I have a 94 camry 4cyl, internal coil dist. It died suddenly while driving. I will give you several things I've checked and hopefully you can make sense of it all. Primary coil resistance was.8 and secondary resistance was 11.3. Both sides of the coil are hot when the ignition is on. Pickup coil resistance between terminal G+ & G- was 210, between Ne+ & Ne- was 419. I also Checked the fuse under the dash and both sides were hot. I checked the primary circuit(the connector with two connections) coming into the distributor with a LED test light, one side is hot all the time and the other side flashed when the engine was cranked the first time, then I checked the same thing and I got no flash when the engine was cranked. I don't know how to test the igniter or where it is located. I was able to pull two codes, they were 12 and 14. Thats all I got, Hope you can help.
Update: Since my last post I've replaced the igniter, got signal to the distributor and car would still not fire. I replaced the distributor today and the car started for a few seconds and died. Checked for signal from the igniter again and now I don't have any signal from the igniter to the distributor(same problem that lead me to replace the igniter in the first place). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Toyotatech, thanks for your replie earlier.
Hi John- All of your ohm readings are within spec except primary coil resistance, which they want to see between.36 and.65 ohms. Its out, but not open. Code 12 is for " no cam or crank signal to ECM" and 14 is for " no IGF to ECM". The ECM tells the igniter to fire with an " IGT" signal. When the coil field collapses the igniter sends confirmation to the ECM via " IGF" signal, so it may still be good. The igniter is located in the air box area with a 4 or 6 wire connector. Your blinking LED test light is verification that the signal from the igniter to the distributor is occurring. Check the distributor shaft- make sure its tight and maintains an even air gap. If the epoxy " window" on the coil is still clear, check for deep unusual cracking. There is a condensor in the the distributor housing. I don't know how to test it, but if it looks like it got hot and bubbled out the top, it is no good and may be your only problem.