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Instrument Cluster Dash Light Does Not Come On All The Time

Tiny
REALFUTBALL
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Hi, I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring (2.4L, 4-cyl) and my dash lights keep going out. It will come on sometimes then flicker in and out or I will turn on my headlights and it will not come on at all so the speedometer, tachometer and fuel gauges are not lit, but I can see mileage, drive and engine lights. I have read and heard that its the inverter located in the instrument cluster that is most likely the faulty part here (under designed on Chrysler's par). I have ordered a used instrument cluster. If I do a direct swap of the instrument clusters, will I be able to retain my original miles or will I have the miles that are stored from the used part? Would it be more appropriate to try and remove just the inverter from the used cluster and try to reinstall it into my current cluster?

Thanks,
Joe
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Wednesday, April 29th, 2015 AT 3:44 PM

32 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
I would just replace the entire cluster. As far as the mileage, it will stay the same.
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Wednesday, April 29th, 2015 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
REALFUTBALL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Jacobandnickolas, thank you for the response. So are you saying the mileage is independent of the cluster unit? If I replace the entire cluster, the new (used/replaced) cluster unit will calibrate to that of my car (rather than keep the mileage of the car it was pulled from)?

Thanks
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Thursday, April 30th, 2015 AT 11:02 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,133 POSTS
Yes, that's correct.
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Sunday, May 3rd, 2015 AT 7:17 PM
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.7L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
The car will not start, no clicking, jumper cables on. All lights work except instrument cluster. Only the oil pressure light comes on when the key is turned on the instrument cluster. The key transponder light does not come on. I have recently replaced the alternator. I have read about the "automatic shutdown relay", but do not know if it will cause instrument cluster issue?
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,099 POSTS
Can you give us the sub model of this vehicle also please? Trying to find the correct wiring diagram for this car.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,099 POSTS
Automatic shutdown switch usually only controls the fuel pump on a lot of vehicles, it is like a safety switch to stop fuel flow.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Touring (Convertible).
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,099 POSTS
Okay, first thing. You are going to have to go through every fuse box and panel in the car. Under the hood and under the dash board, there is most like a fuse or a couple gone. Check there first with a test light if you have one, key on, check for power on both sides of each fuse, especially any PCM, ECM, CRANK, type fuses.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
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And here is the Auto Shut Down Relay diagram. You can check this for power as well. The ECM grounds this Relay on the dark blue/violet wire causing power on all the circuits highlighted in yellow. This will transfer power to Fuse # 24 and 25 in the fuse panel (left front inner fender well). You may have to dig a little to find this panel. As you can see in the diagram fuse #14 is hot at all times. So all those red/tan wires should be hot at that panel all the time. Let us know what you find.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Checked all of the fuses and found #19 20 amp Start (fuel) blown. Replaced it and instrument cluster and radio work except for the immobilizer light (tried both keys). Still does not crank. Also not noted before the thermometer was at -40 before the fuse change but reads correctly after. Now have check engine light but does not read on OBD2 Tester. With Ignition on ODO reads NO BUS.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
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NO BUS means no communication with the ECM, I'm looking into the wiring diagrams right now. Are you sure this isn't an issue with a security system?
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
The car ran fine yesterday and was parked under a carport. Went out this morning with this condition. I have tried both keys and the remotes (remotes work). The key/SKIM cannot lose the PIN code, especially not both keys. I do not understand why the immobilizer light is not coming on. If a key is properly programmed it comes on and goes out in 4 seconds. If it is not the correct key the light stays illuminated. (Former locksmith). So the NO BUS and the Immobilizer light must be related. I assume the SKIM gets power from the ECM.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
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Yes, most systems are powered up by the ECM. There is still something from stopping the power feed to the ECM here though. Do you have the means to test for power in different places? (Ie a 12volt test light)
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
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Here is the data wiring diagram of the Immobilizer, Its actually on the steering column. Are there any lose wires or anything funky with the ignition switch itself that you notice. Because the Data feed for the Immobilizer goes straight to the Body Control Module which I'm sure is powered up by the ECM. That could be the reason for no light condition.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I will open the steering column this afternoon, but there is no evident wiring issues or signs of the column being taken apart before.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
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Well you might want to check this auto shut down relay, it looks easy to test, it is in that fuse panel on the left inner fender. It should just feed power to Fuse # 24 and 25 with the key ON. They are both 20amp fuses. You could put a test light on them and at least know if the relay is being powered up or not.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I checked #24 and #25 with ignition on and off, no light. I swapped with another relay to double check. I believe I found the ECM Bus and checked pink to drk blue no light. I was unable to find Security connector on the column and have ran out of daylight. I expected it to connect to the SKIM but there was no pink wire there. I now remember why I quit being a locksmith.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
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Well power to those two fuses is a problem, can check to see if you have power at fuse number fourteen near that inner fender, its a thirty amp. Swapping another relay probably wont do anything at this point. The ECM grounds the shut off relay and that powers up a bunch of other circuits, so we need to see why the ECM is not powering up. The ECM also provides the ground for the Starter Relay. That is why you're not get any crank either. And when you check these fuses, make sure you either take them out and really check them or put a multi-meter across them and check for continuity.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PANHANDLEMIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Forgot to add; I checked number fourteen and had power. I checked the fuse with a light continuity checker.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
AL514
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Okay, that is power to the auto-shut down. The problem is I'm having to look at two different wiring diagrams because they have an early production model and a later model. So there are different schematics depending on this.
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Saturday, November 23rd, 2019 AT 3:02 PM (Merged)

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