Engine idles too high?

Tiny
WALIWARDAK
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 87,000 MILES
My car's engine is heating when the RPM goes above 2 thousands?
Wednesday, June 13th, 2018 AT 10:38 AM

25 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Hi Waliwardak,

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak or the throttle body needs to be cleaned. Please go over these guides to help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please run down these guides and report back.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, June 14th, 2018 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
WALIWARDAK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Hi.

Thanks for the guides it was a vacuum leak, all set thanks again.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, June 15th, 2018 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, June 16th, 2018 AT 11:26 PM
Tiny
JMELAMU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 290,000 MILES
I have Toyota Auris 2007 manual transmission. After cleaning the engine the rev became higher and on reverse is worse. I changed the throttle body and both sensors but nothing changed. I disconnected the reverse switch, then the is driving normal. But after putting new reverse switch. The problem came back. Can you please help?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,861 POSTS
Hello,

This can be due to a vacuum leak also did you use a new throttle bore or used? Lets run the codes and go over this vacuum leak guide to see if we can fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAIR TRIPPER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
The engine idle speed is constantly high, whether the engine is cold or hot. It idles so high that the car will rocket backwards without touching the accelerator when put into reverse. Every thread I have seen has a different suggestion for how to fix a problem for high idle when the vehicle is cold, but what about when it just consistently runs high? Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
First check for a vacuum leak like a hose off/broken etc.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

then check for an air duct leak from air cleaner to throttle body there should not be any holes etc.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-an-air-intake-boot

the try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

finally if none of this works or is found scan for codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAIR TRIPPER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you, I will check all of this out.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,861 POSTS
Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADRIAANA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2004 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 187,433 MILES
My vehicle is listed above VVTI. First it stood for a few months was running well only had a side smash but after fixing body I started up vehicle and found that it was revving high idling high. So I removed MAF sensor cleaned it and removed throttle body and cleaned it too. Reinstalled both then problem was solved idle went normal. We used vehicle had no power because of clutch, replaced new clutch kit but my problem I am getting now is when driving and pressing accelerator it is stuff like, tight and when going up a slight hill pressing down on pedal it would start of well going up, but will lose power and pressing down on accelerator it stalls like the car pulls back and chokes up when accelerating. It is like throttle does not fully open up. Please help because I am confused and lost.
My accelerator cable is not tight nor loose at throttle.
And another problem I have heard I do not know what it is but it is some sort of sound it makes when idling and driving. It is a continuous sound can't really describe it but it is like an electronic blowing sound like some sort of electrical zooooo. Sound like coming from vacuum like by the inlet manifold. Because I think water entered in the sometime two years back when replaced the clutch kit. Then it entered the inlet manifold/throttle. Not sure please can you help?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,164 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The sound you have may be an engine vacuum leak. Make sure all air inlet hoses are properly attached. Also, here is a link that shows how to check for vacuum leaks. A big leak can cause what you are describing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Next, since the vehicle is an 04, it has the OBD 2 diagnostic system. If the check engine light is staying on, you should scan the computer to determine what diagnostic trouble codes are stored in the system. Here is a quick video showing how that is done.

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Now, if there are no vacuum leaks or trouble codes, since the engine bogs under a load, my next guess is that it deals with a weak fuel pump. With that in mind, I would recommend checking fuel pressure. Here is a link that shows how in general it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. They include the manufacturer's specs.

COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS

See Picture 1

CHECK FUEL PRESSURE
a. Prepare for inspection.
1. Purchase a new fuel tube, and take out the fuel tube connector from its tube.

HINT: Part No. 23901-OD010

b. Work for prevent gasoline from spilling out.
c. Disconnect the EFI fuel pipe clamp.
d. Disconnect the fuel tube from the fuel main tube.

See Picture 2

e. Install SST (pressure gauge) as shown in the illustration by using the SST and fuel tube connector.

