Thanks.

Carlos

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 12:09 AM

My son has a 92 toyota corolla and there appears to be something shorted and draining his battery. I initially thought that this would be easy to find and was proven wrong. With the car turned off, I put a current meter in series with the battery and found that there was imitially 700 mA of current being drawn with everything turned off. I proceeded to remove every fuse in the fusebox one by one and was expecting to see the current disappear when I came across the faulty circuit. I removed every fuse one at a time while checking the current draw and found the current still there. I also removed all fuses in the 2 fuse boxes next to the battery to no avail. There is a bank of threee square fuse looking things right at the positive cable that I could not remove. Any ideas as to how I can properly troubleshoot this. The current was drawing a little over 1 amp after I finished removing all fuses. Finding the source of 1 amp should be easier to find than I am expecting! Please help!

Thanks.

Carlos

Thanks.

Carlos

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 12:09 AM

A break in the rain here in the Bay Area! I went out this morning and found that it is not the alternator

The battery was disconnected from the negative post since the last check (few days).

The only thing that I opened was the hood (doors closed) and hooked up the meter in series with the negative post. This time the current draw was 4.1 amps. Last check it was 1 amp! I proceeded to disconnect the alt (2 places) and the current draw remained the same. After about 5 minutes, the current started to get lower and stabilized at 2 amps. I opened the door and this time removed all the fuses and the current remained the same at 2 amps. Out of curiosity I turned on the lights and the current draw went to 9 amps.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Carlos

The battery was disconnected from the negative post since the last check (few days).

The only thing that I opened was the hood (doors closed) and hooked up the meter in series with the negative post. This time the current draw was 4.1 amps. Last check it was 1 amp! I proceeded to disconnect the alt (2 places) and the current draw remained the same. After about 5 minutes, the current started to get lower and stabilized at 2 amps. I opened the door and this time removed all the fuses and the current remained the same at 2 amps. Out of curiosity I turned on the lights and the current draw went to 9 amps.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Carlos

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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2008 AT 9:51 AM

Out of curiosity I turned on the lights and the current draw went to 9 amps. Of course its gonna be higher-your loading it.

Disconnect it again and this time put a test light in between-and restart removing the fuses.

Amperage draw allowable is only 0.30 milliamps. Set the amp scale in millamps.

Disconnect it again and this time put a test light in between-and restart removing the fuses.

Amperage draw allowable is only 0.30 milliamps. Set the amp scale in millamps.

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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2008 AT 11:01 AM

The current draw was initially 4 amps and it dropped to 2 amps. This is with all the fuses OUT of the box.

I am using a Fluke 8010A Multimeter

This has 2 modes (scales)

Scale 1 is the 2000 mA (2 AMP) Scale and this has a fuse.

Scale 2 is the 10000mA (10 AMP) Scale with no fuse.

This morning I put the meter on the 2 AMP scale since I previously measured 1 amp (1000 mA) and it blew my 2 AMP fuse. I realized it was drawing higher so I put the leads on the 10 AMP scale and that is where I get the 4 amps from.

Again, this is with all the fuses removed and still out of the box.

CR

I am using a Fluke 8010A Multimeter

This has 2 modes (scales)

Scale 1 is the 2000 mA (2 AMP) Scale and this has a fuse.

Scale 2 is the 10000mA (10 AMP) Scale with no fuse.

This morning I put the meter on the 2 AMP scale since I previously measured 1 amp (1000 mA) and it blew my 2 AMP fuse. I realized it was drawing higher so I put the leads on the 10 AMP scale and that is where I get the 4 amps from.

Again, this is with all the fuses removed and still out of the box.

CR

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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2008 AT 3:01 PM

Ok, I removed the fuseable link from the battery and of course the current draw went to zero. I then removed the nut holding the wire to the blue FL. I then touched the wire to the post and the current draw is in the mA's

I then removed the nut going to the pink FL and the middle came tords me. I touched the main wire (Black with a red stripe and the current draw is 2 amps. This black wire the red stripe is what is leading to the short. Any idea as to where this wire goes? Is there a wiring diagram on line that I can get it from?

Your inputs are greatly appreciated.

CR

I then removed the nut going to the pink FL and the middle came tords me. I touched the main wire (Black with a red stripe and the current draw is 2 amps. This black wire the red stripe is what is leading to the short. Any idea as to where this wire goes? Is there a wiring diagram on line that I can get it from?

Your inputs are greatly appreciated.

CR

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Wednesday, January 23rd, 2008 AT 11:49 AM

I traced this wire to the back of the engine going to the bottom. As I traced the wire down I noticed that the current draw came down to less than 150 mA!1

I couls feel that the wire was bare at the end and was shorting to something. I felt around and moved it away from everything and slopped some silicon RTV around the bare wire. I will wait till the weekend to lift the car up and see exactly what was shorting. In the meantime, everything looks normal now!

Thanks again for your inputs,

Carlos

I couls feel that the wire was bare at the end and was shorting to something. I felt around and moved it away from everything and slopped some silicon RTV around the bare wire. I will wait till the weekend to lift the car up and see exactly what was shorting. In the meantime, everything looks normal now!

Thanks again for your inputs,

Carlos

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Wednesday, January 23rd, 2008 AT 9:33 PM

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