Starts fine until engine warms up, error code Camshaft Sensor

Tiny
JAYSIMON02
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 130,000 MILES
My car starts fine when during a cold start but if I leave it running for a while and cut it off, It will crank but not start. I cranked it up, left it running for 10mins and cut it off. It crank but did not start. No electricity was flowing to the coil pack so I ran a diagnostic test as advised. The error code shot back was for the Camshaft Sensor and Coolant Temperature. One wire for the coolant temperature harness was corroded away right at the connector. Could this cause my no start when hot problem. I have replaced the camshaft sensor twice and had the exact same results, (cranks and starts fine till engine warms up). If it is the camshaft sensor, should I have replaced it with a brand new one? Both of the ones I replaced where off of used Eclipses of the same trim as mine just different year models of the same generation.
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Friday, January 24th, 2014 AT 9:25 PM

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Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Saturday, January 25th, 2014 AT 6:38 AM

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