Saturn Engine won't start. Electrical problem?

Tiny
MARZ82
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 SATURN SL2
  • 1.9L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 202,000 MILES
Yes it's got 202,000 miles but still runs like a champ. Think it is time to junk it but will give it one more shot. Drove to church just fine got out of church won't start. It cranks but start. Turn the key on all lights on dash flicker then stay on. No chime, radio or gauges when key is on. I don't hear the fuel pump. All fuses ok and swapped relays. Got spark on number 1. And new battery, plus hooked up to wife's car to be sure of that. I'm thinking the computer is shot. Any other ideas of what this could be? If it is the ecm, if I get a junk yard one, is it just a swap out or would it still need to be reprogrammed?
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Monday, August 24th, 2015 AT 3:24 AM

2 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Monday, August 24th, 2015 AT 4:51 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Just to add to this one It sounds like you could open terminal on your 68 way connector to your inside fuse box. It would be the connector closest to the front of your car on the back side of inside fuse box. Its on the drivers side just in front of your center console. Its a big red wire it feeds power to fuel pump transmission actuators alot different things. Over time all the heat running thru the connector bends the terminal end open. Causing a loose connection the first one I saw puzzled me at first. But now when I see anything that sounds like it I check that terminal its number like terminal F5 on the back of the connector I believe. Sometimes the connector gets so hot it starts to melt even. Let me know what you find. Also sometimes unplugging and plugging and plugging in your chime module helps issues like that. Also check the chime module for corroded terminals I have seen that before. The chime module is in that same area as that connector.
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Saturday, August 29th, 2015 AT 8:31 AM

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