Timing Belt Marks?

Hi there,

yes change the timing belt ... Normal service interval is 80,000 KMs the job takes about 1,5 Hrs so just get a few quotes and get it sorted before you have real problems. Youc an do the job yourself though here is the marks in the link below.

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/toyota/corolla/1997

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

I think this subject is more opinionated than factual, they are all made pretty much in the same way, exept for maybe the cheapest of the brands such as valucraft I believe as long as you dont buy the cheapest parts you'll usually have a descent product, then again Ive used valuecraft before and had very good luck with it. So an item such as that Ive never had a problem with it. But when it comes to something like brake pads and rotors, the more expensive seem to be the better choice as those rotors are made in like japan for like 3 cents a rotor(understand what im saying?). So they dont care if they are cut properly or not, why should they; they dont get paid anything to make them. SO Duralast is a descent belt in my opinion. You'll be just fine.

As you are replacing the timing belt, if it has not been replaced, may I suggest that you replace the water pump as well.

I agree with Zackman on the waterpump. While you have the belt off, drain and flush the coolant and replace the WP, if you can afford it. While the WP may be OK it is good preventative maint.
Also inspect the front main seal for leaks, since if it is leaking you have to remove the belt to change it.

The waterpump is suggested sometimes, because there is so much involved in getting to the belt that you might as well get a new waterpump so that you dont have to go through that ordeal anytime soon. Your choice, if you can deal with the possibility that the pump may go soon then dont worry about it, some people would say, "if it aint broke dont fix it"

thanx for comming,
and please come back again
jody

You did say that you replace the timing belt. Did you happen, by chance, not set the timing correctly? You won't get any sparks if the engine is out of time.

***Start with this test***

SPARK TEST

1. Disconnect spark plug wires. Remove spark plugs. Install spark plug on each spark plug wire. Ground spark plug against cylinder block.
2. Crank engine and check for spark. If spark does exist, check ignition coil, ignitor and distributor
electrical connections.
3. If electrical connections are okay, go to next step. If electrical connections are defective, repair as
necessary and recheck for spark.
4. Using ohmmeter, check resistance of spark plug and ignition coil high tension wires. Resistance should be within specification. Maximum Ohms 25,000 Per Wire. If resistance is within specification, go to next step. If resistance is not within specification, replace high tension wire.
5. Turn ignition on. Check for battery voltage at ignitor and ignition coil positive terminal. If battery
voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, check wiring between ignition switch, ignition coil and ignitor.
6. Check ignition coil resistance. Cold: Primary @.36-.S55, Secondary 9000-15,400 ohms. Hot: Primary.45-.65, Secondary 11,400-18,100 ohms. If ignition coil resistance is within specification, go to next step. If ignition coil resistance is not within specification, replace ignition coil.
7. Check pick-up coil resistance. Cold: Pick-Up Coil Terminals G+ & G-, 185-275 ohms. Hot: Pick-Up Coil G+ & G-, 240-325 ohms. If pick-up coil resistance is within specification, go to next step. If pick-up coil resistance is not within specification, replace distributor assembly.
8. Check resistance of crankshaft position sensor. Cold: 1630-2740 ohms, Hot: 2065-3225 ohms. If
crankshaft position sensor resistance is within specification, go to next step. If crankshaft position
sensor resistance is not within specification, replace crankshaft position sensor.
9. Check pick-up coil air gap. Spec.008-.016 (inches). If pick-up coil air gap is correct, go to next step. If pick-up coil air gap is incorrect, replace distributor assembly.
10. Check ignition IGT signal from Engine Control Module (ECM). If ignition IGT signal from ECM
is defective, a diagnostic trouble code P1300 will be set in the ECM memory to indicate a ignitor
circuit malfunction.
11. If IGT signal is okay, substitute another ignitor and recheck system operation. If IGT signal is defective, check wiring between Engine Control Module (ECM), distributor and ignitor. If wiring is defective, repair wiring as necessary and recheck system operation. If wiring is okay, substitute another ECM and recheck system operation.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR RESISTANCE
1. Crankshaft position sensor is located on front (timing belt end) of engine, just behind the
crankshaft pulley. Disconnect electrical connector for crankshaft position sensor, located near oil dipstick.
2. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals on crankshaft position sensor. Replace
crankshaft position sensor if resistance is not within specification. Reinstall electrical connector.

IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE (DISTRIBUTOR TYPE IGNITION SYSTEM)
1. Disconnect wiring from ignition coil so ignition coil is isolated from the system. Using an ohmmeter, check ignition coil primary resistance between ignition coil positive (+) and negative (-) terminals.
2. Check ignition coil secondary resistance between ignition coil positive (+) terminal and high tension terminal (coil wire tower). Replace ignition coil if resistance is not within specification.

PICK-UP COIL RESISTANCE
1. Disconnect electrical connector on distributor and note pick-up coil terminal identification on the
distributor.
2. Using ohmmeter, check resistance between specified terminals. Replace distributor assembly if pick-up coil resistance is not within specification. Reinstall electrical connector.

PICK-UP COIL AIR GAP
1. Remove distributor cap. Using non-magnetic feeler gauge, check pick-up coil air gap between signal rotor and pick-up coil projection.
2. Replace distributor assembly if pick-up coil air gap is not within specifications.

You should replace the water pump while you are at it. You are at bit less than where both units usually fails. If you don't replace the water pump now, when the time comes to replace the pump, you have to re-replace the belt. You have to remove the belt to get to the water pump, and you should not re-use timing belt. It should cost you 4 hours of labor plus parts. Make sure you also replace the timing belt tensioner.

If you have the money, I would do the work ASAP. You won't feel different, performance-wise, from the water pump and belt. You may hear less noise from the timing tensioner, a bit.

If you want to car to run more smoothly, I would suggest doing a tune-up. You are close to your 120K mile mark. 120K miles service include, but not limited to, spark plugs (make sure that they are either NGK or Denso brand), wires, distributor cap and rotor, filters (air, fuel and PCV valve), and transmission service.

New water pump should be around $50 - $60. Make sure you purchase the right one for your car. 97 Corolla has two different engine 1.6L 4AFE or 1.8L 7AFE. There are two different models of water pump, one made for Aisan and the other one is for Aisin Seiki. I don't remember which one goes to which engine.

Your timing belt should run you around $20, or timing belt set with tensioner for $60.