Not getting Fuel

Tiny
AMARTINFL
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 4.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
Vehicle will not start. Parts already replaced within past three to six months : Battery, ECM, alternator, starter, fuel relay, fuel pump, fuel injectors, distributor, rear end and general tune-up work done

Was running fine, did hit a bump that jumbled new speakers and caused a short so disconnected them and parked vehicle for a few hours, came out and it would not start. It seemed to not be getting fuel. So started at basic knowing some of these things have nothing to do with fuel. Fuel filter, spark plugs, battery, alternator, fuel relay, fuel pump changed twice, fuel injectors changed out. Still not getting fuel. After changing fuel pump not hearing it come on and did not hear the first one installed come on either. Can spray starter fluid in the carburetor and it starts but the minute you stop spraying it cuts off.
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Tuesday, September 6th, 2016 AT 10:24 AM

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Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can only be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem is not present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That is what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the positive terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Tuesday, September 6th, 2016 AT 12:42 PM

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