLVO S40
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 61,000 MILES
Hi I just bought a 2002 s4o volvo with 61000 miles on it about a month ago and I havent had any problems. On my way to Orlando Friday I was getting on the highway adn when I turned it just stalled on me like quietly shut off. I almost got rear ended! It does this when I am driving slow and turnign at the same time or if I am just sitting at a light. It idles a little bit and then shuts off. Other then that It's fine. SO I just recently had it hooked up to a computer and FIXED AND THE PRINT OUT AND CODES I GOT BACK WERE

P0101- MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR
P0102 - BOOST PRESSURE SIGNAL TO LOW
P0301 MIS FIRE CYL #1
P0302
P0303
P0304
P0131 FRONT OF SENSOR SIGNAL TOO LOW
AND LAST CODE WAS
P0107 AND THAT NEEDS FURTHER DIAGNOSIS HE SAID

HE SAID HE CLEARED MY CODES, REPLACED SPARK PLUGS, REPLACED AIR FILTER, AND CLEANED TROTLE BODY. THAT COST ME 177.26 AND THAT SHOULD FIX PROBLEM.
ALTHOUGH! ITS STILL SHUTING OFF I AM A COLLEGE STUDENT AND NEED OT GET BACK AND FORTH FROM SCHOOL I CAN'T HAVE MYC AR STALLING DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS OR KNWO WHAT I NEED TO DO! THANK YOU SO MUCH kristinmcd19@yahoo. Com is my personal email
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIS001
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Codes PO101, 102, could be related as well as PO107 since that is a code for too low or too high boost pressure signal. You have 2 boost pressure sensors on here also known as the MAP sensor. I do not know what the signal specs should be off hand at the moment but I can tell you is that the MAP sensor on top of the intake below the fuel injector rail is the one that is bad. Have your mechanic check the signal wire at the mass air flow sensor while at idle I believe the signal should be 0.60 volts aproximate and should rise as you raise the idle. If it does then the Mass Air Flow Sensor is ok and replacing the MAP sensor should do the trick. As for the misfire codes, they could have set when the idle got to low and started to miss a little. Now sometimes you can have 2 problems at the same time. If after replacing the MAP sensor you still have problems then the Mass Air Flow sensor will also need to be replaced. But usually just replacing the MAP sensor should take care of the problem. Good luck and keep me posted.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
Also forgot to address your oxygen sensor code. There is an adapter cable available that prevents contamination of the reference air. If you do not have the cble install you need to get this part from Volvo. PN 30650686 is what you will need to get. Once installed you need to have the adaptations reset. If the code comes back on then the front oxygen sensor needs to be replaced but the adapter connector needs to stay in place.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MYWHITEACURA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 VOLVO S40
  • 1.9L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 205,000 MILES
Engine misfire and lacks power engine not turning in the right direction I have changed the ignition coils but I haven't changed the sparkplugs well leading up to the day my car cutoff it had been knocking pretty bad and it sounds like the belts were loose my car cut off in hasnt started again I took it to a shop in they said the engine not turning in the right direction have any ideas on what it could be
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMER1967
  • MECHANIC
  • 875 POSTS
It sounds to me like your engine thru a rod or seized up. It can only turn in one direction when you turn the key so my guess is they meant that it was not turning over at all and is seized up, and the knocking is another indicator that it is time for a new motor, or vehicle.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
1MOMMYROCKS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 VOLVO S40
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 11,105 MILES
My Volvo starts and drives okay as long as I am accelerating. Every time I take my foot off the gas it stalls. Also there is a strong oder of gasoline.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
What you may want to try first is have the idle air control valve cleaned ad see if that works? As for the fuel smell, check the fuel pressure regulator for leaks and maybe the injectors. If it is more like an exhaust smell you are actually gettin, have the manifold nuts checked and retighten. They could be loose and maybe you could be missing a nut? Keep me posted the idle issue.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,544 POSTS
  • 2001 VOLVO S40
Car dies after starting unless you hold gas pedel down abit
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system. You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STINGRAY1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 VOLVO S40
Engine Mechanical problem
2001 Volvo S40 4 cyl Automatic 150000 miles

My car starts hard and when I put my foot on the gas it dies out. After it warms up it runs find
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JIS001
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,408 POSTS
Couple of things you may want to check out first. One is the fuel pressure regulator for leaks. After it has sat for a while, preferably overnight, remove the vacuum hose at the intake side of the fuel pressure regulator and see if there is fuel present. If there is fuel then the regulator is leaking and flooding out the car. Replace the fuel pressure regulator and you should be good. If that is O.K. Then remove the idle air control valve and clean it out and make sure plunger moves back and forth. If it is binding then replace the valve. If you order it from the dealer ask for the slide valve? I know, if you get some newbee in parts he is going to tell you the idle air control valve does not exist LOL because that is not how Volvo calls it. Let me know what you find.
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Thursday, September 12th, 2019 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)

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