SST 09268-41047 (90467-13001, 95336-08070), 09268-45014 (09268-41200, 09268-41220, 09268-41250, 90467-13001)

f. Wipe off any splattered gasoline.
g. Start the engine.
h. Measure the fuel pressure at idle.

Fuel pressure: .................... 304 - 343 kPa (3.1 - 3.5 kgf.sq.cm, 44 - 50 psi)

i. Stop the engine.
j. Check that the fuel pressure remains as specified for 5 minutes after the engine has stopped.

Fuel pressure: .................... 147 kPa (1.5 kgf.sq.cm, 21 psi) or more

If pressure is not as specified, check the fuel pump, pressure regulator and/or injectors.

k. After checking fuel pressure, disconnect the negative (-) terminal cable from the battery and carefully, remove the SST and fuel tube connector to prevent gasoline from the splashing.

l. Reconnect the fuel tube to fuel main tube.
m. Install the EFI fuel pipe clamp.
n. Check fuel leak.

___________________________________

If you take a look at picture 3, make sure none of the vacuum lines indicated are damaged or not properly connected.

__________________________________

Now for the stiff throttle cable, look at picture 4 and make sure nothing is kinked, out of place and rubbing, or damaged in any way.

__________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADRIAANA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks a lot Joe. I did not test all those stuff told me to but I think I found the problems as I think I did not sure, but I have found the the zwooo sound is coming from filter box and MAF. I do not know is it because the filter box has a big hole on the bottom that is causing the MAF sensor to be confused and faulty that causes it to sound like that. Because of the amount of air and probably dust going in but it is clean. I cleaned the MAF sensor or is it that I should replace MAF n filter box? And the accelerator I have found that when pushing the throttle by hand it has sum kind of stickiness to it, like the butterfly in throttle sticks when it is closed. Do not know why because I have removed it and cleaned it the time it was idling and revving high or should I just replace the whole throttle as well? That probably causes the lack of power through acceleration and stiffness. How much do they go for?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,164 POSTS
Welcome back:
If there is a hole before the MAF sensor, that shouldn't affect the sensor, but it will cause the noise. Now, for the throttle, disconnect the throttle cable at the throttle body. See if the throttle itself is stiff. I have a feeling it has something to do with one of the cables.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADRIAANA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
The hole is on the bottom of filter box where it bolts onto body and it could be the accelerator cable but I did disconnect it and moved the throttle and from first move it feels stuck like the butterfly inside throttle sticks when in stationary position (closed position). But when open it moves freely and no stiffness. It is just stuck when you start to move it open.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,164 POSTS
Hi again:

There has to be an air inlet on the air filter box. Does it look like something that a person cut in after it was made?

As far as the throttle, something must be causing it to stick at first. It could either be carbon or wear. I realize you cleaned it, but did you clean around where the throttle plate mounts and hinges?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADRIAANA
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thnx jac and no everything is original its the box thts broken where the filter sits inside bt the bottom of box they split in two moss the box. And as fr the throttle I removed it from motor n cleaned it properly with carb cleaner so I think its worn. I took it fr a 60km drive yesterday n the accelerator had stiffnes too it and had no power evn whn accelerating its years we had the car fr bt its still neat and motor is 100% silent jst these slight issues do yoi think I shld replace timing chain too? And re-torque cyl. Head if so plz provide me with torque settings fr 1.4 vvti corrolla. Thnx
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,164 POSTS
Welcome back:
Before I would go to the trouble, I would suggest checking engine compression to determine if it is even a problem. Here is a link that shows how that is done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-low-compression

If you do this first, let me know the results.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KATOKA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 87,000 MILES
Idles at 2000 rpm when first start the car. Stays at high idlefor over 10 minutes.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:39 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like the idle air control valve needs to be cleaned. Here are two guides to help fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

Please run down these guides and report back.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-2
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AILA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 68,000 MILES
2005 Corolla LE (67K miles) - Automatic - High idle RPM (2000-2200) when started in cold. Noticed these during winters only. Is this a problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 1:40 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links