Truck stalls while driving. I can wait between 10 and 30 minutes then it will start

Tiny
MOSLOF1988
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 GMC SONOMA
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 171,000 MILES
Satrts fine, seems to stall more often during the heat of the day, some of the longest drive times ive had without stalling is when its been at night. There are no error codes being given during the event, before or after, nothing. By accident one time while filling the radiator the hose slipped from my hands and sprayed water all over the ignition control module (while the truck had just stalled minutes before) I went and it started right up, I let it run and waited for it to stall again, I then sprayed the ICM and waalaah it fired up. I repeated that process like 6 times so I thought I got it, its the ICM. NOPE, wrong, I changed it out with a new AC Delco OEM ICM, still stalls. So lets cover what I have replaced all new all OEM. Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Oil Pressure Sensor, Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, Ignition Control Module, Thermostat, New Spark Plugs, Checked and cleaned grounding wires, Air Intake Sensor. Question could a clogged or damaged Catalytic converter cause these problems? If so could I just pull the o2 sensor to determine if that was the case? Cuz I did do that also. What about a crankcase Position Sensor? Could that be causing this nightmare? I am at my end I need this truck for work, and its absolutely killing me not being able to track this problem down. What about the PCM? Anything any suggestions, I mean anything
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Wednesday, August 27th, 2014 AT 10:07 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Most of what you replaced won't cause stalling. The fact you proved it's temperature-related suggests the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor. They often fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then work again when they cool down. The Engine Computer needs their signals to determine which cylinder to fire and when to fire the injectors and spark plugs. On some engines one failed sensor will lead to stalling and a failure to restart. On some engines they will continue running with one failed sensor but won't restart once they're turned off. Some engines will run, but poorly, with one failed sensor because it uses the other one to get as close as possible to the correct timing. Some engines use one sensor for spark timing and the other one for injector synchronization. Injector timing is much less critical than spark timing, so you often don't know there's a problem except for the fault code.

The best approach is to connect a scanner to view live data. It will usually show both sensors and whether a signal is being received from each one. When one is missing, check its connector first for signs of corrosion or stretched terminals.
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Wednesday, August 27th, 2014 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
MOSLOF1988
  • MEMBER
You are right on the money my man, I didnt read your response until I just got home after I went and looked at the crankcase position sensor and it was gummed up and all sorts of nasty. I replaced it and vroooom, I drove 145 miles today no stalling. You are the only person to say, "the crankcase position sensor is "heat" sensitive. I have asked like 5 others should I be looking at that, and they said yes maybe but check this first, then id be going down a different road. But yes you are correct sir, it was the crankcase position sensor that was making my 1996 GMC Sonoma 2 wheel drive 2.2. L 4 cylinder truck stall intermittently. (I think I spelled intermittently correct) who cares the damn thing runs. MUAH.
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Friday, August 29th, 2014 AT 8:53 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
First of all, "Sir" was my father. I may be forcibly retired, but I'm still a "boy". Second, there are only five people who are going to give you the wrong answer, and you found all of them. Third, I only know eight things, and your problem is one of them.

I'm happy to hear it's running.
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Friday, August 29th, 2014 AT 11:36 PM

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