Engine is misfiring and jerking?

Tiny
KYHILLS
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 170,000 MILES
Pretty frustrated. About 1 1/2 years ago car died on highway with no prior symptoms. Smallshop replaced condenser and it ran just a few miles and then started missing(more of a hiccup or hesitation, very noticeable) badly and then died a few miles later. Took to different shop and they said distributor was bad and replaced it. Car was running again but still missing some. Less frequent when it warmed up. Same shop tried a number of things:O2 sensor, vacuum lines, and more, but could not solve the problem. Took to Toyota dealership. They put on Toyota plugs and wires and another used computer they had. It improved but was still doing it some. They felt the problem was electrical and could probably find it but were not sure how long it would take. Had already spent several hundred dollars and did not want to
spend much more on a car not worth much more than $1000. That was in April, 2010. That summer the missing improved to almost nonexistent. With cooler weather it got worse and stayed about the same through the spring. The next summer(this past summer) it did not get better and has gotten worse this fall. Mpg has only dropped 1-2mpg. This is probably just coincidence. Right before this happened I had just changed my oil myself. Car died about 5 miles later.
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Monday, October 3rd, 2011 AT 1:15 AM

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Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Toyota has huge issues with carbon deposits on the intake valves that give these types of symptoms. This guide will help fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Roy
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Monday, October 3rd, 2011 AT 1:26 AM
Tiny
KCHAKHAZA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1995 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 92,852 MILES
I own a 1995 Toyota Corolla 160iGLE (South African make) model AE92-R. Recently, the engine started misfiring when its cold ****** when I start and go). I contacted mechanics to have a look at it several times but nothing has changed. I have so far replaced (changed) the following, fuel filter, fuel pump, throttle sensor, idle switch, condensor, spark plugs and now am being told to replace ignitor. I have the feeling that the technicians have run out of ideas. This is my dream car which I would like to see it grounded hence am asking for you opinion.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
MAP/MAF sensor? ECT sensor?
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Check that the inlet manifold has not sucked in, spray a little carby cleaner around the manifold with the engine running, if the revs pick up you will have a leak.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KCHAKHAZA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I do remember very well the mechanic did sprayed the carburator cleaner around the inlet manifold when he was replacing the idle switch. Take note that the misfiring only occurs when I start the engine and slightly rev the engine (1500- 2500rpm) and after 5 to 10 minutes warm up the misfiring stops, BUT still hesitates when I start moving till temp reaches normal. Am sorry for not giving you a clear picture in the first place. What and where are MAP/MAF ECT
sensors located? Am sorry am not a technician myself.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
I would be checking the coolant temp sensor as well, as if it is out of range, you can get the ECU setting a lean condition on start up when it should be richer, worth a look.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIRK G
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1995 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 129,000 MILES
My 95 Corolla needed a new left axel a month ago. $220 and new axel solved clunking noise. It was also running rough. My Mechanic added "professional strength fuel injector cleaner" supposedly 90% proof at $9/can instead of consumer grade 2-4% product.
After one day, the engine starts to runs like a top.
Two months later, car begins to miss and not develop power when stopped at light, or parked up hill. Barely makes it to top, and except for gravity, might never get back up to speed. Gas mileage goes out the window: Less than 15 mpg and gas @$3.30 seems like $7/gal I think it's running on two cylinders, but without warning, will clear itself at 60 mph on level highway and run well for 15 miles or so.
Suddenly, or at a stop light, loss of power, and mileage suffers again. My mechanic has retired due to cancer, & can't help. I've replaced air filter, spark plugs & a fresh tank of gas. I have a fuel filter I could try to replace this weekend, as I have some limited mechanical ability. I change the 10W30 oil every 3000-4000 miles plus oil filter, but the engine uneeds another 1 quart every 1000 miles. Also, an idiot light "Check Engine" lit in the dash yesterday, but went out after 80 miles today. A burning rubber smell accompnied the first recent lack of power and the car smelled hot in the garage. What do you suggest I do? I need this car for daily 40 mile one way highway commute to work, returning AFTER MIDNIGHT! Thanks.

