No Start and Instrument Cluster Out

Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
The car will not start, no clicking, jumper cables on. All lights work except instrument cluster. Only the oil pressure light comes on when the key is turned on the instrument cluster. The key transponder light does not come on. I have recently replaced the alternator. I have read about the "automatic shutdown relay", but do not know if it will cause instrument cluster issue?
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 6:37 AM

28 Replies

Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Can you give us the sub model of this vehicle also please? Trying to find the correct wiring diagram for this car.
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Automatic shutdown switch usually only controls the fuel pump on a lot of vehicles, it is like a safety switch to stop fuel flow.
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 10:31 AM
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
Touring (Convertible).
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
OK first thing. You are going to have to go through every fuse box and panel in the car. Under the hood and under the dash board, there is most like a fuse or a couple gone. Check there first with a test light if you have one, key ON, check for power on both sides of each fuse, especially any PCM, ECM, CRANK, type fuses.
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 2:32 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
And here is the Auto Shut Down Relay diagram. You can check this for power as well. The ECM grounds this Relay on the DarkBlue/Voilet wire causing power on all the circuits highlighted in yellow. This will transfer power to Fuse # 24 and 25 in the fuse panel ( left front inner fenderwell). You may have to dig alittle to find this panel. As you can see in the diagram fuse #14 is hot at all times. So all those Red/Tan wires should be hot at that panel all the time. Let us know what you find.
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 2:45 PM
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
Checked all of the fuses and found #19 20 amp Start(fuel) blown. Replaced it and instrument cluster and radio work except for the immobilizer light (tried both keys). Still does not crank. Also not noted before the thermometer was at -40 before the fuse change but reads correctly after. Now have check engine light but does not read on OBD2 Tester. With Ignition on ODO reads NO BUS.
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 3:16 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
NO BUS means no communication with the ECM, I'm looking into the wiring diagrams right now. Are you sure this isn't an issue with a security system?
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 3:29 PM
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
The car ran fine yesterday and was parked under a carport. Went out this morning with this condition. I have tried both keys and the remotes (remotes work). The key/SKIM cannot lose the PIN code, especially not both keys. I do not understand why the immobilizer light is not coming on. If a key is properly programmed it comes on and goes out in 4 sec. If it is not the correct key the light stays illuminated. (Former locksmith). So the NO BUS and the Immobilizer light must be related. I assume the SKIM gets power from the ECM.
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Yes most systems are powered up by the ECM. There is still something from stopping the power feed to the ECM here though. Do you have the means to test for power in different places? (Ie a 12volt test light)
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Heres the Data wiring diagram of the Immobilizer, Its actually on the steering column. Are there any lose wires or anything funky with the ignition switch itself that you notice. Because the Data feed for the Immobilizer goes straight to the Body Control Module which I'm sure is powered up by the ECM. That could be the reason for no light condition
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Wednesday, October 19th, 2016 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
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I will open the steering column this afternoon but there is no evident wiring issues or signs of the column being taken apart before.
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Thursday, October 20th, 2016 AT 4:22 AM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Well you might want to check this Auto shut down relay, it looks easy to test, its in that fuse panel on the left inner fender. It should just feed power to Fuse # 24 and 25 with the key ON. They are both 20amp fuses. You could put a test light on them and atleast know if the relay is being powered up or not.
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Thursday, October 20th, 2016 AT 8:31 AM
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
I checked #24 and #25 with ignition on and off, no light. I swapped with another relay to double check. I believe I found the ECM Bus and checked pink to drk blue no light. I was unable to find Security connector on the column and have ran out of daylight. I expected it to connect to the SKIM but there was no pink wire there. I now remember why I quit being a locksmith.
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Thursday, October 20th, 2016 AT 4:02 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Well power to those two fuses is a problem, can check to see if you have power at fuse number fourteen near that inner fender, its a thirty amp. Swapping another relay probably wont do anything at this point. The ECM grounds the shut off relay and that powers up a bunch of other circuits, so we need to see why the ECM is not powering up. The ECM also provides the ground for the Starter Relay. That is why you're not get any crank either. And when you check these fuses, make sure you either take them out and really check them or put a multi-meter across them and check for continuity.
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Thursday, October 20th, 2016 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
Forgot to add I checked number fourteen and had power. I checked the fuse with a light continuity checker.
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Thursday, October 20th, 2016 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Okay, that is power to the auto-shut down. The problem is I'm having to look at two different wiring diagrams because they have an early production model and a later model. So there are different schematics depending on this.
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Thursday, October 20th, 2016 AT 5:58 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Okay, we are just going to have to jump back and forth a bit. Fuse number twenty three should be Hot with Key in RUN or START. This power from the ignition switch to the ECM, Fuel pump relay and one other circuit. We may have to go by the VIN number tomorrow, so I can see exactly which model I am looking at here. It seems they changed some of the ECM harness with this production change.
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Thursday, October 20th, 2016 AT 6:10 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
Also need to figure out why number nineteen was blown, There may be a short to ground somewhere here. That fuse did not pop for no reason.
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Thursday, October 20th, 2016 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • EXPERT
I did a little more research here, I am thinking you may want to have a look behind these fuse panels, both, the one under the driver side dash and the one under the hood if you are up to it. They can get corroded underneath and we need to find why that fuse blew. Check for loose harness plugs under the dash as well, this can be a problem on this vehicle.

We also need to make sure the ignition switch is sending power to the ECM in RUN an START position. So to start with I am sending some diagrams of the ignition switch and what wires to check for power at certain key positions. This should not be too difficult, I am labeling everything for you.
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Friday, October 21st, 2016 AT 3:48 AM
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
Well we have discovered the answer but the mystery deepens. There was no fuse in number twenty three. I put a new fuse in and everything works perfectly. I was meticulous in my removal and installation of the fuses. I have no idea how or why that fuse would be missing. How would someone be so that savvy to remove it? How did the other one blow? This is insane. All I can say is thank you for your help.
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Friday, October 21st, 2016 AT 3:08 PM

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