The engine will not idle?

Tiny
AJ7662
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 241,000 MILES
Car will only start by holding down on the gas a little. As soon as I release the gas the car stalls. What could be the problem?
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Saturday, September 7th, 2019 AT 1:18 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's Idle Air Control valve (IAC). This is the valve that let's air go around your vehicle's closed throttle plate at idle to keep your vehicle's engine running. In the diagrams down below I have included a diagram and factory description of your vehicle's IAC valve. Here is a link, also, for you to go to below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Saturday, September 7th, 2019 AT 2:33 PM
Tiny
TYLER W.
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 178,000 MILES
My car starts up fine but lately has been shutting off. I thought it was the battery so I changed it and my car still started up fine but shut off again. I took it to a mechanic where he felt it was not my alternator (alternator test) he said he needed to run more test. He said it isn't my spark plugs because my car is not misfiring even though he mentioned I have the wrong spark plugs in my car. He stated it could be electrical or that it may be the idle air control valve but didn't promise that that part wouldn't resolve the issue. Please help before he takes me for everything.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,005 POSTS
Hi,

The idea that it won't stay running at an idle is usually one of two things, a bad idle air control valve (IAC) or an engine vacuum leak.

the IAC is responsible for maintaining the engine idle speed. It is located on the throttle body. I question if this one is replaceable on this year.

Next, an engine vacuum leak can allow unmetered air to enter the engine. As a result, the fuel / air ratio is affected and the engine can stall or run rough at idle.

So, can you tell me if this happens all the time? When you turn the ac on, does it want to stall?

Take a look through this link first. It explains how to retrieve diagnostic trouble codes from this type of system. All you need is either a short jumper wire or even a paper clip to do it.

Let me know if you feel comfortable doing this. If you do, let me know what codes are retrieved.

If you are not comfortable, we will take a different route for checking things.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/toyota-trouble-code-definitions-and-code-gathering-method-1990-1995

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MICHAEL BEAUCHAMP
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 TOYOTA COROLLA
I replaced the timing belt, water pump, then radiator. Car starts then dies. I have replaced ecu, distributor, fuel pump, ignition switch, coolant temp switch, coolant temp sensor, junction block and all relays, fuses ect.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
Start by checking fuel pressure with mechanical gauge. Could be a ruptured fuel pressure regulator, allowing excessive fuel into engine.

Check the FPR vacuum line for presence of gasoline.

Did you replace the ignitor, when you replaced dist?
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NOVICE123
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 144,000 MILES
Got up in the morning car started but no power, touch the gas dies out put in gear dies out nurse the engine for 3/5 min rpms and power come up seems once its warm no problem go to work 8 hours later cars starts and runs fine next morning have the same problem do the same nursing with the engine and i'm good to go for the day. Need some ideas thanks jim
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Check the spark plug wires. Have them ohmed out to see if there are any resistance shown in readings and below 25 k ohms.
What is the idling speed when engine is initially started?
Did you check for trouble codes?
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NOVICE123
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I will get back to you as soon as I can thanks
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NOVICE123
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Sorry for the delay did not think I could get trouble code off of 1993 without a reader thanks for the heads up. Codes were 14 and 52 change the knock sensor(52) no help. But I thought I was on the right track. Anyway I changed the idle air control and that fixed the prolbem. Never would has guessed. Thanks for the help.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
You're welcome.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MELTINGINOK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 TOYOTA COROLLA
Four cylinder front wheel drive manual transmission.

A couple weeks ago, my car started hesitating once it got to its normal operating temperature at slow speeds. It was intermittent, mostly when I was accelerating from a stop. When I tried to accelerate, the rpm's would fall to around 200 to 400, with no shaking or backfiring. I had really step on the gas, it might creep forward a few inches, stop, creep forward again, then the rpm's would jump up and my car would take off like nothing was wrong or it would stall. When it stalled, it would start right back up usually, sometimes stalling again or would drive like there is nothing wrong with it.

