Servicing driver side transaxle - replacing transaxle in transmission

Tiny
ALONEII
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
CAR: Honda 200 Accord, V6, Auto transmission, sedan

Experience: 40 yrs auto & mechanical although not on Hondas.

After replacing boots, ball joints - Pressing axle into transmission - I'm curious & concerned about process of and amount of force required to properly reinsert axle (cv joint cup axle stub). Into transmission.

Issue/Question:

In process of replacing CV Boots (Inner & outer), upper & lower ball joints, also turning rotors (both sides).

Present state:

Driver side - ready to reinsert transmission side cv joint cup tranny axle stub into transmission. Have replaced aforementioned parts, inspected shaft & cv joint all is well. At present, have axle stub partially inserted into driver's side of transmission. Have encountered the need for considerable force to allow me to continue to press axle stub into transmission (currently axle has slide about half an inch to an inch but does not allow me to push further without what appears to be considerable force - ie firmly hit the axle on the rotor end with a hammer) Is this normal? Alignment of the cv joint cup splines in transmission.?

Issue/Questions: When removing axle I didn't mark or otherwise make location indicators/note when removed the transaxle & inner cv joint cup/axle stub from tranny. Now reinserting cup & mini shaft into tranny.

I'm assuming axle shaft rotational location is not position dependent (other than merely splines aligned to allow shaft to be completely seated in the tranny - not like properly aligning a distributor where there is a 'specific' spot/alignment? - Ie. I can insert axle shaft without any concern or need to match specific location/spline in a specific location in transmission receptacle. Am I correct?

Second question/concern: As previously stated, inspected & cleaned transmission side of transaxle's cup & mini shaft's spines- all is fine no damage or noticeable wear whatsoever. I didn't notice any sort of alignment keyway or positioning determinant. However, as/when I attempt to slide transaxle-cv joint cup-mini axle side into transmission process appears (to me - and I'm unfamiliar w-Honda front wheel cars & thus this process- specifically, the normal amount of force required to reinsert shaft; although, I've worked on SAAB front wheel drive cars for 30+ yrs they slide in easily and the shaft bolts into place unlike this Honda)

Should this process require hitting the transaxle/rotor end firmly with say a 5 lb hammer/small sledge a couple of times to force axle so the retaining ring is in a 'locked position'?

There is a what appears to be a 'ring retainer' on the inner portion of the tranny cv joint axle cup's axle shaft stub. I assume the axle slides in freely for the first inch or so - until it reaches the ring then as you attempt to continue to fully seat the axle into its proper location/depth the ring is forced to 'collapse' briefly until it clears/slips into a 'locking position' in the tranny at which time the shaft can/will rotate by hand as needed to allow an alignment of the splines to align and then continue to be pressed/slid/pushed completely into axles's fully inserted proper operating/driving location. Is my assumption correct?

I assume once the axle is slid to the point where the retainer ring is inside/beyond the 'locking point' and the splines aligned to allow continued insertion very little pressure is required (meaning the hammer blows/firm pressure is only required to get the retainer ring to collapse slightly thereby allowing shaft to slide in to its normal seated position). Furthermore, that the axle will then need to be turned until the splines will then align thereby allowing the axle to be pushed farther in until properly and fully seated. Correct?

Do I appear to understand this process? Am I correct? Or, does what appears to be a considerable force (the need to hit with hammer to drive axle in) an indicator there is a problem or that there is an alignment issue I need to understand and respond to immediately by properly aligning axle? I don't wish to damage axle or transmission. Am concerned something may be wrong.

I will need the torque specs for all of the related bolts/nuts etc. Where can I find a complete list of the torque specs for the front end, including sub frame? (I replaced a struts and bushings etc which I wish to torque properly before considering the job complete.)

Thank you.

Alex
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Thursday, December 18th, 2014 AT 9:38 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
2CARPROS MIKE
  • ADMIN
The snap ring on the end of the axle is not allowing the axle to enter all the way into the transmission. Remove the snap ring from the axle and compress it a little and put it back on the axle. Try rotating the axle while inserting it. It should not require a lot of force to get it in completely.
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Thursday, December 18th, 2014 AT 10:36 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I agree with Mike. The only thing I may do differently is to replace the snap ring.

Let me know if you get it.

Joe
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Thursday, December 18th, 2014 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
ALONEII
  • MEMBER
Ok. I will remove snap ring then either compress it or replace it.

However, the part of my question regarding axle/ spline alignment & insertion was not addressed or answered. Please address it. Will the splines automatically align thereby allow me to completely insert & properly seat axle OR is the a special /specific rotational alignment I need to concern myself with or can it be slid in anyway the splines allow?

Also where can I find torque specs for the front end bolts & nuts.

Thank you
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Thursday, December 18th, 2014 AT 12:19 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS MIKE
  • ADMIN
The splines don't have a special way to line up, when the transmission input splines matches up to the splines of the axle it is good to go. We will have to look up the torque specs and get back to you shortly. I believe it is 134 lbs.
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Thursday, December 18th, 2014 AT 1:57 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi:

I am going to list all front end torque specs. If I miss something you are looking for, let me know.
Ft. Lbs.
Radius rod flange bolts 119
Radius rod lock nut 40
Front Spindle nut 181
Tie rod lock nut 33
Wheel Lug nuts 80
Lower ball joint nut 40
Upper ball joint 32
Brake caliper bolts 81
Lower control arm pivot bolt 47
Stabilizer mounting bolt 16
Strut assembly shaft nut 22
Strut bolt pinch bolt 32
Strut fork to control arm bolt 47
Upper strut mounting nut 37
Upper control arm bushing bolt 37
Sub frame bolts 76

The sub frame bolt torque is when you install new bolts. I always recommend that you recheck them after about a week or 500 miles.

Let me know if this helps. Also, double check to make sure the axles are exactly the same. First, get the spindle out of the way and pop the axle back into the inner joint. It might take a bit of pushing, but it will pop in.

Joe
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Thursday, December 18th, 2014 AT 7:47 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
THIS IS THE WAY I HAVE DONE MANY OF THEM
IF U REPLACED THE BOOTS ARE U SURE THE RETAINING RINGS HAVE BEEN CRIMPED PROPERLY SO THEY WON'T LEAK ANY GREASE. U NEED THE CAR ON A LIFT REALLY.
SLIDE THE AXLE INTO THE TRANS UNTIL THE SNAP RING BOTTOMS OUT. USE A LONG PRY BAR (3 FT.) WITH A HANDLE ON IT. THE SHAFT ON THE PRY BAR IS NOT ROUND BUT SQUARE THIS MAKES IT EASIER TO PRY THE AXLE HUB INTO THE (NO HAMMERS!) TRANS. JUST PUT THE PRY BAR TO THE FRAME AND THE AXLE HUB(MAKE SURE U DON'T PINCH THE BOOT WITH THE PRY BAR!) THEN JUST USE THE PRY BAR TO FULLY SEAT THE AXLE HUB. U MAY HAVE TO TURN THE AXLE A LITTLE TO GET TO SEAT PROPERLY THEN JUST REPOSITION THE PRY BAR AND TRY AGAIN.(LEAVE THE CAR IN NEUTRAL WHILE U ARE WORKING ON IT.)
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Saturday, December 20th, 2014 AT 7:08 AM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MEMBER
DID U SEAT THIS AXLE YET?
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Sunday, December 21st, 2014 AT 6:38 PM

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