No spark at spark plug?

Tiny
JENICK
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 205,000 MILES
The Car choked out at a stop sign. It will crank over but will not start. I replaced the rotor and there is still no spark at the sparkplug. The coil was replaced about 35000 miles ago. There is a smell of gasoline while cranking.
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Monday, November 17th, 2008 AT 6:50 PM

65 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Pull the coil wire from the distributor and ground it to the engine have helper crank engine over-Do you have spark-No spark test for power input to the coil, coil's primary and 2ndary winding resistances, distributor pick-up coil and ignitor.

This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

You're smelling fuel bcuz its not being burn-no combustion
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Tuesday, November 18th, 2008 AT 2:59 AM
Tiny
STEPHANIE CHOATE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
No spark. Coil checked out ok.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEW84
  • MECHANIC
  • 673 POSTS
How did you check the coil? Are you getting a pulse to the coil?
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEPHANIE CHOATE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Checked readings. Did not check for pulse. How do you do that
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEW84
  • MECHANIC
  • 673 POSTS
What readings and how did you check readings? You check for power to one side of the coil keyon engine off(or running) and the other will be your ground side of the coil and you will get a ground cranking and running.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEPHANIE CHOATE
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Ohm resistance; He took a voltage reading but not when cranked
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KBAJA_2000
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 210,692 MILES
No spark, has new coil, and igniter, Just quit running.
Has fuel pressure, all fuses are good.
Rotor is turning when engine is cranked over.
I dont know what to do.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Inspect and test the distributor pick-up coils resistances and short to ground. Check the fuel pressure if its within specs and also if the injectors are pulsing.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SPEEDY64
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 107,556 MILES
I changed the timing belt. After starting engine, all seem fine. The main bat wire on teh alternator was not tighten and came off for a second and hit shield over ex manifold. After that breif moment teh engine stopped and had no spark from then on. Eng cranks fine but has no spark. The check eng light is on and remains on during cranking.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FISHERMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 938 POSTS
Hello !!

Start retieving the "codes" from the ECM here`s how:

https://www.2carpros.com/dia/index.htm

Let us Know which codes you get and we will start from there.

good Luck!
_________________
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OWENS55
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 24,500 MILES
I lost spark, changed distributor, then coil. My friend changed the computer then ignighter. We still cannot get spark. The fuses we can see are all good. Any tips
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHN MANNING
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 TOYOTA CAMRY
1994 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive

I have a 94 camry 4cyl, internal coil dist. It died suddenly while driving. I will give you several things I've checked and hopefully you can make sense of it all. Primary coil resistance was.8 and secondary resistance was 11.3. Both sides of the coil are hot when the ignition is on. Pickup coil resistance between terminal G+ & G- was 210, between Ne+ & Ne- was 419. I also Checked the fuse under the dash and both sides were hot. I checked the primary circuit(the connector with two connections) coming into the distributor with a LED test light, one side is hot all the time and the other side flashed when the engine was cranked the first time, then I checked the same thing and I got no flash when the engine was cranked. I don't know how to test the igniter or where it is located. I was able to pull two codes, they were 12 and 14. Thats all I got, Hope you can help.

Update: Since my last post I've replaced the igniter, got signal to the distributor and car would still not fire. I replaced the distributor today and the car started for a few seconds and died. Checked for signal from the igniter again and now I don't have any signal from the igniter to the distributor(same problem that lead me to replace the igniter in the first place). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Toyotatech, thanks for your replie earlier.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOYOTECH
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
Hi John- All of your ohm readings are within spec except primary coil resistance, which they want to see between.36 and.65 ohms. Its out, but not open. Code 12 is for "no cam or crank signal to ECM" and 14 is for "no IGF to ECM". The ECM tells the igniter to fire with an "IGT" signal. When the coil field collapses the igniter sends confirmation to the ECM via "IGF" signal, so it may still be good. The igniter is located in the air box area with a 4 or 6 wire connector. Your blinking LED test light is verification that the signal from the igniter to the distributor is occurring. Check the distributor shaft- make sure its tight and maintains an even air gap. If the epoxy "window" on the coil is still clear, check for deep unusual cracking. There is a condensor in the the distributor housing. I don't know how to test it, but if it looks like it got hot and bubbled out the top, it is no good and may be your only problem.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KLMAPES23
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 TOYOTA CAMRY
Electrical problem
1994 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 1994 Toyota Camry. 2.2l. It overheated on me one day and I got that fixed and drove it later that night. The next day I went to start it and it wouldn't start. When I try to start it, it sounds like it wants to but it dont. I recently had a new fuel pump put on it. My uncle said there is no spark. He said it was the Electronic ignition module. What do you think it might be. It turns over it just wont start.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Hi there,

often it is the igniter, or the coil/distributor all will have to be electronically tested, this is a job best suited to a mechanic, you may get lucky if you drop in a good second hands distributor.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAUL MURDOCH
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1994 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 136,000 MILES
Washed the engine 2 weeks ago and it hasnt started since, have pulled all connections apart and dried them have checked all fuses and removed dist cap and plug leads and blown them all out please advise
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,815 POSTS
Hi paul murdoch,

Is there any current supply to the distributor?

Are there any sparks from the distributor?

Is fuel pressure present during cranking?
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STUMPED_AGAIN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • TOYOTA CAMRY
1994 Toyota Camry 102K miles 4 cyl Auto Trans. Currently won't start, no spark.

Problem Started months ago by car just dying while on road at 35mph. Would restart after a while.

Think fuel we replaced filter. Seems to have plenty coming out while cranking.

Change cap and rotor, plugs and wires look OK. Still no spark. Check Ign coil got proper ohm reading across pos & neg also OK across pos and high volt terminal. Also swapped coil for new one, same results, no spark.

Pulled distributor and checked ohm reading of pick up coils per book both in spec. Also read coils while turning distributor shaft and when lobe passes coil ohm reading is interupted. Appears that is the way it should work, would be the sending signal I guess. Also checked air gap OK

Placed jumper across pins on data connector and got signal 12 flash on eng lite in car wich would be No NE Signal to ECM, yet coils read out OK and during distribuor turning we get interupted ohm reading?

Also got good voltage reading at ECM, can't remember which pins and also good voltage reading at Igniter.

Could distributor housing still be bad even with good pickup coil (NE & G) readings? Or ECM even though we are getting 12 error code?

This is a self repair as we cannot afford to just replace all parts as they are all expensive and dealer repair is more than car is worth.

We sent in a donation to help you guys out.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LORD_ANARCHY
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Have the spark plugs been checked. For me, if all else fails, verify with your own two eyes if the spark is present.

This deviced allows you to visually see your engine supplying a spark.

As far as it not starting, does the engine crank? Write back and let's if we can nail this problem.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2020 AT 11:20 AM (Merged)

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