Timing Belt was replaced at 121K miles. So it shouldn't be a problem.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
The rough running sounds like a sensor out of range (MAP/MAF, TPS or coolant temp). You will need to get the ECM scanned for the code. Most auto parts stors will scan the ECM for free.

The burning rubber sounds like a belt, maybe timing belt? When was the last time the timing belt was changed? If the timing belt has missing cogs it will cause the engine timing to be off and cause it to run rough (or not at all). It should be replaced every 60-70K.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KCHAKHAZA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Mhpautos, coolant temp sensor was a the first to replace when the whole thing started. I will try ECU setting. Keep you in touch. Thank you so much for your help.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KCHAKHAZA
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Mhpautos, the coolant temp sensor was the first to be replaced when the whole thing started. I will check the ECU setting. Thank you very much for your help and I will keep you updated.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VEO40
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 162,000 MILES
I just put in regular gas when my tank is almost emty and afterwards my engine began to misfire
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
Its probably not the gas but a ignition misfire. Check the cap, rotor and wires and spark plugs. If your really concerned about bad gas then remove fuel filter and pour the gas into a clear glass bottle and if there is water in it then it will seperate and you will see 2 different liquids
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OAKSEY2004
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 135,000 MILES
While driving, the car missed and a check engine light threw and then would be fine. But then it would miss again and it would stall and take awhile to start back. It has a brand new distributer, ignition coil, plugs and wires. What would cause the car not to start anymore?
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEW84
  • MECHANIC
  • 673 POSTS
So its cranking, but not starting? You need to find out what you are missing first. Spark, fuel, inj. Pulse, compression.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JWMATLOCK51
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 168,200 MILES
Hello,
I just bought a used 1993 Corolla. I pressure washed the engine compartment, afterwards I had to dry out the distributor cap because of moisture that caused a miss/no power. That seemed to have fixed the problem. I got home and parked, came out a little later and started the car. It had the same symptoms as it had with the moisture inside the distributor cap, engine miss/no power. I checked the dist. Cap and whatever else I could think of, but couldn't find the problem. Can you give me some ideas?
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
Get some electronics cleaner and remove all electrical connections in engine compartment.

Spray both ends with cleaner and blow dry.

Power washing the engine is problematical at best.

I use brake clean and compressed air to clean the engine.

Disconnect - battery cable before starting the cleaning process described above.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SLOWTOYOTA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I have a toyota sprinter with 5afe engine that stopped, check and had no spark, replaced the distributor with another but the timing mark is 40deg atdc, so took out the dizzy retaining bolt and turned the dizzy around till it was on 10deg btdc, the bolt is no where near the slots to hold it in, and when I rev the engine there is no advance, it actually retards the spark (due to no advance) it just stays where it is set eg 10deg this is when te1 and e1 are shorter out and not shorted out) there are no codes in computer. I have tried 3 dizzys all exactly the same number as original one. I have tried 3 ecu's of the same number. All produce same results, needs dizzy to be advanced miles to run. Timing belt is spot on, harmonic balancer is correct. I set ignition timing at 10deg then turned off enginethen turned the crank to 10deg and took the dizzy cap off and the reluctor wheel is about half way from where it is supposed to be when triggering, ? How can it run there, I pulled the dizzy out and turned by hand and it fires the coil when reluctor wheel is just passing the pick up. Where is the advace? What can I try? So to recap tried 3 dizys and 3 ecus all from running cars. Still needs dizzy advance miles and still no advace when reving. (Btw coil and ignitor is in the dizzy and so is replaced with every dizzy)
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
The only thing I can think of is that the cam gear on the exhaust cam that drive the dist. Has a broken woodruff key.
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SLOWTOYOTA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No it is fine. the crank to cam to distributor timing is all spot on. if you take the plugs out and wind over by hand it fires at correct time, im going to check all the power inputs and earths on the computer today, will also check map sensor input and output signals.

It has a toyota ESA (electronic spark advance) system and only has a g1 sensor it the distributor, if this helps at all.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/527597_eas_2.jpg

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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
If engine timing (mechanically) is good, then I would also check grounds, but something is screwy, if timing keeps changing.

I would remove both camshaft gears and check the keys.

Is lower timimg belt gear good?
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Monday, August 10th, 2020 AT 10:42 AM (Merged)

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