1992 Toyota Camry



March, 31, 2010 AT 6:54 PM

Electrical problem
1992 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 63000 miles

My '92 Camry has been intermittently stalling at stop signs, red light, in stop and go traffic. When it is started cold, it starts strong, idle is a bit high, then drives relatively normal until the car is warmed up. Once warm, engine will intermittently sputter/stall when stopped. The idle will sit at 800, then sometimes drop lower and stall or sputter.

Today is stalled on the highway in traffic. It would crank but not turn over for about 5-10 minutes (trying every minute or so). It finally started, I kept the RPM's up by slightly hitting gas with my foot on the brake to get through traffic. When I got home, the car sat outside my house for 10-15 minutes running with no problem at all.

Mechanics cannot seem to replicate the problem, but checked my vacuum lines, air intake hose, egr valve, cleaned throttle body, no codes are being thrown. They tell me all of the above seem okay.

The two problems that seem to share the most similarities that I have found on forums are the ECT sensor going bad, and the coil inside the distributor (although my distributor was replaced about 18 months ago?).

Any thoughts? This has been going on for months, and nobody seems to have any clue. Please help


Cj Stalling When Idling


Stalling Out


3 Answers



April, 2, 2010 AT 8:06 AM

Does this only occur at idle? The aToyota Idle Air Control valves are prone to sticking due to their design and can cause what you describe. Otherwise you will need to test for spark and fuel pressure when it wont start to see what is missing



April, 2, 2010 AT 9:19 AM

It has never stalled while in motion, but it will act up a little at speed if I'm in traffic. Sometimes if I'm going 20-30, if I let my foot off the gas, RPM wiill jump up a little on its own, then drop back down. It never has a problem starting except for the one time immediately after it stalled. Seemed like the engine was just flooded? So you don't think it would be the ECT sensor, EGR valve, etc?

I'm just trying to get a better idea before springing 300-400 for the IACV.




April, 3, 2010 AT 8:23 AM

I have had fairly good luck removing the IACV and cleaning it out with carb cleaner and a soft brush. Let it soak so as to break loose the carbon. Have even carefully used a small flat blade screwdriver to scrape it clean internally. If you try this and get some kind of change out of it, you will at least know you are headed in the right direction. Especially since it only seems to do it at closed throttle times. ECTs usually fail no matter what the engine rpm is. As far as EGR foes, you could try unhooking the vacuum line to the valve and see if it fixes it. Toyotas usually have a problem with EGR working though, not really sticking on

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