OK, first thing I would look at is the Distributor Cap & Rotor, when was last time replaced. Look inside is there corrosion in the contacts if so would replace along with rotor. While there if can have someone turn engine over and watch to see if rotor spins, if doesn't then most likely will need new distributor.
Other possibilities -
If Check Engine Light is On
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
IABV or IAC - Idle Air Bypass Valve or Idle Air Control Valve
The engine needs to be at normal operating temperature for testing.
The self test connector is on the drivers side inner fender well. Check Pic for shape of connector. Then hook up a jumper wire as shown in the diagram below. Turn your key forward to the RUN position (KOEO, key on, engine off), and after a few seconds the codes will begin to flash through Engine Light or if you have hooked up a voltmeter, the needle on the voltmeter will indicate the digits of the trouble codes in sweeps of the needle. Record all codes and identify them as KOEO codes.
Code will be shown in blinks of the light or sweeps of the needle.
2 digit Codes
1 fast flash, with 2 sec pause, then 2 fast flashes is code 12
2 fast flashes, with two sec pause, then 3 quick flashes is code 23.
3 digit codes
1 fast flashe, 2 sec pause, 3 fast flashes, 2 sec pause, then 2 fast flashes is code 132
If there are more there will be a 4 second pause before the next code starts.
After the KOEO codes finish. Continuous codes follow after a 6 to 9 second pause, a fast flash, and another 6 to 9 second pause. Write these codes as continuous codes. Then remove key and the jumper wire.
You won't be able to perform Key On Engine Running test(KOER) at this time.
Sunday, September 18th, 2016 AT 1:48 PM