1997 Saturn SL1 Saturn SL 1 Stall/Start Problem

Tiny
SKY SANTIAGO
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 SATURN SL1
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 14,500 MILES
Was driving my SL 1 today going around 35 mph and the car stalled and then recovered. Within a few seconds it died and I had to drive it off to the side of the road, after which it would turn over but not start. After letting it sit for about an hour or more, I went back and it started up and ran fine to take it a few blocks to park it at a home. After letting the car sit for a time, we decided to start it and let it run to see if it would stall again while sitting idle. After a few minutes it did, and repeated the same symptom in another test of stalling but then recovering itself.
It then was hard to start again, turning over but not starting.

From doing some reading, I suspect it may be the crankshaft position sensor that is failing after getting hot, but my father also suggests it could be the fuel filter or pump. I guess the sensor is a common problem on Saturn's.

Because I don't have a lot of money, I thought to try to replace the sensor with the help of my dad and then have a mechanic go at it if it doesn't solve it. The sensor part is cheap and perhaps easy to replace? Is my thinking.

Just curious if anyone can tell me what they think from the symptoms I am reporting is most likely the issue.

Thanks for your help.
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Sunday, July 25th, 2010 AT 12:42 AM

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Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
NO START - ENGINE CRANKS OKAY
NOTE:Check battery condition, engine cranking speed and fuel supply before performing the following tests.

General Inspection
Ensure proper starting procedure is being used.
Visually check vacuum hoses for splits, kinks and proper connections, as shown on underhood Vehicle Emission Control Information label. Check ignition wires for cracking, hardness and proper connections at both distributor cap and spark plugs. Ensure each plug wire has less than 12,000 ohms resistance.
Remove spark plugs. Check and replace as necessary. Remove distributor cap and check for moisture, dust, cracks, burns and arcing to ground.
Try to turn distributor shaft by hand. Drive gear pin may be broken. In very cold temperatures, ensure oil is proper viscosity and not contaminated by gasoline.
Ignition System
Install scan tool. Perform On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check. See ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC (OBD) SYSTEM CHECK. Check TP sensor (stuck wide open) and Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. ECT sensor should read close to ambient temperature. Check if injector Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are active. If DTC(s) are stored, diagnose DTC. See the TESTS W/CODES article. If injector codes are not present, go to next step.
If DTC P1635 is present, diagnose DTC. See the TESTS W/CODES article. If DTC P1635 is not present, go to next step.
If any IC related DTC is present, diagnose DTC. See the TESTS W/CODES article. If DTC is not present, go to next step.
If any EGR related DTC is present, diagnose DTC. See the TESTS W/CODES article. If DTC is not present, go to next step.
Using scan tool, monitor engine RPM (7X CKP reference pulse) while cranking engine. If RPM is detected, go to next step. If RPM is not detected, go to step 12).
If scan tool 7X counter reads more than 100, check spark at cylinders No. 2 and 4. If scan tool 7X counter reads 100 counts or less, go to step 10).
If spark is present, check for fouled spark plugs. If spark plugs are okay, go to FUEL SYSTEM. If spark is not present, go to next step.
Check Electronic Ignition (EI) system fuse or voltage to fuse with ignition on. See Fig. 1. If fuse is okay and voltage is present, go to next step. If fuse is faulty or voltage is not present, replace fuse or repair circuit.
Disconnect Electronic Ignition (EI) module. Turn ignition on. Using a test light, check voltage between EI module terminal "A" and fuse block. See Fig. 1. If voltage is present, check EI module connector tightness. If connector is okay, EI module is faulty. If voltage is not present, repair open in Pink wire (circuit No. 1039) between EI module and fuse block.
Check for spark on cylinders No. 2 and 4. If spark is present on both wires, go to FUEL SYSTEM. If spark is not present on any of the spark plug wires, go to next step. If spark is present on only one wire, check spark at opposing cylinder. If spark is present at opposing cylinder, replace spark plug wire. If spark is not present at opposing cylinder, replace EI module.
Check for proper ground to EI module. Check battery voltage at EI module terminal "A" (Pink wire). See Fig. 1. If voltage is present, check EI module connector tightness. If connector is okay, EI module is faulty. If voltage is not present, repair open in Pink wire (circuit No. 1039) between EI module and fuse block.
Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connector J3. See Fig. 1. Using DVOM, check resistance between PCM connector J3, terminals D13 (7X ref hi circuit) and D14 (7X ref lo circuit). Resistance should be 700-900 ohms. If resistance is as specified, go to next step. If resistance is not as specified, go to step 14).
Set DVOM to AC scale. Connect DVOM between PCM connector J3, terminals D13 (7X ref hi circuit) and D14 (7X ref lo circuit). See Fig. 1. Crank engine. DVOM should read 200 millivolts. If reading is as specified, check PCM connector tightness. If reading is not as specified, replace Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor.
Check for continuity of 7X ref hi circuit (Yellow wire) and 7X ref lo circuit (Purple wire). See Fig. 1. Repair as necessary. If continuity is present, check circuits for short to ground or voltage. Repair as necessary. If circuits are okay, go to next step.
Remove CKP sensor. Check CKP sensor resistance. Resistance should be 700-900 ohms. If resistance is not as specified, replace CKP sensor. If resistance is as specified, go to next step.
Check if CKP sensor is still magnetized. If sensor is not still magnetized, replace CKP sensor. If sensor is still magnetized, check for poor or intermittent connection at sensor connector.

Fuel System

Install Fuel Pressure Gauge (SA9127E). Turn ignition on. Fuel pressure reading should be 38-44 psi (2.7-3.1 kg/cm2 ). If fuel pressure is as specified, see the TESTS W/O CODES article. If fuel pressure is not specified, go to next step.
Turn ignition off. Using a test light connected to ground, probe fuel pump fuse in fuse block. See Fig. 2. Turn ignition on. Test light should illuminate for 2 seconds, then turn off. If test light illuminates, check for open in fuel pump circuit (Gray wire) or ground circuit (Black wire). If circuits are okay, check fuel pump. If test light does not illuminate, go to next step.
Turn ignition off. Repeat test with test light connected to fuel pump fuse. If test light does not illuminates, check for open or short to ground in Dark Green/White wire between fuel pump relay and PCM. See Fig. 2. If circuit is okay, check PCM connector tightness or for faulty PCM. If test light illuminates, go to next step.
Remove fuel pump relay. Using a test light connected to ground, probe Red wire terminal between fuel pump relay and fuse block. See Fig. 2. If test light illuminates, check fuel pump relay connector tightness, for faulty fuel pump relay ground or for faulty fuel pump relay. If test light does not illuminate, check for faulty I/P BATT fuse. If fuse is okay, check and repair open in Red wire between fuel pump relay and fuse block.
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Sunday, July 25th, 2010 AT 5:13 AM

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