The problems gotten a lot worse. My car reached normal operating temperature on the highway and the rpm's suddenly dropped off, but picked back up again. Once I got off the highway, my rpm's would drop off every time I would slow down, and my car would try to stall out. Once it stalls, it will not start until my car's had time to cool off, and will not run unless it has cooled off for at least forty five minutes.

Now this happens every time I drive it and it gets to its normal operating temperature. If I am in traffic, the temperature will creep slightly over its normal, and I start having trouble.

I have changed the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter, and coil out a few days ago, and it has not helped. The fuel pump is only six months old. I have checked for vacuum leaks, and taken a look at my PCV valve, pressure regulator valve, lines, etc.

Any help with this will be greatly appreciated.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,554 POSTS
This sounds like the throttle bore needs to be cleaned and the engine coolant temperature sensor needs to be replaced. Here are two guides to help you see what you are in for when changing the sensor and performing the service:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONYSCAGGS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hello Ken, I replaced CTS and also cleaned throttle body and IAC valve. I have a new distributor and just for results I changed the coil. I have tested the TPS and the map and aci. I have fuel pressure and the fuel pump works and the filter is new. I am at a stand still. The car will crank runs great until engine temperatures are normal, when I try to pull away it will stall. It may crank back up if I apply the gas heavily but will stall again when not applying gas. I have checked the fuel pressure regulator for leaks, none. Plugs are re-gaped and cannot find any leaks. It does not have a ERG. 7AFE 1.8L. Please help!
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONYSCAGGS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
By the way, I have no codes. The ECM does work.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,554 POSTS
Maybe we are barking up the wrong tree. Can you check out the exhaust system? In other words I have seen a broken catalytic converter cause blockage and then unblock after it has cooled down. Here is a guide to help you see what I am talking about:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONYSCAGGS
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hello Ken, before we say catalyst. Could the fuel pump will work but become weak enough to cause this problem? The pump is not new, but I checked it on a battery terminal 2 pumps and they sounded good. I have pressure but I did not check with a pressure gauge (turned the real bolt).
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GENE MALLER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 205,000 MILES
My car will start, but runs rough. If I push on the gas pedal the car wants to die. If I keep pumping the pedal it will stay running, but real rough like its starving for gas. If I spray starter fluid into the carburetor it runs smooth.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,554 POSTS
Hey Gene,

Sounds like you have a huge vacuum leak, check the base gasket, also those engine have a weird carb, check the fuses because it has a fuel system cut of solenoid in side the carb which if is not working can cause the problem you have described,

Here is a link that can help for the vacuum leak.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know what you find

Best, Ken

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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,554 POSTS
Oh yes, the fuel pump can cause this issue. I wanted you to loosen the head pipe bolts to the exhaust it would be a little loud but it would rule out an exhaust issue and it does not cost anything. Back to the fuel pump. Here is a guide that will help you see how to check the fuel pressure I used to have the gauge taped to the hood of the car and then drive it to watch the pressure.

Here is a guide to help you see how to test the pressure with diagrams below to show you how to hook up your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down these guides and diagrams and report back.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HOTTAPPER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
Engine dies while stopping from any speed from less than 20 to more than 60 mph when having to stop faster than what would be considered ideal! This makes my son's drive to school everyday unsafe so he has been using my car until I can get this under control! I have been unable to find the problem and hate to replace parts just hunting for the right fix! The facts: front brake pads and rotors new, rear brake linings and drums good shape and in adjustment, no leaks at master cylinder, wheel cylinders, or calipers. Engine runs and idles fine in park, reverse, and drive with a/c on and off. There is no tale tell signs of brake booster problems, so no hissing, pedal pulsating, leak down of pedal, and seems to pass all "shade tree mechanics tests" both with engine running or not and even at start up. Lastly, car can be restarted by putting car in neutral even before the car has come to a stop! If it were carb'd. I would be looking at fast idle solonoid or other but being fuel injected I have no idea so please be discriptive in your answer!----Thanks all help is appreciated!
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Friday, January 22nd, 2021 AT 11:01 AM (Merged)

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